Leaderboard

Just published this video in memory of Sailorman aka Jim Slauson who sadly was lost this year during the EC. If you are not aware, please read this article.

Sometimes, shooting a screw through your hull is the only way to go. I especially love it when I’m cutting that hole in for the Anderson bailer. When asked why I did it, I told people it was to let the water out!

Put another way, if you glass the outside with cloth then you dont need tape on the chine. The cloth does the job. The keel needs 2 layers so overlapping the cloth does the job. Any stainless piano hinge will do the job. Short screws to attach. You might have to grind the tips off to keep them poking through or use longer screws and... drill, screw, remove screws, cut and gring them down, reinstall. Ive been wanting to try those rubber hatch closures lately. Or a hasp and staple latch. Maybe like this. https://images.app.goo.gl/yHu2tkTiAtrBq9Ny6

I have Great admiration for anyone who would set off on a Watertribe event. You have to be brave just to start. Getting into a boat, takes upper body strength, and that takes fitness. Even the best ladder, in a cold rough sea, would be a challenge. Retracting the centerboard once heaved to can settle the boat. The board may have been up on purpose. Kindest Regards

I refer you to this previous post.

Thanks for the pics. Looking good from here. On the chine joint we only specify a single layer of 10oz tape because the fiberglass reinforcement only needs to be as strong as the thickness of plywood it's reinforcing. So in the case of the chine joint a single layer is sufficient because the side panel is only 6mm plywood. In the case of the keel joint, we are joining two layers of 12mm plywood so we use 2 layers of 10oz tape across the joint due to the added strength needed to match the strength of the plywood. On the outside of the boat the required glass is the same as the inside so when you sheath the exterior in 10oz glass all that is required is a single layer over the chine (don't forget to make it smooth and rounded for the glass to wrap the corner well). When you get to the keel line, overlap the keel by about 1 1/2" this way when you glass the other side and do the same overlap of the keel you now have the required 2 layers of glass on the exterior of the keel joint.

Many thanks for the link to the video. We are nearing that point, and a video is worth 1000 words. I think we will glass the deck before tackling the hull, to get the glassing mojo warmed up. Currently finishing making drawers and some storage ideas for the laserett, and the ever glamorous rebuilding the head pump. Graham and I discussed an end plate for the rudder so I layed up a 1 inch thick fiberglass foot for the rudder with the intent controlling the hi an lo pressure water flow, like the current trend of winglets on airplanes. Cabin top is nearing complete, insulated deck and cabin “should “ help with condensation. I keep delaying applying primer in the cabin, want to make durn sure all my ducks are in order before I start that phase.

Well, the cabin is coming together, the insulation is in place an looking good. I am in a quandary on the hatch on the cabin top, originally I wanted a butterfly hatch simulated, I mean it would look like a butterfly hatch when closed and open similarly to a regular hatch, but after visualizing the cabin I am leaning towards a “store bought “ hatch. One of the funs in boat building is you have choices! My remedial hatch frame is completed, and the one I built backwards sure looks good, other than being...... well who hasn’t built 2 lefts an no rights. Glassed the rudders ( a big un an a little un). The core is Airex PXC is super strong, light, rigid, waterproof, chemical proof, nuclear weapon resistant and the absolute work of the devil! I sanded the mill marks and rounded some areas....... I will be scratching for a week! Never imagined it was that nasty to work with.