Modified centerboard rigging ?

[Jim Stumpf]

With my new sleeping boards in place I would like to simplify the stock configuration of the centerboard control rigging. Anyone have changes that they would like to share. Seems that the board is so light that some of the purchase designed in maybe overkill. For the down haul I am thinking a loop of shock cord aft at the thwart connected to line that runs forward to the board head through a block and then back to the thwart and a cleat. The up haul could be as simple as a line from the board to the existing forward block and back to a cleat at the thwart.

 

I have one of those self releasing cleats on the rudder downhaul that is supposed to release if the rudder strikes something but in the only instance that I needed it the line gave way before the cleat released, bit of a concern for me on the centerboard where I have good line that should not yield.

 

Thanks in advance for your thoughts,

 

Jim

[PAR]

I made significant changes to the case and board profile, to eliminate most of the associated tackle and to enclose the board, fully within the case, so the area is an unobstructed sleeping area, without a board arm sticking up.

 

 

Look closely and you'll see the stock case and board profile and the new configuration. On a CS-17 it took about 20 pounds of lead to get the board to sink with authority and in use it works very well.

 

The changes to this drawing I found necessary when building where I straightened up the kingpost on the forward end of the case (just to make it easier). I used an epoxy bushing where the lanyard exits the case and now prefer to used a self contained pivot pin setup, which eliminates the need for a hole in the case. The pin hangs on two "L" shaped brackets, within the case and the board and pin/bracket assembly drop in as a unit, being fastened to the stringers at the top of the case sides. This setup can't leak and the board can be removed from the boat, while it's in the water. The lanyard lands on a cam cleat, mounted under the thwart.

[Ken_Potts]

Paul - The board arm keeps the board from over-rotating.  Does your setup have anything besides the uphaul to do that?  I have seen a CS20 go aground in mud or sand (can't remember which) and when the boat lost way it was pushed back over the centerboard because it didn't have the control arm to stop it.  It took a lot of effort between two boats to get that centerboard back to where it was supposed to be.

The other things I liked about having that control arm was the visual confirmation of the position of the board and the ability to hold the board in position partially deployed (I sailed a lot of shallow water back then).

[PAR]

Yes, there's a stop to prevent the board from dropping down more than intended. The hoisting lanyard can be marked, so you know what it's position is. I used a black Sharpie, but you do know relative position by how much lanyard you have showing. I used a lawn mower replacement pull handle on the end to make yanking it more comfortable on the CS, but have also used a 1.5" wooden ball too.

[Tom Lathrop]

I have had several centerboards rigged similar to Paul's and they work well, particularly on larger boats where the board is usually all up or all down.  My BRS LOON had Graham's standard up and down haul and I did not like all the lines and the necessity to adjust boat for every position other than full up or down.  Actually, I do like the lever are for all the reasons mentioned.  LAPWING's CB is lead weighted which gets rid of the down haul and the need to adjust it.  Nothings perfect but this is my favorite for these boats.

[Jim Stumpf]

Thanks for the input. I have done weighted boards on the NF15 and even my Bolger Pirogue (and they work great) but used the stock setup on the CS 17. Great input and discussion but a major retrofit is not in the cards so soon to the start of the season, was thinking of a scaled down rigging option on the existing. As always PAR has a great solution and documentation for contemplation.

 

 

Thanks,

 

Jim

 

 

An afterthought just came to me, I remember reading somewhere recently about weighted centerboards that are not secured while deployed could be a hazard free falling back into the trunk during a capsize. OK it is only 20# to sink this board but food for thought.

[mattp]

I have the standard CB on my CS17 (with control arm) and in a rush-to-launch situation, I went with a simple 1:1 on uphaul and downhaul. I thought I would change it later but 1:1 seems adequate. The only issue I can see with it is that it swings quickly and hits the limits with a lot of momentum.

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[PAR]

I've used the above setup on many designs and builds over the years, now having it pretty refined. Yeah, the board can swing back into the case in a capsize, but usually there's enough friction to keep all or much of it still exiting the slot, while the boat is lying on her beam end. On smaller boats, the arm sticking up out of the case can be handy and a little friction, is all you need to keep it wherever you want it.

[Jim Stumpf]

We worked on a modified set up this morning which I will get rigged up today and I will share pics. The uphaul will remain unchanged and the downhaul will keep true to its orginal theme but will be rigged slightly different to keep it out of the footwell, bunk-board area.

 

Thanks,

 

Jim

[Don Silsbe]

I used PAR's mod's on my BRS15 build.  I love it!  It clears the area nicely.  Sure, the original set-up is simple, but it clutters up the crew's area.  

[Jim Stumpf]

Nice build Don.

[Don Silsbe]

Thanks, Jim.  I'm very happy with the outcome.

[PAR]

The CS and BRS serieses are just big enough to really benefit from the closed centerboard case. As usual, you've done a nice job Don, clean neat, no obstructions, etc.

 

 

 

With the sole slat boards raised up, a perfectly clean, uncluttered forward cockpit, which was the point of closing it in.

 

All this said, if I was looking to race these puppies, I'd use the arm out of the top of the case and instead of a multiple part tackle assembly, I'd just use a bungee cord over the pin on the arm. It would hold it down as well as hold it up, which just a single bungee. I've used this arrangement on smaller boats, mostly to save weight and decrease complexity. The bungee runs through a jam cleat to adjust tension.