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  2. Just finished a 225 nm trip from Point Judith Rhode Island to Nantucket by way of the Elizabeth Islands and Martha's Vineyard. Been thinking about this trip for awhile and decided to go for it. Longest solo trip in my EC 22 Skorpa, six days 225 miles. Beautiful area with strong, complex currents, and numerous shoals. Video is from last day heading down Vineyard Sound. I was sailing on a reach with 15-18 knots winds. I was running between 8 and 9 knots when the video was taken went to 11 knots shortly after that. It does not get much better. Thanks Graham for designing such a beautiful boat and inspiring me to build it and sail it. The photos are the marsh at Cape Poge Bay, Chappaquiddick Island, Brandt Point Light Nantucket, Skorpa along the beach at Brandt Point, and Sunset over Woods Hole. Naushon_Island_Vineyard_Sound.mp4
  3. Today
  4. The book got here Friday, gonna find some suitable paper and begin drafting the plans!
  5. That looks very nice.
  6. Mark, I just remembered that I hadn't answered your questions. So,... The Suzuki was a 2.5 regular length (15") shaft and it fit nicely into the cockpit locker -- but not an easy task for an 85 yr old. I made a "cradle" for it in order to keep its tiller-down as recommend by Suzuki. Otherwise you'll get oil into the cylinder chamber. The 2.5 hp is enough to push the CS20.3 to 5 knots. The wash plate just cleared the bottom of the transom which allowed 360 degree rotation (for reverse). However, in chop or big wake, there was often cavitation. I now have a 4 hp Honda (long shaft) with a reverse gear and 9 amp alternator to keep the battery fully charged -- because as a solo sailor I often use a tiller-pilot which draws fairly heavily on the battery. I still have the Suzuki as a standby. The well is 9" fore & aft x 10". Its depth is 5" at the transom sloping up to about 1" at the forward edge. The transom cutout is about 1" deep and the top-aft edge of the engine mounting block (~ 1.5" thick) is 5" from the transom. It needed to be that far out because the transom has a forward tilt and the Suzuki's shaft is already set at ~ 5 degrees out from a vertical transom (I think Suzuki assumes that most transom have a slight aft tilt). So, in order to keep the OBM shaft vertical, the mounting block is set at about 10 degrees with respect to the transom.
  7. I Searched the inventory on the website for the supplier in Austin. They describe their 1/2" marine ply as: Grade 6566, Imported, Core Veneers (species not specified), and Aquatek-Meranti. This would the $105/sheet stuff. From what read that night about the BS 6566 and 1088 standards, I don't think am very impressed this stuff. Especially for the cost. They do have some 1088 grade but, only in 1/4". For some reason I had some, almost "mystical" impression in my little brain about the Baltic Birch plywood. BUT when Dave mentioned, above, that it is commonly used for cabinetry, I began to unlock myself a little. Thanks Dave!! I was clear to me that you guys get very good results with the Baltic ply but struggled to understand how. It's cabinet plywood, intended for interior use, right?..... and you folks are using to build boats. That just don't make no sense at all. Then I found that that it is constructed with WATERPROOF GLUE! AH-HAH!! Now I understand, a little better, why it works so well for you guys. And guess what.... My store in Austin sells a Baltic Birch cabinet plywood as described below. Sounds very familiar, doesnt it? I called yesterday to check the price...... 1/2", 5'×5' sheet, right around $27. 1/2" Grade Size Origin Color Core Cut Note BB/BB- 5x5 Russia - BB - Baltic Birch Core RC - Rotary Cut Contains limited football patches in both sides Now all I need is to go by me some ply, some cypress lumber and get to work...... after I get a few other projects around the house wrapped up that is. Thanks for the guidance and the patience folks. Marty
  8. Quick update: the stem inside and out received a layer of glass tape. I cut pieces of glass to fit first then laid them out on a piece of plastic I had on the floor. Un-thickened epoxy was brushed on the inside and outside of the stem. I then wetted our the glass on the floor until it went translucent. I used double latex gloves so that after handling the glass tape, I peeled them off and had gloves for the brush work, etc. I also slightly cut the ends of the chip brushes to stiffen the bristles. This also allowed me to move the glass tape by gently pressing into it at an angle and forcing it to slide. I had a little trouble with the bow eye stiffener - I probably should have waited and glasses this piece separately or just glasses up the inside of the stem, then adding this stiffener block after. Oh well. I removed the centerboard and wire ties along the bottom, finished the gaps with thickened epoxy, then sanded smooth in preparation for the two layers of 3” glass tape along the keel. I drew two parallel lines 2” off the center line. This will allow each piece of tape to overlay by an inch and thought this would make the tape job neat in places that will be seen.
  9. Yesterday
  10. Started fiberglassing with the transom yesterday. I went with a 400gram 45 degree opposed stitched cloth. With 2 coats of neat epoxy over that once they were tacky between each coats.
  11. Doggone, I could only get the last video to run.
  12. Don, I'll definitely take you up on sailing your BRS 15 at the Messabout in October. I plan to be there showing off Chessie -- hoping to impress potential buyers who may want a CS20.3 without investing two years of sanding and poxy work.
  13. It is A/B Fir plywood with paper surfaces laminated onto one or both sides. The paper sides are perfectly smooth and ready for primer, the core is identical to C/D ext., aka house sheathing. If you cut it carefully, you will get a smooth both sides frame that is seriously structurally deficient.
  14. I have never seen or used MDO. I have people talk about it and while it sounds good, I have tried a few things that sounded good but didn't work out so good in the long term. Can't recommend it at this point.
  15. Nick, the end roller will be a 5" one like the others. There will be guide-ons on each side reaching out to the bunks. It will look something like this: The roller trough will end about 6" aft of the trailer's aft crossbeam. It hasn't been a problem lining up the boat's stem with the trough centerline. BTW, I've found the wooden trough gets torn up by the ss oh wood screws that attach the 3/4" half oval to the keel batten. Here's the link to the wooden trough build. The concept worked just fine until after a few launches and recoveries. That's why I'm building the roller trough.
  16. Yup, jetboil. Boils 2 cups in 2 min.
  17. Lovely video! Is that a jetboil stove?
  18. Great stuff, Pete. I am in the process of refurbishing a trailer for my CS20 Mk1 and your design ideas and photos are very timely. I was thinking about some kind of keel "trough" and yours looks like I could make it work well on my trailer. I also have the advantage (?) of being in build mode at the stage of glassing the hull and installing the keel, so I think I will build my trough while the boat is upside down and I can adjust the roller positions and test the fit pretty easily. What will be at the entry of the trough? A 5" roller at the end or will you have a wider or different type of roller? About FG and epoxy, my thinking is 5/4 PT pine screwed and glued together will be fine as is. But I will be very interested in other suggestions posted. Thanks for posting, and for the photos.
  19. Last week
  20. Thanks for sharing, Chick, nice writing - and nice pics as usual. I have bought an inflatable kayak meanwhile (sorry - I know, this is a boatbuilding forum - but anyway) in which I was paddling on a small river in northern Germany in our vacation. A cormorant swam before me and dived as I approached. Unfortunately he dived in the same direction as I was paddling. And so he was annoyed to see me even closer when he came to the surface again. This happened 3 or 4 times until he finally surfaced behind me and felt safe.
  21. Thank you Frank for sharing this wonderful story - tear in my eye too Tobias
  22. 20190822_185801.mp4 20190822_185908.mp4 Okay, the trip begins. I'm in Spring Lake, Michigan, near my daughter's. Stayed out on the boat two nights, once in a corner of the lake and once under the bridge and up the bayou. Couldn't resist sailing under the bridge when I had a fair wind.... 20190822_185801.mp4 20190822_185908.mp4
  23. Congratulations to you both, Amos and Lara. Well done.
  24. I stuffed a piece of foam I cut from a old kick-board and shoved them in the back part of the forward end of the coamings to prevent things from sliding backward. Those cabbies are really handy. I'm not sure about plugging them permanently. I'd guess if you ever turtled (not likely) having that flotation that high might be problematic. I'd want to get Graham or Alan's blessing first. As for oars I'm with Amos. I'm will eventually get to that. I didn't want to cut down the coamings as I might be tall enough to not need to. In the meantime I have a three piece collapsble SUP paddle that worked pretty good in my one time use of it. I tried a regular canoe paddle and it was too short. I'm going to put some clips on the port side of the cabin roof to hold it so it's handy. My plan when I make oars is to use the DuckWorks carbon fiber connectors to make them two piece. For storage I'm going to put a port in the left aft bulkhead. To store the oars, remove the port, slide the pieces into the aft storage and then once they clear the seat hatch, slide them aft and then close the port. In theory this should work, but I think my oar length becomes limited to the storage locker length which I think is 5.5 feet. I'll measure first.
  25. I'm not sure how well the boat rows. I do plan to row the boat, but I do not have oars yet. I plan on building my own two-piece oars utilizing a ferule from Duckworks. I left the coamings open. I do store stuff in the forward end of the coamings.
  26. Beautiful name Amos. I am curious to know if you have rowed your boat much, I'm not as strong as I used to be and trying to figure out if it's worth leaving the cockpit coaming open for oar storage or just closing it off permanently for added buoyancy and storage up front for misc. gear? A imagine a 20' boat would not be easy, I've rowed a 16' Aluminum boat about a mile when I was in my 20s now I'm in my 50s and it doesn't sound like fun! I've been combing the internet for pedal powered propulsion system and found a couple I might try. Any thoughts would be appreciated. I've just started fitting my inwales and cockpit sides.
  27. Yes, I have......Super busy building a new business but I have all the hardware and just ordered the sail. I should start painting this week. I will post some pictures when I can.
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