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Core Sound 20 Mark 3 Build - Chesapeake, VA


AmosSwogger

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I just finished sanding down the bunk supports (that was real fun!).  I was thinking about glueing down the cabin bunk tops, but realized I hadn't put in a cleat on the module.

 

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I feel like a real boatbuilder now that I have used some props.

 

I enjoyed getting a chance to look at your boat Jay.

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Getting close to putting the bunk tops on but need to finish underneath.  After sanding and coat of epoxy everything come out looking good (too bad no one will see it!).

 

The dark colored fillets are caused by running out of B&B filler and using sawdust to supplement/stretch out my supply until I could get some more.

 

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Very very nice work Amos. I can testify that it is very satisfying once you have epoxied the area and then fit the prepared bunk tops. (I did three coats - first one sanded then the third onto the second while it was still green). I also coated the bunk tops prior to gluing them in and used masking tape on the lines that would be glued so that the epoxy and glue would soak in a bit and maximise the bond.

As for me, I'm finishing the cabin sole and will then paint out the entire cabin area prior to fitting the cabin top (deckhead). Will post pics once the painting is done.

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What would you guys recommend for an access hatch in bulkhead 1 (to access the area under the anchor well)?  An 8" (outside diameter) Armstrong hatch would require cutting a 6.75" opening.  Will cutting an opening of that size comprimise the structural integrity of the bulkhead?

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I have the bunk tops installed and filleted/glass taped in place.  They are pretty solid but flex a little when walked upon.  Should I fiberglass the surface of the bunks tops to reduce the flex?  Once the cabin is in place they won't be walked on like they are now, so maybe it is isn't necessary.  I don't want to waste time with it if I don't have to.  Thanks in advance for your advice.

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Nope, live with the flex until you don't need to walk around on it anymore. A light sheathing isn't going to help much in this regard anyway. If you're truly concerned about the amount of flex, lay a hunk of 3/4" plywood over the area, so you can walk around on that, until the cabin is installed.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Paint Question:  I put down a coat of Interlux Brightsides (in the storage area between bulkheads 2 and 3) three days ago.  The paint is not hardening; I can easily scratch it off with my fingernail.

 

The shop is between 55-60 degrees.  The paint was still tacky after one day, so I made a little tent with a heater inside and left it running for about 20 hours.  It got pretty warm inside the tent.

 

 According to the manufacturer the minimum temp for painting Brightsides is 50 degrees.

 

I'm confident in my surface prep.  I washed the epoxy with water to remove any blush, sanded it with 80 grit, and vaccummed and wiped it clean with alcohol.

 

Any idea what the problem is?

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