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mks

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  1. Near I can tell the (laminated) coaming just sits on the front and rear stringer and that one really straps it on hard while sewing the fabric to it. Thus, is it correct to say there is no lateral mid-point support (it looks like the Ravenswood plans I have used to have such a support) and that there is no additional holes in the front/back of coaming for some additional lashing to the stringer? And if so, I assume things can slightly wobble around after everything is done, so I should let the stringer jut into the seating area about half an inch to support any slight wiggling? measure twice, cut once... thanks M
  2. Thanks all for the help. "oldpropfan" diagram is what I did not do. I just assumed a constant height. Fortunately the lightening holes were not so large and I was able to resmooth the curve. And that CAD diagram very nice! Next job: the coaming. M
  3. I need some lofting help. Specifically on getting the bow/stern pieces to match up on the connection. My first boat was the Messabout from plans, which nicely fell together. I note that in Jeff's book "More FFB" the Messabout lofting numbers all match up. That does not seem to be the case with the revised Nimrod offsets. The 18" frame bottom/top center dimension is (1 15/16, 9 9/16) respectively. If I look at the stern piece I read the mating bottom/top coordinates as ( 0 4/16, 8 5/16) [FYI I am converting the two digit values back to approximate 16ths so the comparison is easier]. So these dont seem to match. And likewise for the Bow pieces. The 186" station values are (1 12/16 , 10 15/16) vs bow height of approx (0 4/16 , 10 8/16). If I just consider the absolute heights: 18" piece is 7 10/16 and the matching piece is 8 1/16. The 186" station piece is 9 3/16 whereas the matching piece is 10 4/16. I then referenced my copy of Jeff's "Fuselage Frame Boats" book and the Poco Barta design. The bow 15'16" station has bottom/top coordinates of (1 13/16, 11 2/16) which is an identical match with the bow piece coordinates. I am assuming here the match is expected. The stern top height matches when I add the 1/2" thick stern top piece. The bottom dimension agrees to within about 1/8", I believe. Can someone identify my error? FYI some of the other kayaks in Jeff's two books also cause the same confusion for me. thanks M
  4. Jeff, thanks for video link. little confused now on the coaming dimensions. Your plan shows the lower rings 1" wide and upper at 1.5" wide. But Bcone's description indicates 0.5" thick and with lip about 1" thick. Alternatively, would it be possible to make the upper two ring components in plywood segments that overlap and are glued together. Say, make each ring as two halves (one an left/right split, the other a front/back split) so that the plywood sheet used more efficiently? Obviously the bottom one would need to be one complete piece.
  5. OK! thanks. I was thinking the lip was stacked perpendicularly on top to facilitate trimming
  6. My lumber supplier was shocked by this as well. The 5x5 sheets are actually 1.5 meter square and apparently come from europe where such distinctions may be still used. But they phoned around various (their) suppliers to confirm that. I can only trust those guys who work with the stuff all day. I am quite happy with the 4x8 sheet I got which was confirmed exterior grade.
  7. Thanks for these pictures. I just purchased a ravenswood plans set as well. I look forward to your pictures of the lip installation. I am having problems visualizing the process. Does it involve laying lots of little pieces side by side in a radial pattern? How much over hang on the lip is required?
  8. When I researched getting Baltic Birch my local store here in north-east Ohio discovered that the 5x5 sheets available from their supplier were interior grade and thus used water soluble glue. I got a 4x8 sheet for $70. I have already used half of one sheet and never saw an interior void.
  9. I was told by my local lumber store after many phone calls that the 5'x5' (actually 1.5 meters square) is interior grade baltic birch that does not use water proof glue. The 4'x8' sheets are exterior grade and use water proof glue. You might want to confirm with your local suppliers M
  10. Jeff, Thanks for clarifying the notch While you are "messing about" with the plans, could you also clarify the 10" frame vs bracket and the 13'3" frame vs bracket duplicate numbers as mentioned by me and others earlier in this thread? glueing: the bow and stern pieces are glued together as well... Next question: The spacing between frames ranges averages out at around 18" (some as low as 14" others around 18"). However, there is one large gap of 29" between the 7'10" and 10'3" frames. My eyeball wants to put another frame somewhere around 9'1". I would have guessed that in the seating area more frames are good??? Or should the frames be repositioned at different locations? thanks all for your help. No doubt more questions are brewing in my basement... M
  11. Jeff, on the stern assembly for the messabout there is an approximately 4" long notch to take the keel stringer that comes out of the gap in the 10" frame and to be lashed. It is clearly shown in the assembly manual and pictures confirm my understanding. Now at the bow (13'3" frame) I would assume the same general attachment procedure. However, as I see the plan there is no notch to take the keel stringer and I dont see how I am to attach. Should there be a notch in the vertical piece, just like at the stern? thanks M
  12. Jeff, I am having the same Messabout problem as described in this thread, but I am not following your update here. I have a bracket and frame both listed as 10". I assume that if I put the frame at approx 9" (outside of bracket). Its OK??? As well, this thread says all frames should be put on the same side of the brackets. Not sure that is possible. At the bow 13'3" I have the same duplication of frame and bracket location. In this case I need to put the frame at 13'4" - the other side of the bracket so that the entire bow and stern assemblies hangs to the outside of their respective frames. As well, the other two brackets to which frames are attached are 1" different in location than the frames, unlike the two noted above. That makes sense to me, unlike the 10" and 13'3" frames. And rather than start yet another thread, I will ask my other questions here. The stern piece has this big nice hole to lighten the piece. Is it OK to add some smaller holes to lighten it some more? And guidelines on how much wood to leave between hole and edge of frame? Ditto, the bow piece. Your plans have a solid piece - OK to put a hole in that to help lighten it? The stern and bow assemblies: are they only lashed to the keel stringer or are they glued as well? (I thought I saw a glueing instruction somewhere, but cant find that now). In which case, that needs to be one of the first steps as part of laying the keel stringer, but before the frames are screwed to the brackets? Figures 98 and 101 in the instruction manual suggest that you only use two frames to level the gunwale stringers - and those are inner frames. Is that true for just that boat, or should I do the same with the Messabout? As well, should only those two frames be bolted to the brackets or should all four frames be bolted to brackets? No doubt more questions to follow... thanks M
  13. About 60 lb for the smallest boy thanks M
  14. Jeff, What are the minimum recommended weights for your kayaks? Contemplating ordering plans and wondering if my kids would be OK in them. Specifically looking at the mess around (15) because of the larger opening for a family of new kayakers using intro kayaks from Dicks sporting store. I also notice the web site does have the other numbers you supply with your other designs (dimensions and other specs). Its interesting to look at them just to understand the tradeoffs. Most helpful web site! (newbie first post) thanks M
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