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Garth Jones

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  1. What a nice boat! We have had it in the water a couple of times and are very happy. Here are two photos: My wife, a very happy paddler... And our friend Chris, tearing up the water - I patched the hole and added a fourth coat of white to stop some weaping, and all is well! Cheers, Garth
  2. I just finished my wife's Shad and I now have about four hours paddling time in the boat. I'm not an experienced kayaker with time in many different boats, but I have paddled a few. Compared to the others I have paddled (the closest being Chesapeake Light Craft's Night Heron) the Shad does like to go in a straight line. For me the boat tracks very well. Turning efficiently, as Jeff noted, requires a bit of lean. So far we're really happy withe the boat! Cheers, Garth
  3. At this point, I experienced a minor disaster. When carrying the boat back to the deck where I'm working on it, I must have run the stern into something. I managed to tear a small hole in the fabric, right at the stern. It's about an inch long. Since this is a brand new boat, not yet even finished, I'd really like the repair to be invisible as possible. My first thought was to carefully remove a few of the staples from the stern (or undo a bit of the stitching, such that I could get to the inside of the rip. Then I could glue a small patch of fabric over the rip with epoxy. Sanded smooth from the outside and painted, it would probably disappear. However, I'm new to this sort of boatbuilding and will welcome any suggestions! I forgot to mention, the round hole by the shear is intentional - it's for the stern rope handle.
  4. This boat is for my wife, and she has asked for a white hull and yellow topsides. For paint I'm using Rustoleum oil based paint, which is readily available here from local big box stores. I applied the first coat with a foam roller. it took quite a long time and didn't seem to cover very well, in spite of the fact that I used an entire quart can. When it was dry, the surface was very rough, so I sanded off all the nubblies with 120 grit (applied lightly). I brushed on a second coat much more heavily, but still used less than a can. Someobody suggested lighting the boat from the inside to see how effective the paint coverage is. I carried the boat into the back of my shop and turned off all the lights. Pinholes and general poor coverage were very easy to see, which is saying something since I have white paint on white fabric. It's a great method.
  5. I am using the recycled 8 oz polyester fabric. I sewed it on using the 'new' double rope stick which I liked very much. For rope I just used poly 3/16" clothes line - cheap, easy to find, and totally waterproof. Here is an action shot of me ironing the finished skin. So far, everything has gone really well....
  6. Hi Everybody, I've been working on a Shad for the last little while and thought I should start a thread about it. Also, because I have a question.... First things first. The frame is Baltic birch ply (the good Russian stuff) and all the rest is cypress. My wood shop has no lawn, so rather than the expected frame on the lawn photo, here it is leaning against a bick wall.
  7. Thanks for answering my question. If I could ask one more... From your book and video it looks like I should start at the cockpit and sew towards the ends (as opposed to the nylon, which starts with the bow and stern pockets). Is this correct? My general plan was to sew from the cockpit to the ends using the double cord. Then I was going to staple the bow and stern and cover those areas with brass half oval. Thanks again, Garth
  8. I really like the look of that stitch. I'm about to start skinning my Shad using the recycled poly. I assume this stitch will work for that fabric. Are there any pitfalls I should look out for? By the way, Jamestown Distributors sells half oval brass stock small enough to use on these boats, I think. I got some from them a few years ago for my Ness Yawl (Iain Oughtred designed sail boat). One 6' piece will be enough for at least two kayaks, I would think. Cheers, Garth
  9. I am very new to the whole SOF world, but that price would not put me off at all. The total cost of the boat is still very reasonable. A ply boat (or kit) or an entirely strip built boat will be much, much more.
  10. Okay, here's my Shad as it is right now. I took these shots this afternoon. The stringers are all cypress and the frames are Baltic Birch plywood. The green boat hanging from the ceiling in the background of the first shot is my Adirondack Guidboat, which was boat #2 for me. Each boat I build seems to get smaller and less expensive, since the first boat is an Iain Oughtred designed Ness Yawl (19'2" glued lap plywood sailboat). Cheers, Garth
  11. Hi Everybody,I'm building a Shad in Pittsburgh (third boat, but my first SOF boat). I just discovered the issue with the brackets today, and this forum. When I removed the 11'7" bracket to recut the slot depth, the boat sprung down to the right spot and the keel stringer took on a fair curve. This thread saved me from much frustration, so thanks!I'm just about done lashing the frame together but I still have the coaming to do. While I am no stranger to steam bending and bent lamination, I am contemplating cutting the parts out of plywood. Faster, but the laminated coaming would look better.... Cheers,Garth
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