Leaderboard

Yes, they are the same as the gussets. The two detail views show how they are situated. The large one attaches forward of the deck beam (aft of the bulkhead). If you have these gusset/knees from the kit, that is good because they will define the angle of the coaming which is a detail that I wrestled with for some time.

I find it useful to estimate the amount of resin to mix by planning on a 50/50 ratio of glass to epoxy in the finished product. Use the weight per sq yard of the glass you're using and multiply by the yards of glass you're doing (for each session) - that should approximate the total amount of epoxy you need to use. If I remember (no guarantee, here) I'd mix half of that amount and spread it on the surface then roll the precut glass onto the surface and squeegee it until the glass shows clear - then apply the remaining epoxy after the glass is properly positioned and smoothed with the initial coat. By rolling up the glass piece into a tube before applying I found that I could usually do this easily without any second set of hands for helping to hold and position the glass fabric onto the wet surface. Usually I'd start unrolling from the transom end, keeping the straight edge aligned along the keel/centerline of the hull and working out the wrinkles as I go. Lastly, about filling the weave... If the glass shows the weave after the epoxy has gone green but before it goes full hard -- I use a wide scraper (hardware store paint scraper, about 4" to 6" wide with sharp blade) to scrape the epoxy smooth (use EXTREME care to NOT scrape into the fiberglass. For me, this greatly reduces (nearly eliminates) the extra coats of epoxy needed for filling the weave (and the sanding needed to get a smooth finish). Saves the weight and cost of extra coats of epoxy too. Just saying.