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Twetmore

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About Twetmore

  • Birthday January 1

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    Chicago, IL

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  1. Well I am going to throw it out there again and I know that I have asked a couple of different times. I purchased the Garelich 4 stroke outboard bracket and could not bring myself to put it on my boat. It is way too big and goes against everything on the boat. I bought this one because it is specifically designed for a 4 stroke motor but it is clearly designed for a larger motor (max 30hp). (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=6480&familyName=Outboard+Motor+Bracket+for+4-Stroke+Motors+-+9-1%2F2+inches+travel) Does anyone have any better solutions? I am nervous about making something out of wood. I am not sure that the 2 stroke motor mounts are much smaller. Thanks, Tom
  2. Jim, How are your hatches hinged? I have stainless steel piano hinges but I can't get them to work out the way I would like. I really don't want to surface mount them but in the end I may have too. I can't tell from the picture, our hour seat hatches hinged yet? Thanks, Tom
  3. Hokeyhydro - Those tongue depressors are a life changer. I started by creating my own from scrap wood materials. The depressors make a nice uniform fillet and I don't worry about tossing them out afterwards. Hirilond - I figured out a while back that I am better off taking my time, enjoying what I am doing, and paying attention so that I do it correct. I have made a few small mistakes or things I could have done better that I wish I had taken my time on and now have to live with. Now I am just enjoying the project while I can.
  4. Got another good weekend in and it is starting to look like something. Decks are installed and the coaming is 75% done. Hope to be finished with two more weekends of hard work. Still need to get my hardware from B&B and figure that will take me a weekend or two figuring out and installing. I have some better pictures but didn't have time to upload them from the camera.
  5. I built my core sound 20 masts out of douglas fir 2x material. I will warn that I have not used them yet so I am not sure how well they will work but they seemed to turn out nice and really look nice. Here is what I posed and my thread so you can look at all the question I asked previously: http://messing-about.com/forums/topic/6629-core-sound-20-130/page__st__60 I used wood the entire way and actually I built the mast this last weekend. I used some really nice 2x material that I found at the lumber yard and let it dry inside for almost 8 months. I ripped the 2x down to 3/4" strips which gave me a 1-3/4"x3/4" strip which is pretty close to what the plans call for. Then I used an 8 sided birdsmouth router bit to birds mouth one side of each rip. Finally, I setup a jib for my table saw to rip the taper of 3/4" at the top down to 1-3/4" at the bottom 6' per the plans on the non-birdsmouth side. The jig was just a 2x6 set tight against the fence and blade and nailing the rips onto a pre-marked angle so that all were uniform. Finally, I put glue on all birdsmouths, fit 4-5 pieces together, inserted the blocking, and slipped the last couple of pieces together. Then I used some nylon webbing straps as tourniquets to pull the mast tight together and taped it with re-enforced parking tape. Pulling the mast together really takes 3-4 guys to do it right as well as many of the other tasks since the wood is so long. I chose to use gorilla glue as a dark resin glue was recommended on several different websites that I looked at. I am comfortable with gorilla glue, it is waterproof, and it has greater strength then the wood, as does epoxy. I could not believe how easy this whole process turned out to be in the end and would definitely recommend it to others. Then again, I still have to sand the mast smooth and we will have to see how they hold up.
  6. Peter, thanks for the input. I decided not to use PVC and I am still trying to figure out a way to drill a hole through my mast. Here are some poor quality pictures for everyone. Started putting the decks on this weekend.
  7. Peter, I am interested in your boring jib, diameter of hole and length that you bored. I made wood birdsmouth mast for my boat and put blocking at the bottom and 6'-8' into the mast. I have what is probably a dream to wire some lights to the top of one or both of my masts but am worried about blowing a hole in the side of the mast. Blocking goes from bottom, 3' up stops and starts again from 6'-8'. I have a feeling this is nearly impossible to do on my own but thought it would ask the question anyways. Thanks, Tom
  8. Has anyone tried to use a 4" PVC pipe and slip fittings for the forward mast tube? I made my mast out of wood using birdsmouth method and it is about 3-3/4" diameter and inside of 4" pvc is 4" diameter. Is this too loose? If I make sure that the ends of the PVC are fixed and tight is there any reason it would not work? I would imagine it is stronger than a couple of layers of glass and more rot resistant. Also, it is not visible unless you are inside the compartment which I am fine with. It just seems to easy to work in comparison to a fiberglass tube. Thanks, Tom
  9. It has been a busy summer and I really did not get to work on my boat at all. With my Dad getting ansy to get it our of his garage in the subarbs I am planning on finishing it by May. Here are a couple of photos. My next step will be putting the deck on.
  10. All, Thanks for your input. I think I am going to go with the Garelick motor mount, it seems to be the easiest solution with a pretty good product. Peter - I am trying to get the smallest one possible which will hold my motor, the problem I have is that I got a great deal on a brand new Tihatsu 4hp four stroke outboard. I am not sure why but there is a difference in the rating of the brackets for a 2 stroke and 4 stroke which really beefs it up. I will have to look into Frank's comment about reversing the springs if it ends up being to difficult to get to the lower positions. Hokeyhydro - Thanks for the trailer info. USCG has a lot of good information that I have been looking for and I think I have a better idea on trailers now. I am still hoping to find a used trailer for the next couple of years and maybe upgrade to a new one after that, new trailers are a lot more expensive than I was hoping. I agree, Wes's bracket is nice, not sure that I have the reasources to make something like that though, welding stainless steel is out of my area of expertise, I remember reading somewhere that he had a family member do it for him or with him. I figure by the time I find someone that can do it and pay them I will go over the price of a commercial bracket. Good thoughts though. Thanks, Tom
  11. I thought I would update everyone with my progress for anyone that is interested. I have finished all of the deck framing and just need to seal the wood with epoxy and sand some fillets, then I am on to installing the deck. I think I have decided to use 4 ounce fabric on the decks and seats similar to Wes for abrasion resistance so that will add a little more time. With my wedding coming up and August and my project coming to the finish line, I have not had as much time to work on my boat as I would like and have been meaning to post some more pictures. I have a couple of questions or things that I would appreciate comments on if anyone has experience: 1. For the last 4-5 months I have been trying to figure out a way to mount my outboard on the transom in an inexpensive way. I was going to try and custom build something similar to Wes's setup but I don't think I have resources to make a bracket I am comfortable with. I finally decided I am going to go with a Garelick adjustable bracket Garelick 9" Adjustable Outboard Bracket. It is expensive...the problem that I am having is that even thought I have a long shaft motor, the depth is not enough to allow me to tilt the motor up when not in use and keep the cavatation plate below the water line when in use. This bracket achieves this and would allow for adjustment based on how much weight I have in the boat. Before I purchase it though, I would appreciate any input. 2. Trailer! I have been trying to figure out a trailer for this boat for a while. I know that there are a lot of posts out there which I have been reading. It is an odd boat to trailer because of the size to weight ratio, it seems that many people just deflate the tires a bit to make up for the low weight which I am fine with. I have been searching on craigslist constantly and contacting local marinas without much luck but will keep trying. I was wondering if anyone knows if there are regulations for the length of the trailer versus the lenght of the boat, I have a feeling that if varies from state to state but would appreciate any input. Has anyone recently purchased a newer model that works well that I could look at for reference? 3. Finally, I am looking at ordering navagational lights. I was wondering if anyone had any input on bow and aft lights. I want LED to minimize power loss. Do people typically mount them on the deck or on the hull at the bow? Thanks, Tom
  12. So I framed in the decks last weekend and at the aft I put the hatch in the center thinking it would be easier to access things. It just dawned on me that it is laid out to the side because it will conflict with the rudder...I will have to reframe the area. Also, I would appreciate any input from anyone that you might have on my mast question about the flex. Thanks, Tom
  13. If I want to varnish over epoxy for the UV protection, do I need to use a two part varnish? Does anyone know of a one part vanish that would work?
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