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Sugarbaker

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Sugarbaker last won the day on May 24 2016

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  1. wow! that looks great. Well done!
  2. Thanks for your input Jeff. I didn't realize there were modifications to the other frame pieces to modify the deck lines. I may hold out for a while and purchase a new set of plans... realistically my new house may have a problem storing a 17 foot plus boat anyway. I do like the looks of recent Curlew builds and know you've updated that design. Time will tell!
  3. I purchased plans to build a Shad sometime ago... and before I was able to start lashing up my frame, my wife and I moved to another state. I still have the plans and frame components, and have started setting up my new shop. As I prepare to continue work on this kayak, I see that a nice laminate beam option has been photographed and described on the Kudzucraft website. I'm wondering if there are instructions or plans that I could incorporate into my boat, but wasn't able to find anything specific seeing as I purchased the plans a year or so ago. Has anyone made this change to an existing boat? I am quite capable in regards to wood working, and believe I could likely concoct a solution just based on photographs, but thought I'd give a shout out to the community and Jeff to see if there is a simpler solution that could save me some frustration. Thanks! Stephen
  4. With some experimentation, I think you'd find you could figure out the basics of lofting the frames. That being said, I would encourage you to make a purchase, Jeff's book "Building Fuselage Frame Boats" from his online store. The book has several different plans included (coordinates) and a full explanation of how to loft the coordinates into full size plans/templates. Considering that he does this over many pages (and with great graphics), it would be difficulty to give a brief overview of the process in a forum based response.
  5. You may consider taking a look at Jeff's Nimrod Kayak. He offers the coordinates for creating the frame pieces for free through his store. You can then loft those coordinates in your CAD program and make your own plans... as I have done here using AutoCAD and Sketchup. It is time consuming, but a wonderful way to spend a few hours, and may count for some credit in your class.
  6. complete frame with combing (combing is flat with no curve as I prefer, but that will be for another time due to the complexity of the shape).
  7. And after a few more hours of work... Gunwales added. No small task in Sketchup, as the software doesn't like compound curves that move through different planes. May be easy for someone who uses the software all the time, but taxing my ability! The dark blue components follow the curve of the frames... as well as the twist that occurs as you fit it in place. Next up will be the stringer that creates the hard chine to the boat. Stay tuned.
  8. With some additional modeling, and moving the stern and bow pieces down 1/4" but maintaining their shape, it looks like everything will piece together smoothly. But really all of this is speculation, as Jeff has explained, the real shape will come into it's own based on how the stringers sit when building. Here is a pic of the bow and the stern. Keeping in mind that Sketchup is not great at building curved splines (at least I am not aware how), the screenshots here do not show the complex curves of the gunwale. Also in my haste, I did not add a relief for the seat planks as described in Jeff's books. Regardless, these models should give a pretty good idea how frame cross sections will sit with the keel, deck stringers, bow and stern sections. A couple more views
  9. An additional observation that leads me to a new conclusion (I should remind any readers that I have not built this boat myself, this is purely an exercise in modeling and working with the free plans that Jeff has provided.) As I look at the deck line of the stern, I see that in Jeff's original line drawing of a completed nimrod, the deck has very little or no arc in the profile at the stern... as I look at a new view of the sketchup model, I see that as the coordinates are entered, the result would be a slight upward curve in the deck-line. Moving the stern down 1/4" to match the keel at the last frame point would result in a straight rear deck profile. The picture here shows the deck in the original position... note the lines I've added at the top that connect the last 4 frame pieces and then the line that connects the tip of the stern with the top of the frame (4th from the stern). As moving the stern (or bow) down 1/4" gives a smoother profile to the boat with less abrupt change in the line, I would maintain the exact shape of the stern and bow as written in the plans, but then put them in place when building such that they are in line with the keel. Again, I emphasize that I would not change the shape of these pieces at all, only their position in space.
  10. Ok, So I have taken the time to loft up these coordinates in Sketchup (enough to refresh my memory of how I laid this out before). First photo is the bow, using the bottom of the fore-most frame section as the origin. What I would do, as Action Tiger has suggested would be to cut out the Bow and Stern (same alignment issue with the stern as seen in the second picture) and then adjust them to fit the frame during the build process. The shape will be correct. My feeling is when looking at the peak of the boat... the bow could easily be dropped the ~1/4" that the coordinates indicate and the profile of the boat would still maintain a flowing curve. The other thing to remember, is that you will be cutting a relief in the bow and stern where the keel extends into it. between this relief and the profile you can add to the keel when complete, you may not need to alter the position of the bow and stern at all. I agree though, that without some adaption during the build process, the coordinates may cause confusion. I will continue to work on this model in my spare time to see if I can illustrate my intention more clearly. Bow Stern
  11. Hello Dorme, I see your question... A proper response will come, but I want to do the work myself in sketch up to see if I can replicate the problem. It's been long enough that I don't recall having an issue/problem with the coordinates, but I did use Autocad, which operates differently than sketch up. Stay tuned.
  12. This looks beautiful. Starting to become a hybrid of fuselage frame and traditional greenland kayak (at least in appearance). Unfortunately I am temporarily without a work space or place to store a boat (my Shad frame pieces suffer from a state of 'unassembled' due to a long pending move to California). I fear it will be 7 months to a year before I am able to start building again. Even so, by that time your new boat may be through some of your prototyping stages and ready for me to purchase plans! While I do love the lines of Shad this new frame appears to be what I've been searching for since the beginning of my interest in SOF kayaks. Well done, I look forward to seeing this project progress.
  13. I haven't started a build, but I did plot out the plans. When plotting the bow and stern, I did it from a separate origin, and then once complete and drawn (I turned each piece into a 'block' in autocad), I could then move the parts into place just as if they were the real thing. seen in this screen shot, in place (with some simple modification to accommodate the keel strip and deck beams). The stern in this screen shot is not complete, but you get the idea. I found that all the dimensions lined up without problem.
  14. Your shad looks great. Great idea with the reflective grab lines.
  15. glad to I read these recent posts. I too was considering a flat/semi-gloss paint. Will have to reconsider. Although, in my copy of Fuselage Frame Boats it is on page 135.
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