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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/12/2017 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    I have been designing the Mathew Flinders for myself for more than a decade off and on, long before we did the Mk3's. What I was trying to achieve was to design the ultimate small voyaging boat that could easily be trailed behind a reasonable size vehicle and yet be be capable of crossing any ocean. She had to be built tough and live well for two people with room for a third person. She is not intended to replace the mk3's as they are great boats, but for anyone who wants to go up to the next level. I went through hundreds of iterations till I finally got it and I am very pleased with final outcome. As you can imagine I am really excited to see her come to life with Jay and Carol. I started at 22 feet and it finally grew to 23'4" as I massaged the ergonomics. When Jay ordered the boat, I did a lot of thinking about his comfort plus I had some interest from people who are a lot larger than me so at the last minute I scaled her by 5% to give 6'4' headroom with the final length at 24'6". If anyone has to have 6'6" headroom they can raise the cabin sides. The trailing weight will be around 4000" depending on how they load it. I am still planning to build the 23'4" version. One of the things that I worked hard on was the range of stability. She has positive stability to 180 degrees which more than meets the EU ISO rules for ocean sailing. I have attached one of the many stability curves that I made with the red and blue curves showing a best and worst case vertical center of gravity. That is to allow for builders to make their own modifications and still meet the high range of stability. I was also able to calculate the Flicka A well known small cruising boat, @ 20 degrees for comparison.
  2. 3 points
    Show coat to check my fairing. A couple of spots that need some work but generally OK.
  3. 3 points
    The weather here has been very lousy. I don't have the boat waterproof enough to leave outside, so work has been a bit slowed because I need to roll it out of my garage to put the masts up. But my dumb mistake on the mizzen tabernacle is almost over. My son Teddy helped me tip up the mast and mark it's proper location. I made a little template to rout the mast step into the base and routed the base last night........it came out nice. If fits snug and I think by this weekend we'll be past this self made problem. Unfortunately I'll be gone for a week on a family vacation out west and momentum will stop until I get back June 3rd, but I'd like to get past this before I go. I have a trip scheduled to go to Lake Champlain. At the rate I'm going it might be with my Sea Pearl, which is frustrating. Between work, HS track meets and honey-do's, time has been scarce. On a real positive note my good friend Doug bought me a oil lamp. Here it is hanging in the cabin. Up in Maine last year on his Cornish Shrimper we used his lamp to take the chill off the cabin. I'm super excited to have this aboard. Last night I snuck out in a totally dark garage to light it and it really makes a cozy cabin. I know y'all southerners don't need any heat in the cabin, but up here the evenings get cool and on a small boat this is the ticket. Thank you Doug!
  4. 3 points
    Yes, VMG means velocity made good, but good as in towards the wind. VMC or velocity made course is the rate at which you are approaching your destination. And closely related, and significant in giving meaning to the other terms is TWA, towards wind angle. For any given boat their is an optimum TWA for getting the highest VMG possible. This is the angle you use sailing to weather.
  5. 3 points
    Thanks guys. Not much has really changed, I've just been sanding. But I finally bought a new phone and have a clear photo.
  6. 3 points
    I recently finished my Stonefly canoe and waiting for the ice to melt to see how well she handles.
  7. 2 points
    Chick, I started drawing on paper again, but I used up my pencils. Coincidentally, the family had to renew the cell plan thing, and got a credit for a new device, which nobody wanted. So, wife and daughter decided to get a pad and “pencil” for me, so I can finally draw on the computer. It is literally a pencil shaped stylus that I rub on the glass face of a tablet device. The program (an Autodesk product) simulates pens (quill, rollerball, ball point, felt tip, etc) pencils (mechanical, colored, various hardness “leads”, etc) paint brushes, airbrushes, etc. etc. And the color is infinitely variable and selectable on a color wheel. I can literally draw with the pencil on the glass like paper, but I can zoom in and out, erase, delete, and... Well, that’s as far as I’ve gotten, as I don’t need any of the wizbang stuff on the program. It’s been fun drawing again, though. Peace, Robert P.S. On of the real paper drawings
  8. 2 points
    Justin, Looking good. Glad to see you post some pictures and that you were able to get started on the boat finally. I like your casters on the support frames i'm sure you will enjoy being able to slide the boat around the garage. For cleaning up that epoxy squeeze out, a "mini-grinder" with a heavy grit sandpaper disk like 36 grit is an essential tool at our shop. It will make quick work of the majority of those cured epoxy blobs just be real careful not to gouge the panel and do the final 1/16" with a block of sandpaper or a flat machine sander like a 1/2" sheet sander or random orbit. Looking forward to seeing her folded up!
  9. 2 points
    Wasserboot, I did not know that they made anyone that tall. It is important that can sleep comfortably so I take back my statement that nobody would need a bunk that long. If scaled lengthwise another 5% the midship berths would be 2.16 and the quarter berth would be 2.774 and the length of the boat would be 7.825 long.
  10. 2 points
    We have all the bulkheads in place that define the structure of the boat, I am 6 feet 3 inches (191 cm) and I have plenty of room everywhere. There is a huge amount of storage, and still have 66 gallons on fresh water, the holding tank is properly sized too. The icebox area will be insulated with 4 inches on the side and 6 inches on bottom and still have a generous area for the cold plate and refrigerated area for two. The 2 main berths are a comfortable sitting height when in the settee mode. We have had much larger boats that were more cramped in the “hi useage” areas.
  11. 2 points
    Wasserboot, The berths on the MF246 are 6'9" or 2.057 long. The quarter berth is even longer. I would not scale it any more because the volume increases too fast. It could be scaled by different length , beam and height factors but it rapidly becomes a new design. You surely do not need any more length in the bunks so moving bulkheads starts to get more complicated. As for windage, less is always more desirable. I think that it is still a reasonable trade off as the extra power gained from the stability helps to overcome it.
  12. 2 points
    I sailed a Tartan 27 for many years. It was one of the first fiberglass designs, and it had a short heavy keel with a centerboard launched therefrom, similar to Matt. It was a really good design. The keel kept it upright, and the CB really bit hard upwind. It pointed well. I think this is a good approach for the boat designed for these uses.
  13. 2 points
    Wasserboot, I am glad that you like our MF 234 and 246. I think that she will be an excellent boat for your waters. We have similar conditions here in Pamlico Sound which is large and shallow. Alan and I went through a list of boats to add to our web site yesterday. Alan has taken on the web site and has done a great job but we have been overloaded with work lately but digging our way out so expect to see some changes soon. Yes we will be listing the plans on the site.
  14. 2 points
    Slight deviation from the plans from now as I require an elevated deck for fly fishing. Front deck has a freeboard around ankle height and lower one just above knees (for rougher water) - perfect. Went with a H90 20mm foam to try and gain some weight back due to the modifications. Deck panels were vacuum bagged on a piece of 30mm MDF board/table and beams using cryovac bag rolls.
  15. 2 points
    The outside in the first layer of epoxy
  16. 2 points
    Have made some progress in the last few weeks. Glassed the keel (inside), broke and then fixed my hanging knees, made several other errors and recovered, attached the transom, framed out the centerboard trunk and coated the inside with an epoxy / graphite mixture so it will hopefully have less friction with the CB. Also have attached approximately 800 cleats to the top of interior members, almost ready to dry-fit the inside components of the boat.
  17. 2 points
    My camera does some optical illusion, but trust me, finally parallel masts. A great day of gardening and other stuff yesterday. This morning I got the mizzen tabernacle faired and tonight I'll check it for smoothness and prime it.
  18. 2 points
    Thrillsbe, looking great. I may retrofit the Suzy J with the new joining hardware. Looks pretty slick. A t trick for the next person.....They sell craft foam at michaels that is about the same as the kerf on a handsaw. It supports the bulkhead gap but can be cut like butter when doing the magician's trick.
  19. 2 points
  20. 2 points
    Nice work Amos. You'll find the shelving very useful. For builders who haven't installed the sheer strakes -- it's much easier to install the shelf-supporting cleats before doing the s-strakes. Same for any drawers you may want that may be stowed between Blks 4 & 5 that [for easy access] slide out over the bunks. For Chessie I'm still trying to figure out where to put hangers for shirts, hats, jackets, etc.
  21. 2 points
    Several times over the years the discussion about connecting nesting dinghies comes up. Before B&B came out with their UHMW plastic connectors a former contributor to this forum designed his own out of S/S. While going through my bookmarks I found Garry's link which includes pictures and drawings. I made mine exactly as Garry designed them and after 10 years they still work perfectly. It makes assembling the halves in the water (good when you are cruising) very easy, actually, easier than assembling on land. I like the idea of plastic as even S/S steel rusts, especially when bedded flush and underwater for periods of time. My dinghy spent 2, 5 month seasons in the water at a dinghy dock and the rust, while superficial looks terrible. There would probably be less issue for a dinghy stored on land. Any way, here it is...... https://pbase.com/onceagain/connector_design
  22. 2 points
    Well Chessie's dinghy, "Catnip" (a Two Paw 7), is finished (except for painting her interior a "battleship" gray). So I'm finishing the conversion of Chessie's trailer from 3-rollers to one 16' trough. Today applied the last coat of epoxy with one tablespoon of powered graphite. Here's a photo: Once the cure was at the "thin-film set" stage -- can you believe that I was allowed to move the sixteen foot epoxied 2x4 board into our living room to cure in 70 degree comfort? Now that's a wife you can live with for 60 years (come July)! I'll smooth out that groove with 400 grit aluminum oxid paper. Once installed, I'll help it be nice and slippery with some paste wood-floor wax. The loading will be reduced from ~500 lbs/roller to just ~100 lbs/foot, or only about 8 lbs/inch! I think the keel will be much relieved and the boat will have an easier highway transport. Chessie is in a lift at Backyard Boats in Woodbridge so that I can have the trailer at home for the modifications. Too much sunshine! Better pix later. Forward roller (aft to right). Middle roller. Note "walking board" going forward (to left). Very useful (recovering) for attaching winch hook to bow-eye and keeping dry. Aft roller. The board at the bottom of pix is the CB catcher. This keeps the CB from ever dragging on the highway -- and also never hanging up on the aft cross member when launching. Once the new trough proves itself in a trial launch -- I'll discard the rollers.
  23. 2 points
    Mark, For years we've used the GARMN MAP76 and 76CX (color version with charts and magnetometer). They have always served me well and garmin always fixes them and sends them back when we send them in for repairs. I think our family has about 6 of them between us and we carry multiple spares although we've rarely had a breakdown with them. They do have a tendancy to shut off when the battery gets disconnected such as if they bang against the cockpit seats and the battery squeezes the spring and momentarily loses contact. I keep the gps in my PFD pocket on my kokatat misfit pfd with the screen facing my chest. i can slide it up for a quick check very easily. at night i typically leave it clipped to something and sitting on the seat in front of me with the backlight on the dimmest setting. That way i have a hand free to use the spotlight and can just look down to check our course. This year we took the newer MAP 78 which is a bit different but i still like it fine but don't have nearly as much time on it. Fred, Dead down wind (with main and mizzen on the same side) the chute is hanging lifeless behind the mainsail which is when you would hoist or recover it if it were bag launched from the cockpit. As we head up, we sheet it in to get it "started" and the leading edge catches the breeze and it quickly fills and we let the sheet way out so it can billow out to it's proper trim (leading edge just starting to curl). We head up to say 10 deg off ddw and the chute stays filled but the boat does not accelerate much this is where I found the best angle to be for the lighter winds we had (about 8 knots). Heading further up to say 20-30 deg off the wind the leading edge collapses as the apparent wind rotates further forward so you sheet in to keep the chute trimmed and the boat accelerates. As it accelerates apparent wind moves further ahead and you have to sheet in even more to keep up with it OR bear away. With an asymmetrical chute you are constantly playing it. rounding up to "heat" the boat up sheeting in as you do and then bearing away in the puffs to bleed off speed and gain progress downwind. VMG initially goes down but then back up once the boat gains speed. Whether or not VMG is better than it was when going ddw is what you're looking for. It's tough because you are constantly playing the chute and heading up and down a bit to keep it in trim. We didn't play the chute nearly as much as you would if you were buoy racing so with the chute cleated off it's up to the helmsman to keep it in trim with changes in course instead of constant sail trimming. heading up until it just starts to curl on the leading edge and then bearing away in the puffs. We did this a lot sailing in the tybee 500 especially when conditions were very steady state (flat water and constant breeze) and the crew can take a break from "sawing" on the spinnaker sheet. With a following swell you can head up to heat the boat up, catch the swell, bear away (sheeting out as you do to keep the chute powered up if needed) or if you caught the swell (yay) and are now surfing you might be sheeting the chute in hard to keep up with the apparent wind shifting forward. You just have to have your eyes glued to the leading edge of the spinnaker and do whatever it wants. If we'd had a bit more wind which we did a couple of times then the boat pops up on plane and as soon as it does you have to sheet the chute in again to keep up with the apparent wind (keeping the chute trimmed properly all the time). And then you can bear away now on plane and let the the chute out a bit as you do keeping the boat powered up and you can now drive the boat down on plane and make lots of good speed more toward ddw and if you lose speed you head back up to find it again. wash rinse repeat. I kept the mainsail in about where it would be when sailing upwind which is where it wanted to be and also helps act as a back-stay. Of course the running backstays were pulled in as well. On the spinnaker catamarans, if you don't have the main sheeted in tight when you're flying the chute the mast won't stay up very long. The mizzen is a different story, I kept it out more like i was on a broad reach or even a bit deeper because it has a lot of leverage over the boat and when the boat heats up and heels over there is weather helm generated from the lift of the sails being to the lee of the boat. To de-power the boat while flying the spinnaker you bear away toward ddw and you don't want anything to prevent you from doing that. The mizzen can easily overpower the rudder input in that situation. Many times when you want to bear away you have to make sure the mizzen is let out a touch. Also if you're sailing upwind hard and the boat is trying to sail on her ear too much it will cool right off if you just crack off on the mizzen just a touch. As for knowing when to tack or gybe in this case it was really just when we felt like it. We were following the leader so as a rule you don't want to get too far from them so you get about the same air as they have and you get about the same shifts and puffs. In our case we were also trying to minimize gybes which are slow so we would sail out until we though we can sail "in" back toward cape sable and have a nice long run. We're trying to sail the shortest path so like for sailing around cape sable we set a go to point down at the farthest point out that we'll have to turn at. When we reach that point we set a new point and so on. So the gps is always telling me to turn to that course that is the shortest straight line course. If you tack through 100 deg and you're sailing upwind on a port tack and the gps says turn 50 deg to port to be "on course" then you know you're doing just as good on that course as you would do on the other tack. If you get headed (wind shift causing you to bear away or fall off) then you can switch to the favored tack for a slightly higher vmg. Some boats sail waaay out away from the beach but i don't like that because most of the wind is usually right there near the beach and also i can't tell you how many times i've been farther off the beach and watched boats closer to the beach pull away and rarely is it the other way around. As you approach a "go to" point you're navigating to on your GPS then you get close to the laylines and the "turn to" number changes faster. You know when you've reached the layline when your turn number equals your tacking angle (assuming there is no current). the gps is a super handy tool and invaluable at night but during the day i'm focused just as much on where other boats are, looking for current as we pass markers and making sure the boat "feels fast". Also, we probably kicked our rudder up 30 or 40 times along the course and pulled the CB up all the way occasionally during a tack to make sure we weren't dragging an ocean of seaweeds around with us. Usually you see a nice clump of them float away behind the boat whenever you do.
  24. 2 points
    I enjoyed watching your time lapse video, you are doing a great job. I am sorry about your little glitch. It is not a big deal and will not compromise the boat. Unfortunately it is right around the maximum curvature where the ply is under the most stress and will cause a slight outward bulge. It needs to be epoxied back into place but you need to apply force to get the cracked veneers back to the fair shape. I would cut a piece of 6mm ply about 9" long and 7" wide with plastic sandwiched between the ply and the hull and screw it over the damaged area to force the hull back to its fair shape until the epoxy cured. Because the 6mm ply bottom that you are screwing into does not have enough thread bearing area to absorb the force needed to draw the cracked area back to a fair shape, you need to use some blocks to screw into, like 1 1/4" squares of 3/4" ply. Put some duct tape on the underside of the blocks. You should do a dry run to check that it works like you want. If it does not quite bring the surface back to fair, try thicker ply. I presume that you will glass the outside of the hull before painting. I would glass a patch on the inside and you will be back to full strength.
  25. 2 points
    I'm using the two Anderson bailers method. I don't think it is necessary superior to any other method; just different (Jay's system works very well; I saw it in person at one of the Messabouts and it is very quick to fill and empty). Yes, you do have to remove the flapper in the reverse-mounted bailer (hereafter referred to as the scoop). It is very easy to remove; pliars and 10 seconds are all you need. Filling While sailing: filling with the scoop does not take long at all, even at 1 knot While motoring: very quick and effecient Not moving: slow (I open both bailers to speed it up, but it takes awhile). It will only fill the tank up to the waterline of the boat, so you will have to top it off after closing the bailers. I use a folding bucket. Any water spilled goes right out of the self-draining cockpit. Emptying While sailing: need to be moving above 3 knots. I haven't timed it, but it isn't quick. It won't empty the last inch or so of water, but I don't think that is a big deal. One disadvantage is situations when the wind dies down, you are moving slow, and you want to empty the tank. It can take a while. I need to buy a kayaker's hand pump for these cases; I think that would work well. While motoring: empties quickly and effeciently Not moving: only the portion of the tank above the waterline will empty (maybe 25% of the tank?). I need to get a handpump for these cases. I wouldn't change anything if I had to do it again. Yes, you need a handpump and bucket, but those are good items to have regardless of the ballast tank. I think the ballast tank is one the best features of the boat (love the low trailering weight), and whichever empty/fill technique you use you will be happy you have one. I hit some steep chop close-hauled in the middle of the Chesapeake Bay, put the water ballast in, and it smoothed out the motion of the boat. I was amazed at how well it handled the waves.
  26. 2 points
    It is a good idea to add extra sail area for those light weather days. You can either run the staysail or the spinnaker. There is just not enough room for 4 sails on the boat for all of them to set well at the same time and have a nice slot between them so that they can all draw efficiently. The staysail is a docile easily handled sail that will boost your speed nicely. It is easy to hoist and retrieve. It can be used on a close reach to a broad reach. It can be set with the the working sails wing and wing on a fairly broad reach but not straight down wind because the sails start to blanket each other. Tacking down wind in a narrow channel is annoying because the staysail has to be removed for the main to gybe. I have never used the staysail on Carlita because I have the spinnaker and being bigger I will opt for it making the staysail redundant for me. I have experimented a flat cut sail like a jib and a radial tri cut spinnaker. Naturally the flat cut will allow you to carry it closer to the wind but you cannot carry it close enough for windward work. Because it is hard to change spinnakers under way especially solo I typically opt for the spinnaker giving up being able to sail as high with it. It is a lot larger which means that I will have to furl it up sooner than I would with the smaller sail so everything is a compromise. The prices are for the sails only.
  27. 2 points
  28. 2 points
  29. 2 points
    Tom, You know what I think about ballast in a powerboat. I am looking forward to seeing the Old Codger. Alan asked me last week how I thought she would float, I answered " by the stern" and he said "I think so too". Of course I had prior info, Chick told me that he was going to steer with the tiller. Maybe we can talk him into some sort of bulkhead steering system. It would be more agreeable when he does the Great Loop. She is so light that her moment to trim would be small, maybe a few cans of vienna sausages and a couple of Linda Ronstadt tapes stowed in the bow will trim her out and leave the stones ashore.
  30. 2 points
    Looks like the water level got up to about 8' above MWL. I just got some pics from Taylor that show a mess under our house (expected) but no disaster. I think Alan and family did a great job of prep at the shop, still a huge mess to clean up, but he reports that the losses don't look substantial. Alan and Taylor, and Graham and Carla are back putting their world aright. Bobbie and I fared well in Chapel Hill, but I'm not sure when we'll get back out to start cleanup at this point. Travel is difficult with so many roads closed. Alan and Taylor snuck out between the surge subsiding and the rivers rising.
  31. 2 points
    I finished up a Tadpole that I’ve been building for my great nieces and nephews. It was such a fun project. It came together much faster than the Long Shots. I can’t wait to paddle with the kids. Thanks for the plans Jeff.
  32. 2 points
    Dave, I thought the bow pulpit and anchor were for us pirates to use for ramming boats and docks and such. dale
  33. 2 points
    I am with Ken, I do not find this subject a downer at all. I have a lot of miles under me in the CS17 and 20 and have never capsized one unintended. The picture of me sitting on the centerboard of my CS17 at the beginning of this string was taken before I went in the EC. It pays to find out if there will be any issues and to solve them before you commit yourself. Instead of depressing me, it made me feel more comfortable when running hard through the night way offshore in the Gulf and very alone, that if something went wrong I could get myself out of it. My first boat was an 11' moth. I weighed less than 100 # and was totally ignorant. I was lucky that it was totally decked over and was easy to right. I capsized so many times that it became a family joke. With all of that practice I became very good at the art of the capsize and would be over the top and onto the board and back over the rail as the boat came back up, barely getting wet. On a blustery day on the river, a good samaritan saw me capsize a few times and called the police. I do not know how they knew where I lived but when the officer told my mother that I had capsized 5 times, her response was "only 5 times"!
  34. 2 points
  35. 2 points
    I build ugly boats so I can go have fun sailing and so I can see all the beautiful boats that other people build. I'm always grateful that there are people who build beautiful boats for me to look at and I hope they don't mind too much that they have to look at my ugly boat after all their work. Really, though, the prettiest boats out there are yellow... Even if (in my case) they need to be viewed from a distance.
  36. 2 points
    If the Okoume ply is BS 1088 it is probably the most integrally made plywood in the world. But we are using plywood in a way it wasn't intended. Jeff has figured out on his own just how a frame need be built to use plywoods. I would venture that Baltic Birch is the strongest of the 1/2" plywoods being discussed in this forum, because of the wood being the only hardwood of them all. Because of how plywood is made a laminated beam is by far the stronger structure when completed. It would be trial and error to figure what you need in plywood to replace a laminated beam. Or silly over build to be safe.
  37. 2 points
    You had me with it about the sailing over motoring, but to stoop to saying there is even such a thing as too many boats?
  38. 2 points
    Even half a world away PAR will be missed by many. He was a frequent, knowledgeable and generous contributor to the wooden boat section of the Aussie based Woodwork Forums. His willingness to freely share his experience helped many of us make decisions and find a way through difficulties with boat building and repairs. He explained things in a way that was easy to understand and also engaged in the humorous banter that goes on. Of course we never met him in person but in the Forum environment he was good company for many reasons. RIP
  39. 2 points
    These unexpected shocks do take a bit out of us. Paul and I were often on the same wavelength in forum discussions and had personal confabs on topics of mutual interest as well. The boats we designed had enough similar goals but were also enough different to afford a wide array of discussion topics. The forum will be a more bland place without his daily contributions that were always on point and helpful. While his sword could be a bit sharp at times, those who could take the jabs most always benefited from the encounter. We glide along, not thinking that any major disruption is about to happen, when the loss of another forum friend stirs our mental pot. Its a singular occurrence that we could develop such a close relationship with an unseen friend in almost any far away place on our planet. We almost never had such experiences before the internet put others thoughts and ideas so easily into our individual lives. RIP, PAR, we will miss your presence. I will miss your presence.
  40. 2 points
    I stand corrected, I saw a picture on the Ronstan website that showed a lashing through the center and I incorrectly assumed that was the only way to rig the block. I too much prefer lashings, they are much quieter than shackles.
  41. 2 points
    Here are a few interior pictures
  42. 2 points
    Hello, everyone. I'm Mehmet from Türkiye. First of all I apologize for any mistakes I can make with inadequate English. I think I will improve with plenty of practice over time and thank you in advance for your assistance and patience in this regard. Vacationer is flat bottom, low profile, "25-30cm." can be defined as a lake boat boat. In wich they are warning that they have sheltered waters even in their own web site. When I gave my heart to this project many years ago, this expression; Due to my lack of experience and knowledge of the sea, he forced me to leave Until this time I noticed that boats like walnut shells travel safely at sea. Of course there are other reasons, my age is moving forward and my financial situation is constantly deteriorating. And I do not want to die without a tour with my own boat. For this reason I decided to do "Stevproject's Vacationer", which I thought could be done on a low budget, shortly without help, and with some modifications. First: I'll put the engine in a well. Later I will try to make it suitable for the open seas such as Mediterranean, Aegean and Black Sea by adding a V base karina up to. Of course, the cabin will to rise to the point where it would not break the proportions and It's also a bit larger The project is based on the original plywood, but the plywood prices have flying. For this reason, I decided to make it from solid wood and I preferred to make the material "Laden" because the only material that could be found in this region was pine. First, I decided to started to improvise the changes I'm going to make on the 1/10 model that the project. On plan DWL line unfortunately does not exist. When I according to the observation I got from the images on the surface of the sited and those who applied it earlier, it looks like the head of the craft will bury 2-3 degrees in the water as the DWL line is draw. No longer; After to paint it with epoxy. I left it to water to see it in the water and identify the non-plan DWL line. When I threw it to the water, it was happened the first thing I predicted. The waterwave lined low 2 degrees from the axis of the spine. Then I noticed that the curtain on which the pole box lined was placed 2 degrees horizontally. Maybe for this, do not know real reason . Anyway I decided to continue. Probably the pulley on rudder caught your attention. It for the rudder movement to be moved to the "yeke" is due to the inverted tilt of the stern, you don't look at the roughness of its dimensions. Now it's time to transfer the changes made to the plan.
  43. 2 points
    Almost ran out of spring clamps.
  44. 2 points
    Well that's how its done in the industry. Just tape that line and have at it.
  45. 2 points
    An additional photo that didn't post first time around. I float on to this position then crank in the last few feet. Build more Belhavens.
  46. 2 points
    Launch Day! Photos are not specifically of the trailer setup, but I hope it gives you an idea.
  47. 2 points
    Chessie now has her Dodger and is tucked snugly away in her garage just as Virginia gets ready for the last [hopefu;;y] snow on the 2nd day of spring. Just before Dave (Potomac Canvas Co.) started cutting canvas, I stood under the dry-fitted tubing and decided that the headroom [under to tubing] wouldn't be enough for me to stand in the companionway and comfortably use a hand-held urinal. So I asked Dave if he could cut me a "zippered" opening in the top that would give me unlimited headroom while standing on the cabin sole. He wouldn't guarantee it to be waterproof, but we decided that it would resist all but the hardest rain. And if the companionway hatch is closed, leaking wouldn't matter anyway. And, after final assembly, we discovered another reason to have the opening. It allows for deployment / stowage of the Dodger while on the water. I suppose that will be occasionally useful, but for the most part I'll probably sail with the Dodger deployed. I'll discover if that's the case during this summer's cruising season. Dave originally didn't recommend that the Dodger (even in stowed position) be on the cabin roof while trailering on the highway. But he made a "dust cover" for me anyway. And seeing how well it's secured on the cabin roof, he thought highway travel would be OK. In fact I hit 60 to 70 mph while trailering her home from the canvas shop without any problems. Here are a few photos: The planned "sky-light": The next two photos show the "Boot" -- which we originally called just a "dust cover": The black item is simply a piece of pipe insulation slipped over the leading edge as "chafe" protection where the canvas and tubing rest on the dodger's coaming. Entrance / exit thru the companionway hatch is slightly impeded when Dodger in stowed position.. View from the starboard-side helmsman position. I'd say the view is not significantly impeded. Skylight open and rolled up. View from aft, starboard and port. View from forward and closeup of attachment hardware. Once folded and in the "boot" the whole thing can be removed by just lining up the retainers and pulling the pins. Later, I'll post the weight of the whole thing. NOTICE the wrinkles in the top. They will be "tensioned" out when Dave sends me the "tensioning" straps which will pull the top "tight" with extra leverage much more so than the little bungee cords on the ear-flaps. The first straps wouldn't release easily. By-the-way: The skylight allows one to reach all the turn-buttons while standing on the cabin sole. Absent that feature, deployment and stowage would have to be made on shore before launch. With the skylight open -- I can launch with the Dodger in its boot and strapped to the cabin roof for road transport. Perhaps not deployed at all during a day-sail, or only at anchor (on an overnight cruise).
  48. 2 points
    Drew, I had the same question. Unfortunately that would only work to furl the sail in about half way and then it would bind up. Once the top half of the sail starts to wind onto the torsion line then the whole thing goes and the tack starts wrapping up as well. We found the best was to just keep winding and all the spinnaker sheets were taken up (wrapped around the sail) and all out of the way.
  49. 2 points
    Here is Sumer Breeze with her new ownwers, Dale and Kristi in Florida.
  50. 2 points
    On my DAYsailer, I have a portable LED system. 99% of the time, I’m home eating supper before the sun goes down. But if I’m doing some twilight fishing, for example, these come out. The mounts are already in place. All I have to do is clip them into their mounting brackets (not the suction cups!), and turn them on. If/when I get to doing some camp cruising, I’ll hoist a handheld lamp aloft. I guess it all depends on how often you will use them. Now, mind you, if I had a mark III, I might have to rethink my strategy. But I’m trying to employ the KISS (Keep It Simple, Silsbe) method.

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