Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Today
  2. Week 4: Day 21 — Bow area, Deck Plates I am starting to work on the boat project again after taking the week off. Yay! Since I lost a full week, I am “re-using” week 4. Lots of little things we’re done today that require some epoxy curing time. After taping several new bow joints and and fairing the bow area stringers and beams (I actually broke out the old hand plane which has been idle for years), I then put 3 coats of epoxy onto everything in the bow area that wasn’t already sealed. Since I will shorten the side gussets to help me get oars out of the way under the side decks, I beefed them up with 3/4” pine from wood left from shortening the king plank for the tabernacle. Waste not; want not. I cut out the hole in the deck to accommodate the tabernacle, which received epoxy bushings finally (some glassing of the inside of the tabernacle tomorrow.) I was really being careful with this saber saw cut to the front deck. Even so, the cut is kind of wavy and bumpy as I run my finger along the curve. Lots of sanding helped, but... this REALLY makes me appreciate the straightness and accuracy of the CNC produced kit. The seats are close to being installed so it was time to cut the holes for deck plates to the forward trunk. That was an interesting bit of contortion to make those cuts. I thought that maybe I should fashion something to provide more wood for the deck plate screws... a couple circles of pine should do it. They only have one coat of epoxy so far. Finally, I ordered paint tonight: Interlux Brightside, thinner, non-skid compound and primer. White and red. It was pleasant to get back to the CA15 build today and I anticipate a full week coming up... unless I go downstate on Wednesday for a motorcycle ride with my sons. 😁
  3. Yesterday
  4. You're right about the odd bit of epoxy here and there adding to the weight. It's difficult to keep on top of the incremental rise. A big learning curve. I think if I'm 15-20% overweight I'll be doing well. However, I'm not hugely concerned about the extra weight being too much of a problem. If a skinny half N11 comes in at 16kg and mine is over 20kg it's no real problem. My wife I are getting used to shifting the two sections in tight spaces and they're not too much for us. It's getting used to the size and shape. A block and tackle on a halyard will make quick work of a deck launch. I do like the look of the CS17 in aluminium and the fact that she could stop a .38! She must have been an ice breaker in Alaska. Avoiding being overbuilt is the challenge but that's still impressive metal working! Weight is always a concern - I thought that a Bruce Roberts design would be perfect for us until we met someone who had a PCF 40 (which wasn't a design we were considering but a similar length). We helped them berth in a breeze and the weight of it was immense. Way too much to handle. Put me off steel completely. Anyway, an interesting off topic interlude...back to thinking about cam cleat positioning 🙂
  5. Don, thats awesome! I just put that plan on the site last week. Glad it worked for you with the paper templates. Thanks for sharing.
  6. This subject keeps coming back. There are many ways to measure strength and one of plywoods greats properties is that being a low density material it's stiffness to tensile strength to weight ratio is close to ideal. For instance, if we were building an aluminium Spindrift and trying to keep it from being too heavy, we could look at 16 gauge which is a cigarette paper thicker than 1/16" or 1.651 mm for our mathematically challenged European friends. Now if we compare it's weight to 6mm okume, it comes out at about twice the weight per square foot or meter. That already is a pound or kilo too far for me to cross already, not to mention that the bottom would probably need stiffening with a couple of stringers, compounding the build by a lot of extra welding. We do not even need to factor in that aluminium does not float. The Gougeon Brothers used to have great display at boat shows.They had every material that you could build a boat out of. Each piece was cantilevered 12" past the edge of the table and was exactly 1" wide and weighed the same. They varied the thickness of each piece so that the weights would be exactly the same. When the same weight was placed on the end of each piece, people were amazed to see how much stiffer wood was compared to the other materials and compared to steel, which we all know is very strong. The only way to beat wood is to lower the density further and that means to use a core material. As we have seen that can work but a little more resin here and there and we have lost the weight battle. A little extra weight is not a big deal in a work boat but in a tender that has to be manhandled a lot in often awkward conditions, it is a big deal.
  7. The week-off is about done and I will return to the boat project this weekend. Yesterday, I went downstate to ride one of my motorcycles that my son “stables.” Great three hour ride. The first 50 miles was on winding two-lane roads through rolling hills, woods, and farms. The second 50 miles was on a state RV trail, again through woods, farms and cute little towns. Much of the trail goes alongside several rivers. THEN, after my ride, three of my kids’ families got together at my other son’s house for his wood-fired pizza supper and a campfire. The three grandkids (4,5,6 years) hadn’t been with any other children for over two months... a rollicking time for them... sort of like squirrels in the springtime. 😁 Now, to again pick up the CS15 project.
  8. An issue to be mindful of when designing a lithium battery system is fire. A friend of mine nearly lost his boat to fire due to a failure in one of the lithium cells. This was despite having a battery monitoring system that had been carefully designed to deal with this possibility. Sticking with Torqeedo’s engineered BMS solution is probably a good idea
  9. I like to have a drain in all my boats in case they fill with rain water when I'm transporting them, or if I leave one upright on the shore or at home, and they fill with rain. They then ar too heavy too turn over and dump. The drain---with a plug of course---is "plan B" to empty them.
  10. So, after mounting it on your canoe, ya gonna do some farming with it?
  11. A guy in Alaska built a CS17 in aluminium many years ago- heavy and overbuilt Here's a link https://messing-about.com/forums/topic/5680-aluminum-cs17-for-sale-possibly/?tab=comments#comment-47874 Cheers Peter HK
  12. Last week
  13. Today, I sanded and tweaked, until it wanted to lay naturally on a flat surface. Then, I tack-glued it all together.
  14. So, slightly off topic of Nidaplast and epoxy... Whilst playing with the buoyancy tanks and centreboard case, I wondered if an aluminium build would be possible. We had two weeks boating in the Netherlands last year and my word they are skilled metal workers. Has anyone put together an aluminium B and B design? What do you think Graham? It could be the best of both worlds - lightweight and robust. Unfortunately, for me tig welding in the living room is out of the question! I would have to wait for a windfall and get one commissioned. Just curious to hear what others think 🙂
  15. New problem to solve - I can get either 5/8" Meranti, or 3/8" Okume, after talking to them they were out of the BB. Thinking I could do the Meranti and narrow the frames a little to lose a bit of the weight.
  16. Got first coat of paint with new 9oz polyester today. I used Kilz Original oil primmer thinned with about 1/3 paint thinner. The plan is to follow up with traditional rustoleum paint on second and third coat. I know people have recently had trouble with the 9 oz, so I wanted to share my experience. I didn’t do a great job getting the skin super tight while sewing, especially around the coaming. I didn’t care enough to keep working it, and ironing it only helped a bit. I threw on the Kilz as I had extra primer laying around and figured it’d be a nice experiment as others reported problems with the rustoleum... if anything the skin is tighter now after painting. Being thinned primer, the paint was drying as fast as I could lay it on. I will update if it slacks as I throw on the next two coats.
  17. Between my self-containment due the the pandemic (I’m fine), and coaching my friend Jan on her S12 build, I got the itch to stitch up some Okoume. So, I bought some plans for a seat for my Flyfisher 13 yesterday. I downloaded them, printed them, and started cutting up scraps. It is going quickly! Here’s where I am, so far.
  18. Some years ago I build a 2 Paws, we lived in a close knit neighborhood in New Orleans and had an elderly lady across the street that watched the build with some interest. When I got to the saw it in half stage, she saw that process and called Carol at work and said I had gone crazy, I was sawing the little boat I had been sanding so much up!
  19. Hi Don, for the batteries I am using Torqeedo’s new 24-3500 battery, it is a LI-N-MC battery with quite sophisticated BMS system, they “advertised “ 800 cycles to 100% DOD with 25% loss of capacity. I will very unlikely discharge to the BMS shuts the battery off. They weigh about 1/2 of AMG and 3500 watts @ 24VDC. Quite a lot of power, slightly larger than 2 27 series AMG. I did get a surprise, I was understanding that the BMS had an internal shunt that measured the total in/out and displayed it, not so.......so the house loads, though minimal @ 12vdc will go basically unmeasured.......I think. If that is the case, well still a lot of variables! Goal is to be able to motor 8 hours at 3 kts, unaided by sailing or solar. We initially discussed using several Tesla battery modules but I have/had concerns on a home brewed system when there are so many other concerns to deal with, so the ultra injuneerin of the Torqeedo looks to be the most conservative approach.
  20. Hopefully your neighbors observed you cutting your boat in half. I can imagine the dinnertime conversation: "You know that guy across the street building a boat? I think he has given up on his project, today I saw him destroy it with a saw.".
  21. I almost did the same thing, Don, but then I realized since she'll spend most of her life upside down anyways it's probably not necessary. I am concerned with getting some paint down in there since I don't want the epoxy exposed to UV. Either that or make some kind of cap for when I'm not sailing which will realistically be most of the time I'm using the boat.
  22. In your cost calculations, you need to factor in battery life. And with AGM batteries, which I prefer over lead-acid, there are limits to how deeply they can be discharged. If you go beyond those limits, the battery will not recover. I still like the idea of electric over diesel or gasoline. But there are no simple solutions for those windless days.
  23. Darn! After reading that beautiful article, I want to build a S9N! My TP8 suits my needs perfectly, though. But it looks so fine in those pictures! Thanks, Graham, for sharing that story.
  24. When I built my mast sleeve, I took great pains to install a little drain in the bottom, so it wouldn’t fill up with rain water. It just occurred to me that with a boat this small, you can just roll it over to empty any accumulation. Duh!
  25. This stage is where you can say the job is "half" done!
  26. I'm a big fan of 'Sailwiththeflo'- that's where I first came across the Spindrift design. As there will be three of us we will go for a slightly bigger version.
  1. Load more activity

  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.