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  1. Today
  2. When you upload an image, you can later insert it between text: By positioning your cursor where you want to insert the image and then clicking the image. Here's a short video showing it: http://screenshot.ontrapedia.com/public/fhagan/194f95df-cbe6-412d-a7a2-2002d9cb37431574174805.mp4
  3. Frank, I want to post a thread on the B&B page. It will be step-by-step instructions, containing photos with text in-between. When I’ve posted multiple photos in the past, it puts the photos all together at the end. Is there a way to insert text in-between them? Can I write it in Word, and paste it in? How can I do this?
  4. Hi Lotus, Many thanks for the info and pics - thats exactly what I was hoping to achieve (either a front or rear opening).
  5. Thanks for the tip on the Electric Boats book Chick. You might find that 40# handy in wind/current. Hope to get the Amanda hull in the water in FL by Jan and get some detailed numbers with my 55# MK max. Also some data on the old 16# and 12# mini motors I plan to try on wife's 9' Hobie Mirage Sport yak, and my 14' Kevlar canoe. LiPO's discharge curve is a challenge due to the rapid drop-off at the end of charge. Randy's 2 batts almost essential or some very accurate metering scheme. This old dog really needs the ~40-50% battery weight reduction though. Be good to see any numbers anyone can get on their boats when time and weather permits :-). Tks, Rick
  6. Yesterday
  7. What I asked is clear. No opinions were offered from me. I did not ask anyone to evaluate the Australian builder I am using although they have many successful aluminum boats as well as provide extensive hands on training for prospective builders. I understand and stated that boats or kits shipping from Australia may too much for many in the USA. The questions were only related to what issues wooden boat builders might have with aluminum as a material.
  8. edited to remove related comments pertaining to aluminum. Cheers.
  9. I posted this thread with the thought that wooden boat builders would have some thoughts about aluminum as a viable and practical material for a Bluejacket. So far, none have expressed any thoughts along those lines, such as: What are opinions of aluminum versus plywood as a boat material? That is, not regarding the obvious ones of building expertise or price. What are the issues in contemplating an aluminum boat for the average home builder? Which is more desirable aesthetically? Which would you rather own? Which is less maintenance? Anything else?
  10. I have a 90 etec on a 22 Simmons with the same vibration issue at idle. Of course its one of the same linage of your engine. Its my understanding that they have updated the engines and they are better. Thxs
  11. Great work Lenm and nice looking console ! Karnic 1851 boats have a center console that can easily accommodate a person under it when opened from the front side . Maybe you can do some google search about it. The front seat of the console can be opened forward with part of the flooring with it
  12. Never really tracked the fuel consumption accurate. In general I get according to the gps around 3.3 mpg at speeds above 6-7 mph.. It doesn't seem to make much difference what speed I'm going. The top is about 21 mph. Weight full of liquids must be close to 4400 lbs. Engine is a 75 hp Evinrude. Propeller 14 x 13. That should be a 14 x 11, the 13 doesn't get to the rated rpm for that engine. The big problem I have with that engine is the vibration at idle speeds. Going anywhere at no wake speeds is horrible. Going at a speed where the vibration stops results in people yelling an gesturing at me. I am changing the 2 stroke oil to the xd100 which will be equivalent to 100 to 1 mix. Also need to take it to a different dealer for service. Previous one blamed it on my gas. They replaced filters and the result was no improvement. The engine shakes at idle speed even without the gear engaged.
  13. Last week
  14. Thanks very much for the reply - I am sort of kicking the idea around although I have not done any welding in years and have never welded aluminum at all. Still I am not too bad with a torch and I am pretty confident I could get my head around a MIG setup. My best friend is actually a welder, although he lives on the mainland and probably couldn't be relied on for actual welding work, I am pretty sure he could help me get rolling. I have a set of Marissa plans here and my intent was to build a normal version but when I think about an aluminum one I just think that would be a fantastic platform for fishing here - just hauling crab traps alone, the ruggedness of aluminum is kind of tempting. And since guys often end up putting 40-60 horse motors I think an extra couple of hundred pounds of hull weight might not be too much of a problem. With the lighter framing, as you say, the increase might not be too great. I hate to pester with questions that are a little outside the original design but how do you feel about the spacing of the stringers in terms of supporting the aluminum hull? Glassed ply is pretty rigid - do you have thoughts about whether intermediate longtitudinal stiffeners might be necessary, between the stringers say, or between the inboard stringer and keel? My understanding is that the framing of aluminum boats is ordinarily almost entirely longtitudinal, to avoid the "starved horse" look as the plates get pummeled in, but then the Marissa already has four stringers and a keel, plus the chine steps which I think would be quite rigid...just ballparking it in my head the egg crating of the hull looks like it would support the slightly floppier aluminum pretty well, certainly more so than if it had been designed with a single stringer per side and no keelson (if I am using that term correctly). Instinctively I feel that if the transverse framing was rebated so that rather than contacting the hull, it only connected the longtitudinal supports, and that if the side stringer was turned into something like a 2"x .100 stiffener, the whole structure would be very close already. But maybe even the transverse frames are fine as is, I'm not sure. There are some aluminum boat manufacturers around me...maybe I will request a tour and see if I can gather any ideas about how they are framing up their lighter boats. I might also pick up Stephen Pollard's book on aluminum boat building. Well, thank you for humouring my idea...if you have any further thoughts on it I assure you I'll be paying rapt attention!
  15. Looking very nice Lenm. It really starts to look like something when those gunwhales start coming into play. I am just waiting on my gastank before i can get the console in seems to be taking the guy a while
  16. Hi Cracked Ribs. There is absolutely no reason why you could not build an aluminum Marissa. It will be heavier, the CS17 built in Alaska finished out at 700# which is at least 50% heavier than a wood version. Aluminum size for size is about 6 times heavier than okume ply. As you suggest 1/8" is a good starting point, it will be about twice as heavy as 9mm okume ply. That is aluminum's finished weight for the shell whereas the ply has to be glassed, coated with epoxy and painted plus the fact that the framing can be less. Which will probably come out about 50% heavier than the bare Marissa hull but you are talking about a very light boat. An all welded aluminum boat is about as tough and as maintenance free as it gets. You are right, the Pacific North West is aluminum boat country, it seems that work boats are not built from anything else except for maybe tugs where weight is probably positive. CS17 hull #1 was built in aluminum in New Mexico, I got to sail her in Florida and she performed quite well. About a decade or so ago I was hired to take a 50 footer from California to Puerto Vallata in Mexico. One of the incentives for taking the job was that hull #1 was residing a short drive north of PV. I had a great visit with the builder who is one of my favorite people and hull #1 was living on the beach along with the local Panga's. The owner was still enjoying her, saying that she was the best fishing machine he had ever owned, he would trim her for a beam reach to sail herself and was totally stealthy as he trolled to and fro for game fish. He laughed that he usually outfished the charter boats burning hundreds of gallons of fuel a day. She had not spent a day of her life under shelter and I will bet that she is still going strong. The second CS17 built in aluminum was in Alaska,. Here is one of his posts on this forum. You can search for the rest of his build. He said that 6065 was marine grade aluminum which is incorrect. The 5000 series is the marine grade. 5083 is a popular but not the only choice. styge Advanced Member Members 0 48 posts Location: Juneau, Alaska Report post Posted February 19, 2007 The weight of the boat is around 700lbs. So you won't be dragging it up any sandy beaches, but it doesn't sound like that will be a problem. As for building one, it may be easier to get a guy who's been welding, (and in particular, welding boats) for a while. I thought about doing the welding myself, but I figured my finished project should probably not be my practice piece, that gets expensive. It was all I could do to keeps up with my guy. I was cutting and grinding and he was welding, welding, welding! But it turned out great. If you decide to proceed with it, online metal in seattle is great for souring the aluminum, and they were happy to deliver it to Alaska Marine Lines to get barged up here. I went with 6065, I think, its a good marine grand and is a little more pliable (which isn't saying much) than other better grade. I have originally thought I would just do the hull and fit out everything inside in wood, but once the project was underway and we had a flow to the build process, it just seemed (at the time) to make sense carrying on in alumnium. The panels were coming together at a rapid rate, and I'm not the patient type, plus every additional panel meant less maintenance. Right now the only wood to be found on the boat is the tiller! Anyway let me know if you decide to proceed as there are a few things I would have done differently were I to do another one. Regards Styge Smith Juneau, AK
  17. I can't find my plans and I can't remember how thick the hull panels are. My mind thinks 9mm, but I'd like an official answer. You will see why soon enough
  18. This is kind of an idle question, but locally to me aluminum is by far the most desirable boat material. The thought occurs that the Marissa, being plywood panels rather than cold moulded, could in theory be welded from aluminum. I did see where someone had built I think a CK17 from aluminum and it was quite heavy, but I wonder if a Marissa could be done from 1/8 with longitudinal stiffeners in place of the existing framing and end up fairly similar in weight? It might be the the stiffeners would need tighter spacing but then again, maybe not. Anyway just curious to see if any builders or prospective builders had taken a look at the idea in any depth, or if anyone at B&B had ever looked into aluminum as a medium.
  19. Thanks Riggs. You must be getting close to finishing yours? I am relieved to get the anchor locker finished.. Very confined space with lots of tight corners. I know 3 coats of epoxy is good enough but I can't help myself - ended up filleting, glassing and flow coating the lot. Also created some solid glass sections in the gunnels for the fuel filler and flush rod holders. Im thinking this will save the hassle of needing to seal edges of ply after holesawing. One of the constraints for my project is the request for a head/toilet from the wife. Not so easy on a 20 footer as a console could get so big it detracts from the appearance of the boat. I have come up with low profile design (43" above deck) but leaves enough head high to squeeze into when you step down into the hull. I hope it looks ok on the boat..
  20. On the centerboard, I just glued the seat down, drilled a small hole inside the trunk slot, then ran a router through it. Small holes in the frames I did with a Dremel and a small burr grinder.
  21. I've considered electric power for my "motor canoe". I have a motor, but it's a lot bigger than I need. 40# thrust, but "ya use watcha got". I would carry 2 batteries for the range. It has a rheostat speed control which is vary inefficient. Better to have a modulated pulse control like the more expensive motors. Great book about all of this is Electric Boats: The Handbook of Clean, Quiet Boating by Douglas Little.
  22. Egbert, now that you have your boat loaded to the hilt and your boat has some hours on it now in a wide variety of conditions, can you post your performance numbers, fuel burn, speeds and the likes? Thxs
  23. I know some facts Egbert, but am waiting to get more definitive data after the boat has completed construction and trials. Each model will be somewhat heavier but I don't think it will be as great a change as I originally feared. This is due to my assessment of the knowledge and skill of Plate Alloy in use of aluminum in building boats. Some features of the Bluejacket design are effective in mitigating increase weight. Probably foremost of these is the large water plane and buoyancy that offer a much lower bottom loading in weight per square area compared to other boats. At least in these boats, less weight means more performance while using less power and fuel than commercially available options. For those who have a desire to build or have a wooden boat, I don't think the aluminum version will be a great deterrent to building the current wooden model. For those with less time, space or opportunity to build their own, as well as finances to buy a more expensive aluminum one, availability of a commercial Bluejacket will be a positive. For my part, I still favor the current wooded model because I just like the ability to build my own.
  24. Looks like an interesting project. Do you know the specs on this one like the weight and the length? Also noted the cockpit door and a railing. Egbert
  25. To continue the slaughter of the language, it snew 4' in October by us. And our kids experienced exactly 1 snow day during their entire school careers, when the power was shut down and the heat wouldn't come up. Life at 8000'+ in a ski resort (Vail). 😉 But I grew up in upstate NY, and have been in NH the last few weeks helping my folks out, and there really is no cold like Northeast cold. In CO it's usually dry, bright and sunny even when we have many feet of snow underfoot - here it's bare at the moment but that humid, frozen wind just cuts right through you. So Steve, the end of your season makes sense. May it resume on time next year.
  26. Rick, CS15 and CS17 form drag is identical and we're moving below hull speed so my guess is it will be all about wetted surface area. I think you might to 3.5 knots. In any case I'm sure it will be faster than you can row. Chuck has an excellent point about these batteries. You use all their energy than boom, they're dead. I think two batteries makes sense and am considering adding a second identical battery as reserve. We'll see what Santa thinks about it.
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