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okie geo

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Tahlequah, Oklahoma; Drummond Island, Michigan
  • Interests
    Sailing, boat building, Habitat for Humanity, watercolor painting

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  1. tehani, what is this jump-t thing you mentioned. something to heat the wire. I have used a small blow torch, like plumbers use. It worked OK.
  2. thanks, Howard. these suggestions will be very helpful. geo
  3. whoops, I got to thinking about my last reply and realized I made a mistake in fractions. The general rule of oar length being 2x with width of the boat is good. I got it from Karl Stambaugh's book "Good Skiffs". But the bit about how much of the oar is inboard and how much is outboard was stated incorrectly in my last post. The inboard part of the oar would be 1/4th the total length of the oar, not 1/3. The general rule above of course assumes you want to maximize rowing efficiency and does not consider other factors like storage of the oars.
  4. Thanks, Dave. I see you are from Charlestown. We lived in Kingston for 4 yrs in late 60's, a beautiful place. Some of the directions in the plans are confusing, so I may pester you again.
  5. I just bought plans for Spindrift 10N and am in the thinking stage of construction. Any suggestions about the stitch and glue process and early phase of construction would be appreciated. Does one glass just one side of the butterfly joint or both sides before stitching the two halves together? I liked the suggestion of using kevelar tape for that joint. Has anyone used nylon ties instead of wire for the stitching?
  6. Jack, A good rule of thumb is that oars should be 2x the width of the boat. That puts 2/3rds of the oar outside the boat and 1/3rd inside. So if you have a boat 4' wide, you'd have 8' oars. In use, 2' will be inside the boat and 6' will be sticking out.
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