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  1. Yesterday
  2. If you go with a Torqueedo, maybe consider that it stores somewhere besides in place. No oil or gas to spill in doing so. And you can make an insert to fill the hole when sailing.
  3. Your design engineering and math knowledge are wicked smooth, I wish I paid better attention in Physics! I’m very impressed and hope to incorporate your design whenever I get a trailer. The incorporated graphite is a super idea and got me thinking of a plastic like Delrin or even Teflon which have similar coefficient of drag that might work. Just the same, I think your ideas’ are pretty rock solid, especially like the old school Johnson paste wax idea!
  4. Last week
  5. A few days ago I was able to recruit an onlooker at the ramp to take a video of Chessie's launch. This time I backed the trailer into the river with the water just about an inch below the the WL boot. That put the wheel bearings just under water. Here's what it looks like: This shows position of the rig just prior to the launch video. Next is the video of the actual launch. I just let the pickup and trailer coast backward about a foot, then hit the brakes! That overcame the "slip/stick" effect -- and she slipped smoothly into the river. IMG_1928.mp4 In the pickup I carry a can of Johnson's paste floor wax -- and before recovery give the trough a good swipe. This time the trailer wasn't so deep into the river [than the first time] which caused a little harder cranking on the winch. The last foot or so I shifted to the low gear. The winch hook was attached from the dock and the boat nudged onto the end of the trough. Once in the right place the tug of the winch cable kept her "lined-up." Shown here after recovery. I consider the modification a significant improvement for both launch and recovery -- AND a much gentler highway ride for the boat. Probably less trailer maintenance as well. Next time I'll see how it worke if I back only so far as to keep the wheel bearing dry.
  6. As I said, I did and they wanted more than I sell them for.
  7. Hi Jeff, I had my frames cut by CNC router. He used a 4mm bit so the internal corners are all 2mm radius - perfect. I can't fault it and no burnt edges. It cost me Aus $70 (this includes setup) but would be cheaper if done in bulk. So I would look around for someone who does that in your area. Cheers Tony
  8. Well, if I’m gonna finish this cutie, I’d better get going. Cruising with Graham got me inspired again. I glued in the seat tanks, minus inspection ports. I was so “inspired”, that I forgot to put reinforcing stringers inside my 4mm seats. Since I had some scrap 4oz glass, I thought it couldn’t hurt to beef them up a bit. I used some scrap blue poly tarp to make a pattern. Today, I bolted the two halves together, and broke out the Quick Fair. I’m hoping I can get some primer on the interior soon! Time will tell.
  9. Worthy considerations Amos. Though built very differently, the mold for a Lapwing becomes part of the boat, bulkheads and inboard sides of side seat/tanks. One of the bulkheads gets a major portion of it cut out, but the same issue of deforming under strain during construction exists. I cut out the corners of the holes with hole saw blades of appropriate diameter before, so that I had easy straight cuts for after. I calculated my jigsaw would fit for doing these straight sections.
  10. I didn't cut out the opening ahead of time; I probably should have, it would have been easier (I used a keyhole saw after the bulkhead was fiberglassed in place). If you cut out the opening prior to installing the bulkhead; you may want to temporary reinforce the opening. When you install the bulkhead after unfolding the boat, there is significant pressure on the lower portion of the bulkhead as you conform the panels to the shape of the bulkhead. Consider temporarily clamping a board across the hole to keep the plywood from bending during installation (since I didn't go this route, I can't say for sure that this is necessary).
  11. Side bench with built-in cool box
  12. Between all the Springtime yard projects and the honey-do’s I’ve been slowly and steadily making progress as per plan recommendations. Bulkheads 1&2, transom and hanging knees. Many little lessons learned thus far and I’m becoming more confident in trusting the process as well as myself. I’m wasting a lot less epoxy goo now that I can better judge amounts. I purchased 2 Beckson ports for ventilation and access under anchor locker. I cutout the ventilation port on bulkhead 1, should I now also cut out opening for underneath anchor stowage? I plan to mount actual port itself post final epoxy coating using silicone and magic fasteners. Once again I reiterated how much I appreciate the sharing of information in this forum, without which I do not believe I could have taken on a project of this magnitude by myself. Despite many decades of sailing, racing and cruising all manner of boats, I’m graciously humble to be a “newbie” boatbuilder. This build has already assisted me personally as I transition into semi-retirement, which I finding to be an oxymoron. Happy Easter to All! Altus Tendo
  13. thanks chaps. I will do a few tests
  14. I don't think anyone on this forum has tried a 2 part LPU. I would think it would crack like spider webs. The paint is hard and brittle over a flexible surface. I used oil based porch and deck enamel as it foot the bill and could be custom mixed to a bazzilion colors shown on chips.
  15. Excellent design and photos, Amos. I saved copies on my to-do page.
  16. That is hard to answer not knowing what you have available. But I can say oil based products do the best. If you can find a clear oil based poly or Varnish, as long as they dry to hard finish that should work. Even if you store it inside I would try ti fond something with UV protection. There used to be a water clear finish available here, no idea exactly what it was but it tintable and very durable. It went away but you might have something similar if you do some searching on the internet.
  17. I have decided to sell my 'Salty'. At this price she is a very good buy for someone that will take good care of her. Here are the details. Send me a personal message, or email or call. She is located in Palm Harbor, FL USA dale 2013 18’ B & B Designed Marissa Center Console Motorboat, 2013 Yamaha F60, 60 HP Engine 2012 Continental Galvanized Trailer ONLY 84 hours on the engine. Serviced regularly She has been used very little and is in excellent condition Professionally painted with AwlGrip Constructed from a B & B Yacht Design Kit Construction: Composite - Okume plywood with fiberglass on both sides Hydraulic steering with Stainless wheel with knob Custom professionally made Sunbrella bimini Professionally made Custom Sunbrella cover Winner of the Wooden Boat Eco boat design contest $18,900 dalesails@gmail.com 727-492-0436
  18. Sorry to bring up this topic again but it may be slightly different from this side of the world (Australia). I am building a stonefly canoe and would like to have my 9oz polyester fabric translucent and preferably with the fabric dyed brown/tan before the finish is applied. What is the best finish to use?. For Americans responders please specify type of finish rather than brand name. I was thinking a single pot oil based polyurethane like an Australian product - Estapol which is designed for interior woodwork. I know some people use 2 part polyurethane on nylon but would that work or be better for polyester? My canoe will get little use and will live inside my garage most of the time so UV exposure fairly minimal. Any tips appreciated. Tony
  19. Earlier
  20. That looks awesome. I really like those rounded fronts. I think I'm going to steal this for Skeena.
  21. Nice work Amos. You'll find the shelving very useful. For builders who haven't installed the sheer strakes -- it's much easier to install the shelf-supporting cleats before doing the s-strakes. Same for any drawers you may want that may be stowed between Blks 4 & 5 that [for easy access] slide out over the bunks. For Chessie I'm still trying to figure out where to put hangers for shirts, hats, jackets, etc.
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