DreadBiscuit Posted February 22, 2016 Report Share Posted February 22, 2016 First time poster; Long time follower. I'm finally getting ready to build my ShortShot. I have found 1 x 6 WRC that I can rip down for stringers. It is actually 7/8" thick, of course. I known the plans call for 5/8" but I do not have access to a planer. Is it alright to keep 7/8" thickness on all stringers and just have the stringers stick out farther from the frames (still cut notches in the frames at 5/8" deep to keep from compromising frame integrity) or should I cut notches 1/4" deeper to accommodate the thicker stringers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kudzu Posted February 23, 2016 Report Share Posted February 23, 2016 You can run the stringers through the table saw using a feather board and cut them to 5/8" width very easily. I would recommend a fine tooth blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Action Tiger Posted February 23, 2016 Report Share Posted February 23, 2016 Don't notch your frames deeper! Being as I am THAT guy, it really wouldn't be all that much to plane them by hand, either. I mean, +/- 1/4" of cedar? Easy peasy, even if you only have a block plane. Because I really don't like to flip those switches can I help it. Another option is to find a local cabinet guy, or furniture maker. Yes, Virginia, they exist all over. It'll be some guy who will more than likely be tickled about your neat little boat project, mostly because it isn't a box, and will plane your little sticks (or whole boards) for a small fee. Same guy probably has bb ply for sale... Good luck. Have fun. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DreadBiscuit Posted February 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2016 Thanks guys! I have an extensive carpentry and (somewhat-basic) woodworking background (framing a wall doesn't have to be super accurate...my experience has been those where + or - 1/4 " isn't that big of a deal) and the idea of running them through the table saw at 5/8" occurred to me after the post, thanks Jeff. I definitely did not plan on notching the frames deeper unless someone (Jeff) told me explicitly it's ok. As an engineer, I know all bout structural integrity and dispersing loads. I was mostly concerned about the added weight. I have zero experience using hand planes, however. I think I'll try to table saw first, then if i have trouble I may ask for resources for planing methods or tools. But I think the table saw will be fine. I really appreciate everyone's input and prompt responses. Hopefully in the next few weeks I will have some photos up with a new build thread. Still in graduate school, so it will be slow going while I work around my schedule. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DreadBiscuit Posted February 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 Just curious, What is the reason you say to go with 5/8" instead of 7/8"? Is it just weight savings or is there some other underlying factor(s)? Was talking to a friend and he said just leave it 7/8 and it will stick out a bit farther. Any issues with this? I'm not a boat guy by any means, so i'm not sure of the implications. I just enjoy kayaking and building things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uncleralph Posted February 25, 2016 Report Share Posted February 25, 2016 The bending stiffness of a square beam is proportional to the cube of the thickness, so a 7/8" stringer is almost 3 times (actually 2.74 times) as stiff as a 5/8" stringer. That is the theoretical answer - whether from a practical standpoint that additional stiffness will make it hard to bend the stringer to the shape of the boat, I don't really know. I would go with the designers specification. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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