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Guest Chris Beebe

Ocracoke 256 #3

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Hello Oyster

 

Yeah we are redoing some stuff that should have been done differently, it hasn't been too bad. Overall it is good,  just having a different set of eyes looking at something and having friends that are experienced boat builders has been very helpful.  Their insight and knowledge is eye opening, I have learned a lot through this experience and if I ever built another boat (and probably will after I recover from this one) will be a lot better.

We are hoping to get the hull work done and painted by the first week in June and then I have to hang the engines, finish the wiring, rigging and plumbing which will take me 4-6 weeks since I have a business to run and will be doing that work at nights and weekends.

If all goes well we will be doing sea trials by the end of July, the boat will be located on the Pamlico river and plan on running it between Bath and Ocracoke this Summer, hope to do some fishing late summer and through the rest of the year.

Where are you located?

 

As far as Jay's question to what shop I am in, all I can say it is a very professional shop with a lot of history behind it.

 

Have a great day

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19 hours ago, gbt said:

Hello Oyster

 

Yeah we are redoing some stuff that should have been done differently, it hasn't been too bad. Overall it is good,  just having a different set of eyes looking at something and having friends that are experienced boat builders has been very helpful.  Their insight and knowledge is eye opening, I have learned a lot through this experience and if I ever built another boat (and probably will after I recover from this one) will be a lot better.

We are hoping to get the hull work done and painted by the first week in June and then I have to hang the engines, finish the wiring, rigging and plumbing which will take me 4-6 weeks since I have a business to run and will be doing that work at nights and weekends.

If all goes well we will be doing sea trials by the end of July, the boat will be located on the Pamlico river and plan on running it between Bath and Ocracoke this Summer, hope to do some fishing late summer and through the rest of the year.

Where are you located?

 

As far as Jay's question to what shop I am in, all I can say it is a very professional shop with a lot of history behind it.

 

Have a great day

 

 

Good enough...

 

Best of luck to you.

 

Jay

Harkers Island

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Jay and any one else that is interested on seeing the boat in person you are welcome to come by the house / shop just PM me and we can make arrangements.

 

Have a great day

 

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On 4/3/2017 at 7:04 PM, gbt said:

A little more progress.

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ATTENTION TO DETAIL . 

I love that !!

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Keep working on it, a little slow these last 2 weeks. Shaped the bow toe rail, working on the hatches, installed more teak on the hatch rings where plywood edge was showing and trimmed out the anchor hatch with teak trying to dress it up a little. Also fared the bow and mid rails. Hope we can start sanding and touching up the hull this week.

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Looking great!!! Thank you for continuing with picture updates, very much appreciated!

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Thanks Farmboy and you are welcome.

We are working on the teak floor for the forward raised floor area, once we get it done will be glued and the hatch will be fitted.

oc 201.jpg

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Thank you for updating the pictures of this beautiful build. I enjoy reading your post and pictures. I can't wait to see this beautiful boat on the water.

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No this is the floor section in the forward seating, it has a hatch on the floor.

cc 41.jpg

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Thanks for the updates. I am still peeking over your shoulder.  The finished product should be a mini yacht, with the direction that you are headed. I may have missed it. What engine are you planning?

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We are using twin Suzuki 175's and we decided to go with the electronic throttle / shifting controls, I have not used them before but heard good things about them. We originally planned on twin Yamaha 150's but with the extra things added to the boat we felt extra HP would be safer, Yamaha does have 175's but they are not available with counter rotation and the electronic controls start at 200"s and up. You can always throttle back and I am big believer of no substitute for extra HP when you need it. The Suzuki 150's and 175's are virtually the same motors weigh and displacement wise and also about $4,000.00 less than Yamaha.

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Great nice work !!

BTW the new Suzuki df200ap is also the same motor as 150 and 175 and almost same weight ;);)

 

I personally love the white ones with the new decal for my build 

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Thanks guys for the input.

We did buy the 2017 white motors with the new decals, we received them 2 months ago and itching to get them on the boat. I am planning on installing crush sleeves through the transom where the bolts come through for the motors. We are planning to use the Garolite G10 composite tubing and epoxy them so there is very little compression from the bolt motors, we are also going to use a backing plate on the  back side top to help with the load stress of the motors tork. Every motor we installed in the past we had to go back and retork the bolts over time and with the transom being built out of plywood I think it would be better to keep it from cracking the paint and compressing the wood. Didn't know if anyone else has done this before and had any suggestions or better way of dealing with it.

Thanks again for the input.

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I wonder if you could use epoxy to fill a much larger hole, then drill it out for the mounting bolt. Kinda makes a molded in compression sleeve. Something to ask Graham or Alan.

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The G10 tubes (yellow)are stronger than just epoxy resin, the 1" OD by 1/4" wall thickness and 1/2 " ID tube had a tensile strength of 32,000 psi and impact strenght of 5.5 ft-lbs/in because of being made with resin and fiberglass fabric and there are also Structural fiberglass tubes (green) that have 30,000 psi tensile strength with 25 ft-lbs/in that are even stronger . But I also though about making the sleeve out of brass or even stainless steel and I know that would be even stronger. I think it would be better to do it out of G10 or Structural Fiberglass versuss brass or SS  because I can glue them in and don't have to worry about water getting in the hole. That is what I am thinking, I just don't have previous experience with that sort of thing so I need to figure it out.

Thanks for the input, that helps me get the info I am looking for. 

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I cannot speak for the new G10 tube epoxy. But FWIW in a previous life we used to use 404 West System filler in an epoxy mix for shims or wedges for big boat strut alignment, where it was under a lot of stress and never personally say a problem with it. So you could probably do your filling of the drilled out voids , say three inches wide by one inch or so with that. I don't think targeted tubes of any materials will do what you are attempting to do, since the loading is not spread across a larger area. Short of filling, a plate across the bolt pattern on the inside has always worked really well. I have also used layers of thickened glass to fill over sized holes too with success in plywood laminates.

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Lots of milled fibers, with just enough silica to stiffen the mix and you've got homemade G-10 . . .

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