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Guest Chris Beebe

Ocracoke 256 #3

274 posts in this topic

Thanks for the advice guys. I have not though about using a resin and filler mixture instead of the tube/sleeve method and that seems a reasonable solution.

I am looking at all the options and I am planning on using a backing plate on the back side of the transom anyway but just wanted to be as prepared as possible to eliminate future problems.

 

Thanks again , also here is picture of the floor between the front bench seats.

oc 203.jpg

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Thanks, I enjoy your updates on your project also.

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Made 2 of these a few weeks ago, cut them on a water jet out of 3/8" aluminum  and going to either polish them or maybe powder coat them ( silver) I am also thinking I should clear coat them.

Planning on mounting them on either side towards the back, probably use a drill and tap the back side and use a hidden screw from the back that way they will look clean and less of a chance for water to get through.

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And then we had to do some touch up to get it perfect ( or really close to that....) teak is great but a lot of work

IMG_20170619_160553666.jpg

IMG_20170619_160601422.jpg

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The shop is not mine but a friends he is letting us use it and he is doing the final hull prep and painting for us. He is a very professional boat builder and we are very lucky to be able to work along side of him.

The deck hatch on the forward compartment between the bench seats is going to have a SS piano hinge on the side, the hatch for the bilge on the stern is going to have a catch type flange with a 1/4 turn handle so there is no hinge I decided not to use a hinge I would rather be able to remove it and set aside if I had to open it out at sea it would be safer than having it close on me like I had it happen in the past on other boats. I am making an L type Stainless bracket that I can slip under the rear lip and latch down.For the rest of the hatches we are using SS piano hinges.

 

Thanks

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