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  1. Today
  2. Hi Graham , I managed to shift some weight backwards , batteries fuel tank and have installed the auxiliary motor. I have to see how she trim next time I put her in water . Waiting for some good weather. About the prop I was thinking of going to 4 blade prop instead of changing the pitch. At the moment I am running a 3x 16x 20" and goes over 6300 at wot. So either go for 3 bladed 16 x 21.5" or 16 x 23" or the 4 bladed 15.25 x 20" or even 15.25 x 22" . These are the original suzuki props available . I dont mind if I loose a couple of knots at the high end ( this is not a speed boat ) , I am looking for the very best cursing speed and fuel economy at around 3500rpm, An other question is , dose it make sens to go for a counter rotation prop, because the auxiliary motor is installed at port side and the boat leans slightly that side when no one on board . The ap series motor have the selective rotation control function so it is very easy to switch between , just change the prop and a plug in the harness.
  3. Inflatable rafts are quite popular now a days. Rafting is very interesting activity and adding inflatable rafts will increase the fun as well as safety in rafting. Choosing the best quality of inflatable rafts can be difficult as there is a large variety available. One can choose after testing and ensuring safety. https://saturninflatableboats.ca/inflatable-boats/category/inflatable-boats-for-fishing/
  4. Yesterday
  5. We recommend Douglas fir or pine for the keel. I would definitely coat it in epoxy but not fiberglass. The keel is bound to get scraped up and then the glass will make it a nightmare to repair. This was certainly the case when I refinished our CS-20. The glass was just totally useless. This keel was doug fir and held up well for 10 years despite scrapes and cuts etc. I did not replace it just cleaned it up, filled in some spots and re-coated it.
  6. Last week
  7. Tango Skiff 12 Build log notes. #2 All that has gotten done so far on my Tango 12 was to get the hull sprung into shape with the forward bulkhead and a “stick” to push the sheer out to the proper beam. The seams are all “tack welded” with epoxy fillets. Next step is to remove the wires, fillet the gaps, and apply glass tape. Since taking these pictures, the wires have been removed, seams finished filleting, and all seams taped. Now to wait for warm enough days to do the next steps. Isn't summer EVER gonna get here?!
  8. What type of would is recommended for the keel on a Core Sound 17? I have access to just about type but need suggestions. Also, should the keel be glassed, epoxied or varnished? Thanks.
  9. What type of would is recommended for the keel on a Core Sound 17? I have access to just about type but need suggestions. Also, should the keel be glassed, epoxied or varnished? Thanks.
  10. Time flies gentlemen. Here is Teddy, the cute kid sailing the Spindrift 11N in the link in my signature, who turns 18 next week, this past August sailing Skeena.
  11. Uncle Frosty: Nice! So give us a review; how does she paddle compared to other boats you've paddled? Regarding the position of a bow seat, serious canoes sometimes have a bow seat that adjusts fore-and-aft to trim the boat to account for the weights of the stern paddler, the bow paddler, and any gear. They are sometimes known as "slider seats." See example below. Paddle on!
  12. Uncle Frosty, What did she end up weighing? Your build almost has me convinced to build to build one!
  13. Each frame is numbered by it's location in foot and inches. So your can just use the numbers on the plans.
  14. Hi, i'f bought plans for the "long shot" and the "short shot". With the plans came the assembly manuel. Unfortunatly, the resolution of the print is so worse that I am unable to read the correct data for setting up the frames properly. Has everony valid measurement data relating to the "long shot" and the "short shot". Thanx, Thomas
  15. I checked the plans and the cockpit only slopes .8 of one degree. I trimmed the bow down from the stern WL .85 degree which gives you a bow down trim of 3" and a displacement of 2714#. It should take around 800 foot pounds to bring it to trim. Of course this is very rough as we do not have exact trim measurements. When I look at where the water meet the chine the boat shows it further forward than the trimmed down drawing. The boat could also be heeling slightly to the camera.
  16. Aleksandr, You can do whatever you like in the bow section. It is only the aft section that is compromised because it has to have room to take the bow. I have built the standard side seat flotation tanks in the bow.
  17. I have stated this many times that I prefer to leave my lockers unpainted. I like the look of the natural color and enjoy it when I open them. If there if any deterioration going on with the wood I will see it immediately rather than being masked by the paint, not to mention that it is one less job to do. I have never noticed that it is too dark to find my stuff. This is a subject where there are no right or wrong answers.
  18. Thanks, Alan! That compliment means a lot. Can't wait to get it in the water this spring!
  19. Alan, I get a kick when I watch it of how boat trim just wasn't going to deter him from perching out on that tiny seat and the smile when he's at the helm. Ted's a senior in HS now, but this video captures all the good sailing has brought our family. We built the 11N together with the kids doing as much as they could at their young ages. And since Teddy has become an accomplished techy with his own 3-D printer (he's getting a much better one for his 18th birthday the 26th) and the NYS Champ in Nordic Skiing (yes, bragging a bit). This adventure of boat building has been fantastic. I can't thank the folks at B & B and all on this board who have enriched our life.
  20. Earlier
  21. Very nice work. That is shaping up to be a very nice dink.
  22. I think our primary thinking for painting my "locker" (singular for now) was as you said, to make things easier to find plus it makes the space look bigger. We plan to paint the entire inside of the cabin white also.
  23. I guess there is 2 schools of thought, I think it makes it easier to find things inside, easier to wipe it out (easier to see the grit an stuff). The other thought is you can easily see what is going on under the epoxy coating. I painted everything under deck on my CS20.3 with Sherwin Williams Tile Clad, 2 part epoxy. On the current build I am painting but using Total Boat BilgeCoat.
  24. I have been debating whether to paint the lockers, and agree it is unnecessary, but I think it will be easier to find things in them when dark if they are white inside. Hopefully
  25. Here we go again, y'all. I just gotta keep building some dang boat! The reports will be kinda sporatic. I just ain't gonna go out in the "garop" on cold days. i hope this boat will meet our needs for a boat to carry with us when we go camping. The last plan was for the B&B design motor canoe. We found it to just be too tender for us old folks out on the big lakes with the big stink-potters cruising by on half plane and throwing up big "rollers". It will be for sale if any of y'all are interested. If it weren't for the need to use it on the big lakes, we would be very pleased with it. Here’s my report on building my Tango Skiff 12. I’ll stray from the plans a bit to make the boat a “take apart” boat to allow me to stack the two sections in the back of my truck so I can still pull our camper. I’ll also use thinner plywood for the hull construction to save some weight. The bottom is 6mm okoume 1088 marine ply. The sides are 4mm. There will be some stringers added to the bottom to stiffen it. And also, I’ll join the panels with butt joints rather than scarphing the plywood. To top it all off, the ply I’m using is actually 8”-2” long, so I’ll utilize the longer pieces to make the hull a bit longer. There will be some minor changes in the interior layout, too. So far I’ll cut my hull panels and laminated the transom. Today I have the basic hull wired together. Obviously, the outline of the bottom panels where they join the sides had to be modified to account for the added length. A minor change. The hull is out of shape until the bulkheads are installed. Here is the website for the design. http://www.tangoskiff.com/ First picture is of the panels butt joined with glass tape on both sides. Laying out curve where the bottom will join the sides. Second picture is with the panels wired together with baling wire. I like it because it can be twisted to tighten the joint. I made a slight miscalculation on the length of the side panels so the afterplanes will need to be cut back a bit. The transom is moved forward the same amount.
  26. Inflatable boats can be of many sizes. It may depend on the purpose for which inflatable boats are being purchased or hired. A 11 foot inflatable boat can carry many people so it is perfect in case of rafting, fishing in group etc. activities. One can find many colors as well as designs and models of inflatable boats 11 foot size.
  27. I bet I am not to first to have “problems “ holding light fiberglass cloth up while you fit and apply the epoxy, I was glassing the ice box today and it is kinda hard to reach (didn’t think to do this before I installed the foam box). It came to me to try basting tape, I have a heavy sewing machine and basting tape is something I use a lot of. Well, a little strip of 3/8 basting tape holds the dry glass in place perfectly while you fiddle around getting it “just right”. After you apply epoxy I couldn’t find evidence of the tape through the laminate. Sure made it easier messing with the light glass. I may try using this technique when we glass the hull.
  28. Your boat is looking really nice, you are in the fun phase. The spring sticks are a good idea, I on the other hand, with a bit of Neanderthal technology, just shot sheetrock screws. When I was nearly finished I had a friend that is rabid on metal detecting sniff the boat looking for errant screws.
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