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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/24/2018 in all areas

  1. Many thanks to all that participated and for all the shared information and suggestions. Mick n RickZ
    1 point
  2. I used Teak rub rails on my Lapwing. I figured I would wait for the worn spots to show me where I needed chafe gear. I am still waiting.
    1 point
  3. I just got back from sailing on a Cornish Shrimper in Maine. I spent a week sailing (and motoring) from Portland to Boothbay Harbor with a good friend. If there was motivation to finish, it's amplified now. While the rigs are not similar, the small cuddy has some similarities and living on it for a week allowed me to ponder what I liked and didn't. I've decided to just run teak rub rails. The cost of the SS and it's hammer like qualities have made me decide to use teak. Alan used Starboard for a boat he was working on at the messabout, and Jay used a commercial rub rail. Both of these are probably the best practical solution, but my Sea Pearl has a thin teak rail that has seen it's share of hot landings and has held up well so I'm going to buy an 11' teak board today and rip it into four pieces and hopefully have enough left over for the deck toe rail. I wish I had paid closer attention to Alan mounting it. I think there was some screws and plugs into stringers, but also some screws from the cabin into the backside. I keep saying I'm 3/4 done, but I don't seem to be getting to 25/32s. I'm getting used to the idea that seeing the water this year isn't very realistic.
    1 point
  4. 1 point
  5. I must disagree with you Archie - that is actually a very elegant solution for a situation that could lead to some very kludgy installations. Nicely implemented as well.
    1 point
  6. I added this to a skinned kayak. Perhaps inelegant but it works and is adjustable and removable. Fits between the keel and the central deck stringer. The only change to the kayak frame is a small wood strip glued to the top of the keel. Further explanation available if necessary.
    1 point

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