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  1. Today
  2. Thanks Egbert. Yes, after all this time I had not been able to stand back and see her in profile. Made me a happy man! I have installed the motor and will bring it to the local outboard shop on Tuesday for then to put in oil and start the motor for the first time. That was the agreement I made in order for them to let me do my own installation. I will get more pics up soon.
  3. Isn't it something to see the whole boat for the first time. Congratulations on this milestone. Egbert
  4. Yesterday
  5. Thanks for the encouragement. I started in January this year. I had the plans one year prior to then, but couldn't start as I had a speed bump in the form of building a new 10.5m x 7m shed to build her in. And every man needs a beer chair in his shead! Cheers Casey.
  6. Last week
  7. The curves you put in the aft end of the coamings look great; it really compliments the lines of the boat. I wouldn't be surprised if future builders duplicate them.
  8. Hi Bob, I can vouch for the OB-20's style, performance and all round fine sea keeping ability. I have used mine in the creeks, across the bay and around Magnetic island (just off shore from home). With Grahams blessing and advice, I ended up putting a 70hp on mine and with 6 people in it, will sit on 20 knots @ 3900-4100 RPM (depending on sea conditions). Other 20Ft glass boats have 150 Hp upwards on them. For my use in the waters around Townsville, she has turned out to be a great boat and a real head turner at the ramp. My advice???? just do it!
  9. I also like the chair, need to get one of those in my shop. And the boat looks great too!
  10. Looks like you are off and running. Looks great and i gotta love the chair for kicking back and viewing the days work
  11. Good to see your back on the job Riggs👍
  12. Whatever the longest piece is is what i was going to make. I think its about 36"
  13. Thanks for doing the leg work just the same, I’ll do my utmost to follow the instructions and fabricate. What master length piece do you suggest working with?
  14. Well after a rather long break from boat building ( I was going rather fibreglass crazy 🤣) also had a few things around the house to tend to i am back on the OC 20B . After a good dusting it was back into the bilge to finish out glassing the interior. Also i have cut the shear clamp back to allow the fordeck and gunwhales to go on and am starting to think about foaming in under the deck so as to get it in and myself alot more comfortable when working in there. Anyone know of a good product for a liquid foam? it is a first for me. Personally i am thrilled to be out of the bilge. Next task is gonna be a right good sanding of the bulwarks before priming. Then a trip to New Orleans to pickup the last of the ply for deck, fishbox and combings ETC.
  15. I've tested four coatings that I had in my paint cabinet from various projects. Ace polyurethane, Minwax polyurethane, Minwax spar urethane (which I think is another term for polyurethane), and Man O' War marine spar varnish. All the coatings worked with the 9 oz material. I'm going to go with the Man O' War varnish, my paint store mentioned that the spar varnish will be more flexible than a interior/exterior polyurethane. So it could be that Zar and Coelan are maybe the only two coatings not compatible with the 9 oz material.
  16. Alan, The torsion rope I have looked at is expensive and heavy 9mm. The Ronstan 80 series has an optional lashing pin at the top swivel. To increase torque I presume you run the paired line to the outside? The series 80 lashing pin won't fit series 60 top swivel. Perhaps a lashing pin could be improvised. After rereading your post I see you are using a paired 3/8 inch line. It is difficult to argue that a single 9mm line is heavier.
  17. Hi Bob, Well i think you are very wise to consider building one in the first place! Know that you'll have plenty of support from us here on the forum. I would checkout the dutch OB 20 build thread for a step by step guide on best practices. -Alan
  18. Thank you Ken, you've seen the website and am impressed
  19. My camera does some optical illusion, but trust me, finally parallel masts. A great day of gardening and other stuff yesterday. This morning I got the mizzen tabernacle faired and tonight I'll check it for smoothness and prime it.
  20. The main problem we had with this year in the EC on Southern Skimmer was with the torque line. We were just using a twisted pair of 3/8" double braid line to transmit the torque to the top of the luff the problems come with furling in higher winds it takes a lot of torque to get the sail to start wrapping and then when the sail is half furled the torque required is much less so a lot of twists are built up in the torque line and then they are relieved inside the rolled up sail which causes a bunch of wraps in the wrong direction at the top so then when you go to unfurl it gets all fouled at the top until you can shake the twists out. Part of the problem is that the free standing mast can't generate as much tension in the torque line as a stayed rig can so the torque line is never really super taught even with the backstays full on. So if the torque line doesn't have enough tension it can more easily twist leading to the above scenario or even worse it could pigtail. I don't know what it would cost to have a piece of proper top down furling torque line made up for the boat but I think it might be worth it. They make fancy braided and wrapped torque line exactly for this.
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