Jump to content
Panda FREE Antivirus for Personal Use (affiliate link)
Lotus

An other OC20 build !!

Recommended Posts

Lotus    8

Thanks smccormick,

 

The " dingy " is just 4.5 ft . There will be a glass top resting on all 3 seats and is going to be used as a coffee table !

 

At this time being I have no intention to keep the oc on a mooring , she will be trailered back home . My location is 5 minutes away from the slipway

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Lotus    8

Last weekend was busy fabricating the lifting strakes or splash rails . After getting all the measurements of width height and deadrise angle for every 10" of the strake, I transferred these measurement on to an angled aluminium strip , trimmed out the markings and therefore this aluminium strip became a mold (plug) of the strake itself !

All I had to do than is fill the mold with thickened epoxy , separate the cured epoxy strake from the mold and glue them onto the hull !

 

This way was much more easier to do than I thought :D

 

As you can notice if photo 1 the aluminium L strip was covered with plastic  tape so that the epoxy will not bond to the strip , in fact when cured it came out very easily ( photo 2 )

 

 

Hope that this will information will help someone out there because my impressions where that fabricating the strakes on to a modifies deadried hull is one of the hardest things to do !!

 

 

20170714_171233.jpg

20170716_083542.jpg

20170716_121728.jpg

20170714_171252.jpg

20170716_204527.jpg

20170716_204503.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
capriosca    6

Yes this is very helpful information. Unfortunately, like Tim, we went thru the pain of cutting them from timber. I have a feeling that you will be pressed for finer details of your method by those also facing this task. Great work as always.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Lotus    8

Hi guys, what do you think about this fairing method to get a smooth perfect finish ?

 

First apply thickened epoxy (407) with a grooved  trawler ( pic 1)  , than long board sand until it's almost straight   ( ie some of the resin grooves had disappeared ) pic2, than repaste thickened epoxy with a straight edge trawler to fill the remaining grooves . 

 

I think this method saves a lot of sanding fatigue and also lots of epoxy material too . Basically you're sanding only the upper point of the grooves on most parts and not the whole area to get it leveled !!  

 

Any ideas and comments ??

20170717_122826.jpg

20170717_195442.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
PAR    188

This method is well known, but isn't light, nor fast. You'll apply twice as much, maybe considerably more fairing compound as normal methods and you'll spend more time sanding too, because you have to do everything twice. It is good for novices, as it's easier to identify lows and highs, but it adds a thin layer of fairing compound to the hull which ideally is sanded away, except in the low spots. In reality, most just leave a continuous coating of thickened goo all over and bring the lows up to the slightly knocked down highs.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
smccormick    18

I've considered trying that method too, particularly around the areas where you are blending glass overlaps.  Just sanding off peaks in the application should produce much less work and less material usage in that area.  Possibly using smaller v-grooves in the field.  In the end I was worried about secondary bond strength in the unsanded valleys so I've never tried it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Oyster    16

One way or the other, you will need to fair that hull, which has some curves on it. The bottom not so much.. Its one thing if you think you can get by with one layer that will create a fair surface.  But the notch method saves you a load of work when doing your initial fairing, along with materials.  Then when you go back and apply the second layer onto the notch layer and then sand, the notch layer will actually show if you down thru the new layer and tell you how deep you have gone and if you end up with some low or high spots.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×