Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Today
  2. Any thought on doing something like this Jeff?
  3. Got to launch her yesterday. Connecting a new boat to water for the first time is always a wonderful experience. As expected, the Kendrift design seems like a winner. I have a few tweaks to take care of such as fine tuning oar length and oar lock position And mounting fendering. . Did a solo row and one with Luanne aboard. She moves through the water nicely, is very stable and looks great. Can’t ask for much more from a 9’ tender.
  4. Yesterday
  5. You guys and your stories... Please keep ‘em coming!
  6. Darn! And you were so close to having a pony tail! (I keep mine short, too.)
  7. I’ve touched up my fillets, to make ‘em pretty. I have a little mire sanding to do, before the next step. Q: What’s the next step? This seat will live in a garage for 99% of its life. I don’t think I need to apply numerous coats of epoxy. I want to apply about four or five coats of cheap Minwax polyurethane. That should do it. What do you think?
  8. Thank you for your ideas. I will see if I can source a sample of Shelter-rite on this side of the pond. I like the noodle idea too. Not a lot of weight and plenty of buoyancy. I might stick some in the aft buoyancy tanks - just in case there is a catastrophic delamination 😳
  9. What about a "collar" of pool noodles? Cheap, easy to work with, could be strung around the hull with a line through their centers, etc. From what I could find on the internet a 3"noodle provides 2-2.25 pounds of flotation per running foot. SO I replaced the 40 year old bags of popcorn styrofoam in my Drascombe Dabber ( "Daphne" who is Petunia's sibling...) and added approximately 350 pounds of flotation. I have one of the Duckworks boat rollers which Paul suggests, but because of it's girth I can't imagine HOW you'd incorporate it into a dinghy situation...You can even pair the noodles to get double the flotation without adding much more weight, or volume...
  10. I made some air bags for a SOF kayak from a material from Sailrite called Shelter-rite. I glued with a contact cement HH-66. It is pretty easy, I just cut the material with a 1 inch glue seam around the perimeter, ya put the glue on as smoothly as you can on both sides, let it completely dry, place your seems together, get everything aligned as you want it then use a heat gun and a wall paper roller to stick them together. Found the air valves from a old pvc dingy but they are easy to find. I was amazed it was/is relatively air-tite. I had some tire slime that I put in to seal any leaks but I wouldn’t do that again, what a mess that stuff is! The whole project cost about $25 bucks, and it will stay airtight for 2-3 days before it needs a top-off.
  11. You're right about sewing an airtight seal. Tricky unless it's taped. The yellow inflatable in the photo is a pvc boat roller. I got a couple to assist in putting the N11 on a roof rack. I thought it would be easier to roll the boat on the roller before deflating on to the roof rack. I need a hand with how to attach the canvas tubes (with boat roller inner tubes) to the gunwhale. The only photo of the Add-a-buoy shows it laced together round the transom. Along with this I thought tying it through a couple of holes in the gunwhale would hold it in place and it would be firmly secured at the bow by the tow D ring and bow painter hole. Trouble is I've never seen one so I'm not sure. If the tube just rides up it could be secured by passing a tie under the boat (not hydrodynamic) or adding a couple of attachment points along a rubbing strake on the hull. Perhaps a flat piece of webbing tape could be sandwiched between the hulls during assembly? Any ideas gratefully received!
  12. Boat rollers from Duckworks may be worth a look for you. Many use them for flotation once off the beach. I think sewing something to be airtight could be difficult.
  13. A quick request for comments and suggestions please - I while back I was reading one of Lin and Larry Pardy's books where they were waxing lyrical about their Fatty Knees tender. Larry had added a floatation collar, an 'add-a-buoy' (which has a nice ring to it). I have searched high and low without success. A while back I stitched up a canvas washing dryer cover. The thought occurred to me that I could do something similar for the N11. A bit of extra buoyancy when using her as a swim/dive platform with the added advantage of a giant fender. Has anyone seen anything similar available commercially?
  14. Make sure you use nitrile gloves as most others allow penetration of resin pretty quickly Cheers Peter HK
  15. Last week
  16. Feeling Better After a couple days away from epoxy work I am beginning to feel better. It will be 8-10 more days before safety equipment I ordered will be here, so no epoxy attempts will occur until then. It took a bit of searching but, among other things, I found inexpensive 10 foot lengths of air tubing that I could connect together for a remote “forced air supply.” I plan to use an old backup cpap machine located outside the garage with 20 or 30 feet of tubing into a face mask. Full body paint suits with gloves will also be used when I return to epoxy work. Maybe the precautions will work. In the meantime, I could identify a dozen “sub-projects” for the boat that don’t involve epoxy... and a few around-the-house things calling out to me. I will begin these things tomorrow. And, for novelty’s sake, the person who has cut my hair for the past twenty years opened her salon. My hair was feeling a bit like the old college days. My photo for the day 😄: Wow! Not much on the top there.
  17. Well, boys and girls, it got very abrasive in the workshop today. I sanded down all my lumps and bumps from when I went crazy with dookie schmutz. (A Nick Schade term for thickened epoxy.) I relearned the importance of doing neat, clean work, since I had to sand off a lot of product. I discovered a couple of holidays, too. Guess I’m going back in with goo, to clean up a couple of spots, and make some corrections. But she looks pretty good. It is also a very comfortable design.
  18. The 5.80 is a single handed, or double handed, ocean racing machine. Everything about the design was aimed at making a seaworthy, tiny, fast boat. Everything else was compromised to get to this. The basic concept was taken from the Mini 6.5. It is a poor design for cruising. By the time you store the sails and other racing and safety gear down below there is no room for any amenities. They don't even have berths. Solo 6.5 racers sleep in the cockpit for 15 minutes at most, or maybe duck below for their 15 minute nap on top of a sail bag stowed to weather. They eat back packing food using portable backpacking stoves to boil the water. They are planing hulls, and designed to be and stay super light weight. As Graham has mentioned, the mechanism for a drop keel would be outrageous to build, or have made. It would be very heavy and expensive. The rig is so tall, that only the bulb at the end of a very deep keel would keep it upright. By the time enough other compromises would be made to accommodate anything else but a deep bulb it would be a completely different boat. It would probably end up a lot like a Mk 3. Damned because it's all related.
  19. This was an enlightening, fun thread to read. Thank you.
  20. A major reason for wanting a lift keel/cruising version of the 5.80 is to reduce the cost of keeping the boat. I find the 5.80 a very enticing design, a wholesome, solid and very capable boat. The kit design and video is an amazing piece of work. However, with a fixed keel, the difficulties involved in keeping the boat look too hard, at least for me. With 1.4m draft it will have to be kept on a mooring or in a berth. However, these are expensive and may not be available. Alternatively one could put the boat on a trailer/jinker and keep the boat on hardstanding but this would need access to a deep ramp or a crane with slings. Better still, if the design incorporated a single lifting point then it could be hoisted in and out of the water, like an Etchell, rather than having to use slings around the hull. However, all these options require access to facilities that are typically only available at the more expensive yacht clubs or marinas. Maybe I am wrong but I fear the cost of keeping a 5.80 may not be that much different from keeping a 30' yacht. I feel this is at odds with the philosophy of a boat that you can build cheaply at home If a cruising/lift keel version of the 5.80 was available it could be kept on a suitably designed trailer with the bulb nestling under the hull. Storage on hardstanding or at home is now easy. The boat can be readily transported to events in different locations. Of course the keel trunk will reduce space in the cabin. However, if one is no longer concerned with meeting the racing specifications the keel could be redesigned with a foil section rather than a plate. This would allow the chord of the keel to be reduced to perhaps 500mm, maybe even less, which would help alleviate this issue. I acknowledge that Don McIntyre may not be keen on fragmenting the 5.80 class but I do feel that a cruising version with a lift keel (and an anchor well!) would be well received.
  21. No calls to my wife but I'm sure my neighbors were watching since they're always outside and have commented (positively) on progress several times. I have to say, I expected it to be fun but I was genuinely unnerved seeing the two halves separated for the first time. I felt better once I bolted it back together. She's structurally complete, I added the quarter knees, the keel and deadwood, and extended the gunwales around onto the transoms (not pictured.) Now it's on to epoxy, and then sanding and painting. There's a push to finish by the end of June for a planned sailing trip so I'm putting off the sailing hardware for now, although I have everything I need to finish.
  22. I got sidetracked on a some other projects and Rosebud was put on the back burner. Finally finished the painting this past week. The Kencrane mast step has been installed. Rosie goes in the water the first week in June and I will get to try out the crane shortly after. I REALLY will launch the Rosebud this week.
  23. I Need To Stop Work Again Dang, dang, dang. A day and a half of working with epoxy again (relatively small amounts) and my skin symptoms intensified, even while still on the medications. It looks like my “hopes” that I was primarily dealing with a poison ivy reaction seem to not be the case. I must indeed have a sensitivity to epoxy. (It looks like social distancing with my boat is in order.) So, I will return to NOT doing boat work... for an unknown duration... thus “suspending” Week 4 again. A respirator should be my first attempt to improve the safety measures but they cannot be found. Earliest shipping date I’ve seen is July.
  1. Load more activity

Supporting Members

Supporting Members can create Clubs, photo Galleries, don't see ads and make messing-about.com possible! Become a Supporting Member - only $12 for the next year. Pay by PayPal or credit card.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.