BillT

I certainly understand the recommendation to do without a motor. I launch in a marina that has pretty tight fairways, not sure I would be able to row and sailing within the marina is very much frowned upon. So, motor is to get me in and out of there as well as to run out to spoil islands on windless days. If it is just me, I sail if the boat is making way, if family is with me they are less patient. I started building a set of oars per Michalaks take on Pete Culler oars extended to 9ft. I will give rowing a shot and if I make an attempt at the Ultra Marathon next year I will need some practice.

Thanks John. I may go with 1/4 in for now for the same reason. Is your outboard a short shaft? Found a great deal on a 3.5 tohatsu that was advertised as long but is short. I would need to add a motor mount but the price is right even with that additional purchase. Dies a short shaft work out ok or is it to close to the water?

Hello, I just purchased a new (to me) core sound 17, sail #159. I had been thinking of building either a 17 or a 20 and this one came up at a reasonable cost so I now get to skip the building part..... The boat came without sheets for either the main or mizzen. I have sen recommendations here for ~42' for the main and 35' for the mizzen. I should note that it appears that this boat has the recommended hardware for routing of the sheets, main to the base of the mizzen and mizzen to the transom. How about line diameter? 3/8" good enough or 1/2". The one repair that needs to be made is to the centerboard. It has split on its trailing edge, will need to either rebuild or repair. also, is anybody using a line on the rudder to hold it up? Mine has a line to hold it down, but I sail in some pretty shallow waters so instead of dragging the rudder I would prefer to be able to adjust it's depth. Any wisdom on modifying the stock rudder and rudder head for this? Thanks, Bill