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  1. Yesterday
  2. Feeling Better After a couple days away from epoxy work I am beginning to feel better. It will be 8-10 more days before safety equipment I ordered will be here, so no epoxy attempts will occur until then. It took a bit of searching but, among other things, I found inexpensive 10 foot lengths of air tubing that I could connect together for a remote “forced air supply.” I plan to use an old backup cpap machine located outside the garage with 20 or 30 feet of tubing into a face mask. Full body paint suits with gloves will also be used when I return to epoxy work. Maybe the precautions will work. In the meantime, I could identify a dozen “sub-projects” for the boat that don’t involve epoxy... and a few around-the-house things calling out to me. I will begin these things tomorrow. And, for novelty’s sake, the person who has cut my hair for the past twenty years opened her salon. My hair was feeling a bit like the old college days. My photo for the day 😄: Wow! Not much on the top there.
  3. Well, boys and girls, it got very abrasive in the workshop today. I sanded down all my lumps and bumps from when I went crazy with dookie schmutz. (A Nick Schade term for thickened epoxy.) I relearned the importance of doing neat, clean work, since I had to sand off a lot of product. I discovered a couple of holidays, too. Guess I’m going back in with goo, to clean up a couple of spots, and make some corrections. But she looks pretty good. It is also a very comfortable design.
  4. The 5.80 is a single handed, or double handed, ocean racing machine. Everything about the design was aimed at making a seaworthy, tiny, fast boat. Everything else was compromised to get to this. The basic concept was taken from the Mini 6.5. It is a poor design for cruising. By the time you store the sails and other racing and safety gear down below there is no room for any amenities. They don't even have berths. Solo 6.5 racers sleep in the cockpit for 15 minutes at most, or maybe duck below for their 15 minute nap on top of a sail bag stowed to weather. They eat back packing food using portable backpacking stoves to boil the water. They are planing hulls, and designed to be and stay super light weight. As Graham has mentioned, the mechanism for a drop keel would be outrageous to build, or have made. It would be very heavy and expensive. The rig is so tall, that only the bulb at the end of a very deep keel would keep it upright. By the time enough other compromises would be made to accommodate anything else but a deep bulb it would be a completely different boat. It would probably end up a lot like a Mk 3. Damned because it's all related.
  5. This was an enlightening, fun thread to read. Thank you.
  6. A major reason for wanting a lift keel/cruising version of the 5.80 is to reduce the cost of keeping the boat. I find the 5.80 a very enticing design, a wholesome, solid and very capable boat. The kit design and video is an amazing piece of work. However, with a fixed keel, the difficulties involved in keeping the boat look too hard, at least for me. With 1.4m draft it will have to be kept on a mooring or in a berth. However, these are expensive and may not be available. Alternatively one could put the boat on a trailer/jinker and keep the boat on hardstanding but this would need access to a deep ramp or a crane with slings. Better still, if the design incorporated a single lifting point then it could be hoisted in and out of the water, like an Etchell, rather than having to use slings around the hull. However, all these options require access to facilities that are typically only available at the more expensive yacht clubs or marinas. Maybe I am wrong but I fear the cost of keeping a 5.80 may not be that much different from keeping a 30' yacht. I feel this is at odds with the philosophy of a boat that you can build cheaply at home If a cruising/lift keel version of the 5.80 was available it could be kept on a suitably designed trailer with the bulb nestling under the hull. Storage on hardstanding or at home is now easy. The boat can be readily transported to events in different locations. Of course the keel trunk will reduce space in the cabin. However, if one is no longer concerned with meeting the racing specifications the keel could be redesigned with a foil section rather than a plate. This would allow the chord of the keel to be reduced to perhaps 500mm, maybe even less, which would help alleviate this issue. I acknowledge that Don McIntyre may not be keen on fragmenting the 5.80 class but I do feel that a cruising version with a lift keel (and an anchor well!) would be well received.
  7. No calls to my wife but I'm sure my neighbors were watching since they're always outside and have commented (positively) on progress several times. I have to say, I expected it to be fun but I was genuinely unnerved seeing the two halves separated for the first time. I felt better once I bolted it back together. She's structurally complete, I added the quarter knees, the keel and deadwood, and extended the gunwales around onto the transoms (not pictured.) Now it's on to epoxy, and then sanding and painting. There's a push to finish by the end of June for a planned sailing trip so I'm putting off the sailing hardware for now, although I have everything I need to finish.
  8. Last week
  9. I got sidetracked on a some other projects and Rosebud was put on the back burner. Finally finished the painting this past week. The Kencrane mast step has been installed. Rosie goes in the water the first week in June and I will get to try out the crane shortly after. I REALLY will launch the Rosebud this week.
  10. I Need To Stop Work Again Dang, dang, dang. A day and a half of working with epoxy again (relatively small amounts) and my skin symptoms intensified, even while still on the medications. It looks like my “hopes” that I was primarily dealing with a poison ivy reaction seem to not be the case. I must indeed have a sensitivity to epoxy. (It looks like social distancing with my boat is in order.) So, I will return to NOT doing boat work... for an unknown duration... thus “suspending” Week 4 again. A respirator should be my first attempt to improve the safety measures but they cannot be found. Earliest shipping date I’ve seen is July.
  11. Thrillsbe, Thank you for the paint input. I already went ahead with an order for Interlux and have confidence it can work well for my concerns. I generally am fortunate at making things last reasonably well over time. For instance, the boat I built in 1968 was repainted only twice with Rust-Oleum type paint prior to this year’s painting by my son (he chose some kind of basement or garage floor paint... and spar varnish for the cedar strips.) Not bad for over 50 years. And, my discomfort with using a two-part paint is just too much for me this time around.
  12. Week 4 — Day 22: Little stuff Just a bit over a half day was spent doing some small jobs that just need to be done. After adding a 3/4 pine backing to the top part of the gussets yesterday, I trimmed off the lower points, drilled out the 1 inch hole, rounded all the edges, and installed the gussets. The reason I modified them (I haven’t made any modification except for this) is to be able to slip the two-part oars all the way under the side decks and out of the way. The lower points prevented the oars from lying next to the side. While losing the point extension, the gussets gained a lot of strength, I think, and the oars can nestle in nicely. Other small jobs included adding some coats of epoxy to things, making epoxy bushings, reviewing videos and plans, some scraping or smoothing, and adding the two blocks to the rear thwart area. I also ordered stainless steel hinges, screws, hatch clasps and gasket stripping. I’m satisfied with the half day’s accomplishments. Those are things now out of the way. More of these smaller tasks await for tomorrow.
  13. One part poly (specifically Britesides) has fallen from grace with me. It doesn’t wear as well as two-part poly. I suggest that you buck up, and just do it. This is what my interior looked like after four seasons. Last summer I even did some touch-up. I use my boat about the same way you will use yours. I just don’t think it is worth putting anything on our boats but the best.
  14. Week 4: Day 21 — Bow area, Deck Plates I am starting to work on the boat project again after taking the week off. Yay! Since I lost a full week, I am “re-using” week 4. Lots of little things we’re done today that require some epoxy curing time. After taping several new bow joints and and fairing the bow area stringers and beams (I actually broke out the old hand plane which has been idle for years), I then put 3 coats of epoxy onto everything in the bow area that wasn’t already sealed. Since I will shorten the side gussets to help me get oars out of the way under the side decks, I beefed them up with 3/4” pine from wood left from shortening the king plank for the tabernacle. Waste not; want not. I cut out the hole in the deck to accommodate the tabernacle, which received epoxy bushings finally (some glassing of the inside of the tabernacle tomorrow.) I was really being careful with this saber saw cut to the front deck. Even so, the cut is kind of wavy and bumpy as I run my finger along the curve. Lots of sanding helped, but... this REALLY makes me appreciate the straightness and accuracy of the CNC produced kit. The seats are close to being installed so it was time to cut the holes for deck plates to the forward trunk. That was an interesting bit of contortion to make those cuts. I thought that maybe I should fashion something to provide more wood for the deck plate screws... a couple circles of pine should do it. They only have one coat of epoxy so far. Finally, I ordered paint tonight: Interlux Brightside, thinner, non-skid compound and primer. White and red. It was pleasant to get back to the CA15 build today and I anticipate a full week coming up... unless I go downstate on Wednesday for a motorcycle ride with my sons. 😁
  15. You're right about the odd bit of epoxy here and there adding to the weight. It's difficult to keep on top of the incremental rise. A big learning curve. I think if I'm 15-20% overweight I'll be doing well. However, I'm not hugely concerned about the extra weight being too much of a problem. If a skinny half N11 comes in at 16kg and mine is over 20kg it's no real problem. My wife I are getting used to shifting the two sections in tight spaces and they're not too much for us. It's getting used to the size and shape. A block and tackle on a halyard will make quick work of a deck launch. I do like the look of the CS17 in aluminium and the fact that she could stop a .38! She must have been an ice breaker in Alaska. Avoiding being overbuilt is the challenge but that's still impressive metal working! Weight is always a concern - I thought that a Bruce Roberts design would be perfect for us until we met someone who had a PCF 40 (which wasn't a design we were considering but a similar length). We helped them berth in a breeze and the weight of it was immense. Way too much to handle. Put me off steel completely. Anyway, an interesting off topic interlude...back to thinking about cam cleat positioning 🙂
  16. Don, thats awesome! I just put that plan on the site last week. Glad it worked for you with the paper templates. Thanks for sharing.
  17. This subject keeps coming back. There are many ways to measure strength and one of plywoods greats properties is that being a low density material it's stiffness to tensile strength to weight ratio is close to ideal. For instance, if we were building an aluminium Spindrift and trying to keep it from being too heavy, we could look at 16 gauge which is a cigarette paper thicker than 1/16" or 1.651 mm for our mathematically challenged European friends. Now if we compare it's weight to 6mm okume, it comes out at about twice the weight per square foot or meter. That already is a pound or kilo too far for me to cross already, not to mention that the bottom would probably need stiffening with a couple of stringers, compounding the build by a lot of extra welding. We do not even need to factor in that aluminium does not float. The Gougeon Brothers used to have great display at boat shows.They had every material that you could build a boat out of. Each piece was cantilevered 12" past the edge of the table and was exactly 1" wide and weighed the same. They varied the thickness of each piece so that the weights would be exactly the same. When the same weight was placed on the end of each piece, people were amazed to see how much stiffer wood was compared to the other materials and compared to steel, which we all know is very strong. The only way to beat wood is to lower the density further and that means to use a core material. As we have seen that can work but a little more resin here and there and we have lost the weight battle. A little extra weight is not a big deal in a work boat but in a tender that has to be manhandled a lot in often awkward conditions, it is a big deal.
  18. The week-off is about done and I will return to the boat project this weekend. Yesterday, I went downstate to ride one of my motorcycles that my son “stables.” Great three hour ride. The first 50 miles was on winding two-lane roads through rolling hills, woods, and farms. The second 50 miles was on a state RV trail, again through woods, farms and cute little towns. Much of the trail goes alongside several rivers. THEN, after my ride, three of my kids’ families got together at my other son’s house for his wood-fired pizza supper and a campfire. The three grandkids (4,5,6 years) hadn’t been with any other children for over two months... a rollicking time for them... sort of like squirrels in the springtime. 😁 Now, to again pick up the CS15 project.
  19. An issue to be mindful of when designing a lithium battery system is fire. A friend of mine nearly lost his boat to fire due to a failure in one of the lithium cells. This was despite having a battery monitoring system that had been carefully designed to deal with this possibility. Sticking with Torqeedo’s engineered BMS solution is probably a good idea
  20. I like to have a drain in all my boats in case they fill with rain water when I'm transporting them, or if I leave one upright on the shore or at home, and they fill with rain. They then ar too heavy too turn over and dump. The drain---with a plug of course---is "plan B" to empty them.
  21. So, after mounting it on your canoe, ya gonna do some farming with it?
  22. A guy in Alaska built a CS17 in aluminium many years ago- heavy and overbuilt Here's a link https://messing-about.com/forums/topic/5680-aluminum-cs17-for-sale-possibly/?tab=comments#comment-47874 Cheers Peter HK
  23. Today, I sanded and tweaked, until it wanted to lay naturally on a flat surface. Then, I tack-glued it all together.
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