Let me start with Interlux 2 part primer is AMAZING, tough as nails, and goes on well though stinky. Brightsides is ok, but you have to have a perfect dew point for application for best results, when I lived in Georgia we had a small window every afternoon. This was applied over epoxy that had been sanded with 80 grit and was just fine.
Most of my recent experience on restoring boats and some new builds has been using Petite EzPoxy. It's pennies on the dollar compared to high end two parts, applies well over west system, system 3, B&B epoxy, and even bare or bare wood with oils (old motorboat). Buildup is high and sanding is VERY easy. The Petite reps say Interlux or Petite two part primer is fine if your worried about a tough coat on outside of boat, followed by one part Ezpoxy color of your choice..
West marine one part paints are made by Petite as well, but are more limited on colors. My favorite thing with the Ezpoxy is ease of sanding, and ease of touch up due to wear and tear. Also, the one part primer/paint stays good for a long time, and if needed to make it flow better it it's gotten old add a little bit of Xylene.
For boat bottoms that aren't staying in the water I'm a fan of Graphite epoxy mix, wet sanded for final coat. I didn't use to think that could make a difference, but doing blades and bottom with that added noticeable speed. I have in past talked to Interlux reps about the Teflon bottom paint, but its made to inhibit sea life a little bit, and while slippery they agreed that graphite epoxy mix is better, and more bang for your buck.
Quick notes to think about:
1) Spend time with high power light, and some epoxy with easily sandible filler before you paint. A little filling and fairing will save you money on redoing paint coats later. Use a light colored marker to circle where you need to fill and touch up.
2) Brushes: Jen manufacturing, poly brush, foam brush, dense foam, plastic stifner (Wal-Mart and homedepot cheap foam brush packs do not have the stiffeners).
3) Roller: Wooster 1/8 foam roller is perfect for most paints, and tipping afterwords.
4) Tape: 3m crape tape, or smooth. This is perfect for doing small turns, a little more pricey but worth it.
5) Sanding: 3m roll sand paper, foam hand sander.. Even through duck works not cheapest, but hand sanding is not hard for final stuff, and will make it perfect. I will NEVER use a power sander for finishing on a personal boat again, except for initial sand on epoxy maybe.
6) Paint colors: Marshall cove paint Bainbridge, next to Petite this is amazing paint, and you can send in a color sample and they can mix! Fire engine red, beautiful teal, you name it they can do it. A little but more pricey then Petite but worth it for final coats for custom color.
7) Skinning: Keeping varnish/paint from skinning in can use Bloxegen. Usually for one part I just add and mix well a little Xylene.