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  2. I have always thought that it would be better to have a dorade vent at the base of the windshield of a pilothouse boat rather than the roof. You might make a brace from the mast to the pilothouse roof to run the cables to the radar.
  3. Yesterday
  4. Thanks Henry. Keep me posted.
  5. Ken... On DeDe we also used a Rochna with about 15 feet of 5/16 chain ? and 200 ft of 1/2 3 strand line.. Only had one drag and that was my own fault as I did not get a good set and did not expect a big blow that night. Wife was able to pull with out too much trouble ... occasionally I had to had to assist with a little engine help to break it free.. Not close to boat at this time so can not check.. Hope we get to visit toward the end of August.. Will communicate when we are getting ready to leave Alaska.. Henry
  6. Wow! The speed and quality of your work is impressive. Love the mast you are building. I have been thinking about a mast for Rosie as well. I would also like to incorporate a radar mount and perhaps a dorade style vent into the mix. I seem to like to make my life complicated. I will mount mine on the pilot house roof. Any ideas from the forum appreciated. Keep up the fabulous work! Ken
  7. Hi Guys- I am getting close to launching Rosie my Outer Banks 26. She is similar in size, weight and windage to a Bluejacket. I am putting my ground tackle together and would love to hear from you about your choices and how it has served you. The last time I was doing this was outfitting a heavy displacement cruising sailboat. Four heavy anchors (one to use, two to lose and one for a storm). All chain rode, etc. This time around the boat is very different and so should my approach be. There is a new crop of anchors which are in vogue that I have no experience with. They sound like a big improvement over the old CQR, BRUCE, etc. I bought a 22lb. ROCHNA as my primary anchor. The charts call for 3/8” nylon for the rode. I am sure it is strong enough but wonder about it chafing through to easily as well as being hard on the hands. I intend to try using Rosie without a windlass and being able to grip the line comfortably is important. Going to large and the elasticity is gone, however. The charts also call for a length of 1/4” HT chain which seems best suited as a piece of jewelry to me. Don’t want to much weight in the bow but weight is a partly why you use a length of chain. What anchors have you used? What size and length of chain and line etc? Lots of the nylon line on the market is made in China such as the SEADOG brand. Any experience with the quality? Any input? Thanks. Ken
  8. Last week
  9. Thanks for the update Graham. I put the photo of the swivel on my phone. I could check around here to see if I could find someone who could machine them. Is it just the core that we need? Is that 2 1/2 or 3 inches long? What size are the bearings? How many would you want? Probably would be massively expensive but it won't hurt to ask around.
  10. Hi Joe, I like it. It is still a work in progress. I am happy with the deign but I have not solved the production procedures. I am now making the body out of Uhmw plastic which we can cnc cut. I made up a cutter to machine the scores for the bearings. That all works okay, the issue is the stainless steel center. Our lathe is old and it takes a lot of time to make to the precision that I want. We do not have a mill so I have to grind the flats by eye and drill the shackle holes. Maybe if I switch the center to bronze it would be easier to make and accept that it will tarnish. If we could find a machine shop that could crank out a few at a reasonable price would be good. Alan used Carlita's swivel in the EC and it held up well. Work has got in the way of play and I have not used on Carlita this year.
  11. Graham I am thinking about adding a furler to make it easier to deploy and retrieve my spinnaker. I have looked around and the top down furlers available are for larger boats. The Ronstan 60 series furler goes for around $300. but it needs an adapter swivel to make it top down. Are you still pleased with your modified Ronstan 60 furler. Did your adapter go into production?
  12. Don -- It takes a lot of thinking and trial-erra-try-again & again to "get-it-right." Or something close to it. My concept of the hook & rope rig is going to work out -- but it needs a better understanding and somelot refinements. Lifting the bow-half out of the stern-is much easier than lifting the stern-half off of the bow-half. If you have the space (overhead), it's easier to first tilt them (while nested) up with the nesting bulkheads down and level. Then the bow-half can easily be slid out of the stern-half. This weekend I'll try various improvements and post resulting photos.
  13. That’s so darn salty and nautical looking I can almost hear your boat creaking happily and wavelets tinkle the hull as a loon calls out on a cool evening! Toll 8 bells and break out the banjo!
  14. Ok Sports Fans; One time as a young Petty Officer I was asked by a crusty old Master Chief, “How would I go about eating an elephant?”. The answer, plainly enough has been incorporated into my ethos and one of my watchwords. Just the same, thank you for saying the encouraging thoughts. Although Im physically alone during this build, I can state with confidence I feel more connected to the collective consciousness of boat builders far and wide. This has been a goal/dream since a cold January day in Holland, Michigan back in 2004. Im at the point where I’m finger scarfing the sheer strake which got me started on the whole Center of Buoyancy question. I must admit I enjoy talking theories and developing scenarios to apply them. Any rate after sleeping on it and chewing on the idea I did a rough calculation which showed there’s not nearly the significant amount to affect buoyancy thus change the stability curve. I estimated 4 cu/ft of volume within the cockpit coaming/sheer strake area. The equation shows a result of 1138.5 Newton’s of force with 256 lbs of displaced fluid. Initially I found this interesting however as Alan stated earlier the water ballast however is by far the largest determinant factor. Further observation is location, location, location. That amount of force is seemingly a good thing but is it in the desired location? As mentioned above, just how would it play out if the boat turns turtle, la saman Allah. I’ve learned in other reading where buoyancy placed incorrectly had negative and fatal results. So as it stands I’m doning respirator, goggles, gloves and headphones, (PPE) and recommencing sanding ops. On a final note I’m finding the random orbital sander used together with the 1/4 sheet oscillating sander does a good job fairing the scarfs. KIWTG. No relation just a salty old Jack.
  15. Beautiful oil lamp! I’m jealous. In my old engineering circles we used to jokingly say “Get it right the second time.” You’ll be glad you made the modification long after the one week delay has been forgotten.
  16. Pete- now you’ve got me thinking about my Two Paw 8. The plan is to have it in the bed of my pickup truck. Now I’m wondering about that first lift— the bow section out of the stern section, while it’s still in the truck. That’s gonna be interesting.
  17. @Todd Stein— my first stitch and glue project was a Willow kayak featured in Woodenboat magazine (a three part series). I kept telling myself that it was “only” 95 simple steps. Your project has a few more than 95, but the approach is the same. Try not to look at the whole big picture. Focus on the next 5 steps. Enjoy the journey! We’re as good as there, building with you. (You’re always alone when it comes to the sanding steps, though.). By the way— I still have your military blanket. See you in October.
  18. That is fair. And remember, I've sailed a Sea Pearl 21 for 12 years without capsizing and there isn't any chance of recovery if I go over. I'm not worried.
  19. Hahaha, it's something we've been thinking hard about. Steve, I agree it would be nice to have some kind of prevention line on the centerboard but on the flip side it's a rare enough event for a regular Core Sound to capsize let alone a Mark 3 Core Sound so it wasn't a top concern in the design process and Graham I think still isn't convinced it's necessary.
  20. Todd, you asked just the right question to elicit some cool info from Alan; well-done!
  21. After watching the CS17.3 video it seems like a way to get the centerboard extracted easily while the boat is on it's side is important as well as a way to lock the board out and prevent it from fully retracting.
  22. The weather here has been very lousy. I don't have the boat waterproof enough to leave outside, so work has been a bit slowed because I need to roll it out of my garage to put the masts up. But my dumb mistake on the mizzen tabernacle is almost over. My son Teddy helped me tip up the mast and mark it's proper location. I made a little template to rout the mast step into the base and routed the base last night........it came out nice. If fits snug and I think by this weekend we'll be past this self made problem. Unfortunately I'll be gone for a week on a family vacation out west and momentum will stop until I get back June 3rd, but I'd like to get past this before I go. I have a trip scheduled to go to Lake Champlain. At the rate I'm going it might be with my Sea Pearl, which is frustrating. Between work, HS track meets and honey-do's, time has been scarce. On a real positive note my good friend Doug bought me a oil lamp. Here it is hanging in the cabin. Up in Maine last year on his Cornish Shrimper we used his lamp to take the chill off the cabin. I'm super excited to have this aboard. Last night I snuck out in a totally dark garage to light it and it really makes a cozy cabin. I know y'all southerners don't need any heat in the cabin, but up here the evenings get cool and on a small boat this is the ticket. Thank you Doug!
  23. Have not tried poly on it so no idea.
  24. I didn't wait a week to apply some heat. It did shrink but didn't last long. Do you know of any other polyurethane that will work?
  25. Recently had someone that used Coelan and had the same thing happen so I added a warning to that page. But the good news is a week latter they tried heating it and it shrunk back to size and pulled tight. Haven't hear any more so I assume it stayed tight. You might want to try it as you have nothing to loose. But as you said, you should ALWAYS test a finish on scrap first.
  26. I repeated myself a little bit but it's worth repeating since this is an area that you will not be able to ever work on again without much difficulty!
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