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Gzwilling

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  1. I have been thinkig about the protective strips for a while and also thinking about how I get in and out of the boat I use now. I tend to back up to the shore if I can't get sideways to it. So I am going to put strips on both the bow and the stern. I have not yet decided what to use for strips.
  2. I am have been making my floor boads out of cypress and it is quite soft. It probably would not last too long as a rub strip.
  3. Another solution is a sea sock. This is a bag (for lack of another word) that fits into the cockpit attached to the comming into which you sit. It seals off the rest of the kayak. I have never used one but they are supposed to work. They also keep dirt ou of ther boat.
  4. Very handsome. The orange deck should add to it's being noticed.
  5. Jeff, I understand that the design has changed but I didn't get a CD with the plans. Perhaps you overlooked putting one in the envolope with the plans. Could you send one along to me? George
  6. Jeff, I purchased a set of plans for the Curlew, they were printed on 10/29/11 and they were drawn on 12/6/10. I also have a copy of your book copywrited 2011. When getting ready to set up my strongback, I noted that the first station from the plans is to be spaced at 2"8' and the last is to be at 11"6'. The problem that I precieve is that there is nothing to which to attach the bow and stern frames (which are to be located at 1"0" and 13"0"). The book has stations to be located so that the bow and stern frames can be attached at those locations. My question is: What to do about this? It seems to me that the bow and stern frames need to be attached to supports. I have made stations according to the book for this purpose. Do you see any problems using them? Thanks, George
  7. AndrewB, when I cut out my forms I used a new high quality blade made by Bosh. My saw takes the T-Shank blades so the part number is T101BR. These blades look like they have two rows of teeth and are designated "10TPI DPP D/PO. I had no splintering, in fact the cut surface looks like it has already been sanded. When using regular blades, even new, there was no splintering but the surface was no where near as smooth. Good luck, George
  8. To see a good way to draw the curves, got yostworks.com. This is another person who designs fuselage frame kayaks. In his "woodframe manuel" got to "cross sections" then scroll to the 4th page. You will see how to draw the curves. George
  9. Dave I would suggest that you tie a line from the bow of your boat to the front of the truck, for added safety.
  10. Is there any reason why the plywood coaming cannot be assembled than sown to the boat just like the laminated coaming?
  11. Thought that you woiuld like to know that Amazon has a free kindle download for computers. This works just like a Kindle tablet.
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