JPower210 Posted December 8, 2015 Report Share Posted December 8, 2015 Hey y'all- I am not too far from flipping my 17 and fairing/glassing the hull. I am using Xynole for the whole hull- there are lots of oysters around here, and I sail in really shallow water most of the time- I have never used Xynole, and am sold on the abrasion advantages- the question is, do I still run a strip of FG tape down the chine for strength since the Xynole is better at abrasion than strength, or will the Xynole suffice? And if I do use the tape I assume that it goes under the Xynole. And for those that have done a hand layup on a hull with Xynole- is it worth it to use peel ply? Thanks- JP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted December 8, 2015 Report Share Posted December 8, 2015 Xynole will not hold the seam, it's just for abrasion. Yes, the Xynole is the last layer of sheathing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Stewart Posted December 9, 2015 Report Share Posted December 9, 2015 If I wanted to Xynole the bottom I think i would first tape the chines with FG tape and then apply the xynole only to the bottom and carefully cut it to butt up against the edge of the FG tape and not overlap it. I only see the Xynole being needed on the bottom of the hull and since it's not for strength why make the chine so thick with extra material. I have used Xynole on kayaks for a rub strip and it absorbs A LOT of epoxy. easily 4 times that of fiberglass cloth with similar feeling thickness. Anyway, i think that's what I would do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted December 9, 2015 Report Share Posted December 9, 2015 I agree Alan, a fully Xynoled hull will add a lot of weight, require a lot of goo and fairing effort, for little appreciable gain. On the bottom and around the chine, yep, there's a real need, but once you get a few inches up the topside planking, not so much, unless you're dragging it sideways over sand bars. You're not going to " . . . carefully cut it to butt up against the edge of the FG tape and not overlap it . . .", as the thickness differences will insure some fairing will be necessary at this joint, so I'd recommend overlapping the edge of the 'glass with the Xynole, before stopping it, if only to protect this edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale Niemann Posted December 9, 2015 Report Share Posted December 9, 2015 I used Xynole on the keel extended about 4" on each side of it. Then I also added a piece about 8" wide by about 2 ft. along each outer side of the bottom over to the chine about in the center of the boat fore/aft. In other words about where the bottom chine would rest when the boat is pulled up on the beach. I have been very happy with this arrangement. Since 2007 I have beached it many times and it has done a great job of abrasion resistance. I have not however taken ground over oster beds. I totally agree with Alan that you will use about 4X the epoxy on Xynole as compared to glass. Therefore, if you did the whole bottom to the water line or even just the bottom you will increase the cost and weight significantly. Now that I think about it that is the only protection I have on the bottom. I did not glass the bottom just the chines and area under the keel. dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.