PAR

I've been using a similar recycled polyester material for covering traditional decks and cabin roofs. It has the look and texture of canvas, but can be stretched to conform to compound curves, which is a very handy feature, especially on some decks or roofs. I've not tried to apply it the traditional way, with paint. I have used it with TiteBond III or epoxy. Both seem to take to it well and it's strength will make removal come repair or replacement time easier too.

I've used most of the brands available and haven't found a viscosity issue with 5:1 formulations, which suggests an environmental issue, not a particular brand, mix ratio or formulation problem. You might try warming the resin a little, say to 80 degrees.

5:1 epoxies need to be especially accurate with the mix ratios, as you've found. 2:1's not as critical. A little bit out with the 5:1 and you're off a significant percentage. Also massing epoxy can cause a wild exothermic reaction, that will cause outgassing (bubbles). If the epoxy is solid, then just grind the surface smooth and apply more goo and tape. If the epoxy is soft (hasn't fully cured), it has to come out.

As to the wires, there's a lot of ways to remove them. A good way is to expose the ends of the wire and attach a car or garden tractor battery to each end. This "dead short" will quickly cause the wire to get hot and you can pull it right out. I dislike the idea of steel remaining in the goo, but technically it shouldn't hurt anything, if fully encapsulated with goo and tape.

Lastly, about the "trueness" of the hull - you'll get the opportunity to square things up as the seat faces, tops and partitions go it. Make the upright building cradle level, so you can check with a level at key locations, like across the seats, the thwart, the transom corners, etc. The plans have a bow and transom height measurement, so getting it level is fairly easy. As the various structural elements go in, sometimes you might have to force the hull into a slight twist, to insure it remains square.

Regardless of roller type, you'll get "stipple", so you have to tip off, to knock down this texture.

How did he show the primer and top coat was well bonded? Did he use the scratch and tape yank test?  For what it's worth, I've never met any "epoxy gurus", at any boat parts store, unless it was a customer who was a known quantity. Even these generally don't "know" epoxy, though may have good skills and advise, based in their experience. It would be interesting to see the sample after the epoxy had a full two weeks of cure or even a bit of post cure, as if it had been in the sun for a while. This is often the real test of over coats, as the base coating shrinks up and the top coat must cope with the movement. 990 is fairly good in this regard, among the LPU's, but I don't know enough about 330 to say.

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