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  2. For me, a lot of building is thinking to avoid mistakes and then thinking about how to fix the ones you made anyway. Looking great.
  3. Today
  4. Some photos from the week
  5. Yesterday
  6. I couldn't be more happy with the 70 Tohatsu 2 stroke, I can easily get 5 people and gear for a day on the water up and running with no problems and anyone having to move forward to get her to plane. At 4000 RPM I get 20-21 Knots and at full revs (5200) with 3 people on board just under 27 knots. 90% of the 20 foot boats I see on the water have motors on them 100 HP upwards! You shouldn't go wrong with (in my opinion) a 60 or 70HP, depending on your intended use of the boat.
  7. Last week
  8. Looking good! Fond memories of wood shavings and tight spaces for me.
  9. It's been a long while since I've posted. We see that comment frequently on this forum, don't we? That's life, I suppose. I tried not to say it again this time, but it has been. Actually, I've made it to a couple of nice milestones over the past several months...hull paint and flip. Since I'm fairly patient and persistent, but not super creative, I've had a tough time imagining an OB20 in any color than the dark green of Chick's Hull #1. I was thinking that dark blue might be a good alternative, but thought that a dark hull might be less complimentary to my fairing work, than a light color. Also, I was undecided about whether to include waterline marking. Alan convinced me when he said that he thinks waterline paint makes a boat look lower in the water and more elegant. I brainstormed a bit and came up with what I thought was a simple and brilliant tool to help mark the waterline...a pencil attached to a level stick . It may, or may not have been brilliant, but it was simple and it turns out has been around for a long time. I was fooling around with my "invention", when a buddy dropped by and said, "That's pretty cool, but why don't you just use my laser level?. Duh. The laser was a smart idea and made fun work of it. My buddy is a concrete contractor and thought I was being a little picky when I complained about the thickness of the laser line on the boat. Joan won't help me sand, but she takes her paint "tipping" very seriously...and does a good job of it, even with the unorthodox cross-over footwork. It wasn't until it was all painted that I realized it was "red, white and blue", which I like.
  10. Progress over the summer was slow, but I'm picking up the pace again, and it's looking more and more like a boat. I've had a couple of setbacks, the most recent one was when I epoxied the side of the centerboard trunk on the wrong side of central spine of the seat. Had to cut it off, fill the scars, and rebuild it, but I'm almost back to where I was.
  11. Really nice, Casey. Your work is neat, fast and precise.
  12. If you were at the messabout last year then you saw the boat. Very nicely built and comes with everything you'd need. Sadly Jeremy passed away and the boat needs to be sold. It would be a great opportunity to pick up at our messabout and get a day or 2 of sailing experience with other CS-17s on the water. Please contact the number provided in the listing. http://bandbyachtdesigns.com/awpcp-main-page/details/?id=36&fbclid=IwAR3b19kPbjkzRvsJPCwQsH-U8l3B_aFnDp1v6NifMMYHsUDZgnm5z22Cy60
  13. Justin, you definitely will need to take some material off the bottom of the bulkhead to allow for the keel glass thickness. I would scribe it with a pencil held flat against the hull and then grab a block plane to trim it or just a sanding block with some 60 or 80 grit paper. Likewise it looks like a gap on the sides just below the side stringers. The cutout (notch) in the top corners of the bulkhead for the side stringers should be widened/opened up if needed to allow the sides of the bulkhead to meed the side of the hull. Take material off the bottom of the bulkhead until the top edge of the bulkhead is flush with the tops of the side stringers. This goes for the forward lower bulkhead as well. Take material off the bottom of it as needed so that the top edge is flush with the tops of the side stringers. You can also round over the chine corners of the bulkheads to allow for the chine glassing/radius. Gaps are no problem if you take off too much material they will just be filled in with thickened epoxy when you glass the bulkheads in but again you want the top edges of the bulkheads flush with the tops of the side stringers and the sides of the bulkheads (ideally) sitting against the inside of the hull sides. That will set the width of the hull there as designed. You shouldn't need to take any material off the sides of the bulkheads. The transverse drainage channel piece (#28) is cut to the width of the inside faces of the stringers so technically the designed hull shape would have you push the hull out to let it drop down between them. However every piece of wood bends differently so what i would recommend is that once you get the forward lower BH and BH2 in place Just trim the ends of that piece to fit between the side stringers. The hull shape will be set by the bulkheads (1, 2, and the center frame) and the side stringer will keep the hull side fair so in this case pushing the hull out at to make the piece fit I think might make the hull less fair. You could always bend a batten (like a 3/4" x 3/4" square piece of clear wood) around the outside of the hull to see how fair it is. If there is a low spot between BH1 and BH2 then you could try pushing it out there to let piece 28 in but I don't think there will be. Piece #8A is a little square of plywood that is designed to go underneath the butt joint where the drain channel turns 90 degrees. It is shown in the side view of the interior construction plan. That piece strengthens the butt joint by sandwiching it between plywood. You could also put a piece of glass tape under (or all around for that matter) the joint. I would be sure to round-over all of the lower edges of the drainage channel pieces at least a 1/4". Piece #22 and #23 are supports for the center of the casting platform. Even if you're not planning to install a seat on the casting deck I would still recommend installing them to help support the casting deck. Hope that helps! It's looking good.
  14. Hey Mark, maybe you didn't notice, but you're adding your post to an existing post right here in this thread! So just do that in the thread you'd like to continue: From the main list of topics, click on the thread you'd like to continue. Scroll down to the bottom of the page Find the Reply box. Enter your post Done!
  15. Well today was a milestone for any of us stitch and glue boat builders I was able to go 3D this took some work but with the help of a neighbor and my wife and the winch of my side x side we did it. My wife’s first words were it looks like a boat, everything went well and the panels lined up evenly but I do have issues with the #1 bulkhead that will be addressed when I come back from California to visit my grandson.
  16. I was able to get the forward bulkhead into its proper place. It’s still sitting a bit elevated, which I attribute to the rounding of the inside keel when thickened epoxy and two strips of fiberglass were installed. I think I will dremel out a small amount of material to allow the bulkhead to sit better. I also have a few questions about the drain channel hardwood supports for the box in the forward casting platform. Will a butt joint with thickened epoxy work to properly join these pieces? With regard to the athwartship hardwood piece mentioned above, this looks like it will run flush with the inboard hull stringers? Does the set back of the athwartship piece meet the hull stringers the distance back from the vertical bulkhead #2? If so, I have a 1/2” on either side where I have to widen the hull. See here:
  17. For what it's worth: I made long tapered ramps out of Starboard, bedded all with 3M 4200, and I also used Rustoleum products. What I wish I had done differently is to make an attractive taper all the way around the mast to conceal the steps between sections. I have admired masts where folks did that. Maybe that is a revision to try when repainting is needed.
  18. We have been using some packing tape under the track and clamping it down into a bed of thickened epoxy and cleanout the squeeze out which forms a nice even wedge. Some choped up glass mixed in would add some strength (less britttleness).
  19. I made some ramps with epoxy. There wasn't much to it, pretty simple, especially on the joints that had the taped gasket, since I let that run out some into the exposed section of the smaller tube. Looked nicer that way.
  20. What's the latest thinking regarding the "ramps" under the sail track where it spans from one aluminum tube size to another? Do you build these up with thickened epoxy before track installation or is there an easier way? I seem to be making this harder then necessary.
  21. Looks a lot like northern Arizona. Nice frame.
  22. That looks good. I wish i had done the same on my marrisa. Like you said nice sharp bow untill dented..
  23. What a shake down cruise. I still worry about a few glue joints, but seven years and I don't know how many thousand miles and " Skorpa " is still holding together.
  24. Earlier
  25. I did flick through your blog keen, you made a good job👍. ill be beaching my boat etc from time to time so it was a no brainer. Sure it looks nice sharpened, till it gets dented and you have to fix it! I wasnt to worried about speed or efficiency. Are you happy with the 70 tohatsu? Im looking at that option myself in new zealand. Hard to justify 13grand for a 4stroke when its 10 to 15kgs heavier and 10 less hp.
  26. Looking good Casey!! I did the same as you have done with mine.... When I did my OB's keel I put a full length keel band on it from 25 x 5 316 SS flat bar and polished it up. If I was to do it again, I would have put a half round Dee mould type at least from the stem down to the forefoot. My flat bar tends to push some water forward in a following sea and ends up spraying it into the cockpit. (Not a lot but enough to annoy the crew!) Trev
  27. I had a punch list of small things to do so I decided to tow her home. Thanks for asking.
  28. Justin, It looks like the hull squeezed in a bit without all the bulkheads in place while you glassed the chine. It looks close. I would keep pushing the hull out. You could drop in the upper forward bulkhead (the one that goes on top of the platform) just to help push it out. Clamp some 1x2 across the top and bottom of it to keep it from buckling or just use some 2x4 cut to the same length as a place holder. I saw you had it in place when you glued on the gunwales with is good. I would cut a piece of 2x4 about an inch wider than the fwd bulkhead and fit it between the side stringers just behind the bulkhead then you can tap it forward gradually which will push the sides out and take the pressure off your forward bulkhead so it can be glassed. I would also get that beam on the fwd bulkhead at the same time to stiffen it up.
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