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CS 17- Port or Starboard for Motor?


JPower210

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I may be missing something obvious, but I am trying to figure out why some folks put a motor on the starboard side and some on the port?  I am leaning towards port as I am right handed an would probably be sitting on the port side most often when motoring which would let me get to the controls easier, as well as putting that sheet tangling handle outboard as far as possible.  The downside to that is then I have my weight, and the motor, on the same side.  I have a Honda 2.5 so the weight is not a huge issue.

 

Thoughts?

 

JP

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Mine is on the starboard side so I would have easier access to the controls, particularly the "kill switch". I'm not sure there would be any more/less issue with the mizzen either way since the sheets usually foul on the motor's cowling rather than the handle.

post-539-0-97715100-1448986439_thumb.jpg

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Om my CS-17 Mk-3, it's on the stb'd side to give clearance for the tiller handle which is on the port side of the motor. Otherwise it interferes with the cockpit coaming/seat back.

 

On this picture, the coaming is yet to be built, but you can see how close the well and motor are to the side. It has to be far enough away from the center to allow the rudder to swing without hitting the prop when the motor is running.

post-1823-0-40894000-1448987715_thumb.jpg 

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Put the motor to starboard.

 

I put mine to port, borrowed a motor to try the fit and found my folly. The tillers are on the left side of the motor which means that if I want to steer with the motor I have to lift the tiller to turn to starboard. Typically, you center the motor and steer with the tiller but when maneuvering, it is good to vector the thrust by rotating the motor. On these small motors, there is no reverse. You must rotate the motor 180 degrees to reverse.

 

I decided to leave the motor to port because the transom was already cut. I rarely use the motor so it was not worth the bother to repair the transom and I will learn to lift the tiller. If you are starting from scratch it is a no brainer. 

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Dave, slight hijack.

I was becalmed the other day (!) in my dumb little canoe and discovered it would scull along nicely with just the rudder if I lifted the blade to a more horizontal position. I have a push pull tiller and wonder if this made it work better, but I also wonder if you could just rudder scull your boat?

Can't get more KISS than that, eh?

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I knew it would't be too long before someone jumped in with an oars comment-  :)

 

I definitely prefer oars, and always have a set onboard, but when the current is running 5 knots, the wind dies and there is a million dollar plus sportfisher down current from me, well that motor sure comes in handy.  And when the wind dies and my 3 year old decides it is time to go home, it's even more handy   :D

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I guess this is the first time I disagree somewhat with Graham.  I have my 2HP Honda on the port side and have never had any trouble maneuvering it.  This includes 180ing it for reverse.  I have been using it this way since launch in 2007.  I will say that I do not have the aft deck which is exactly why I do not have the aft deck.  By not having it, I have ready access to the motor and can use it or the rudder for steering.

 

I do agree with Graham in that I try not to use the motor since I enjoy sailing so much. But there are occasions when it is very convenient.

 

I also have oars but have only used them a few times and hate them.

 

dale

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Dale, I think that turning the Mk-1 into the Mk-3 is where the problem occurs. The cockpit coaming/seatbacks are the problem.

 

Meaning that it would not be an issue on the Mk-1?  I do have the aft deck, no hatch in the deck, so from a motor perspective I see where, as Dale says, not having the aft deck would be helpful, but since it is there, it seems like keeping the reach across the deck as short as possible  would be optimal (predominately sitting on port side, reaching across deck on port side, would be preferable to a reach across the boat in addition to across the deck)   I know I am overthinking this.  Additionally, the motor will be on a bracket rather than a cutout in the deck-

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Here is my motor on the port side on my CS-20 Mk-2 which is more like the Mk-1. It worked fine on that side even though I had to lift the tiller a bit to turn the motor to port. I actually prefer it on that side for some reason. Maybe because the tiller in out of the way. With a bracket, there should be no problem on either side.

 

I don't like a bracket on the transom for at least three reasons. I. The motor is harder to reach to steer and add fuel, 2. It fouls the mizzen sheet easier. 3. It is more likely to be swamped by a following sea. Heck, as long as I'm at it, I'll add a couple more. 4. It is harder to get off and on if you are going to stow it aboard, 5. It looks even uglier than hanging on the transom. These are my reasons and I'm sticking to them. I've had "kickers" mounted both ways, so have had some experience. My favorite set-up was the motor mounted in a well on My Princess Sharpie.

 

post-1823-0-15170600-1449268070_thumb.jpg  post-1823-0-87154100-1449268090_thumb.jpg

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One thing that could have an effect.  Motor shaft length.  I have a 20 inch on my CS 17.  I actually had to increase the transom height about 1 inch so have had no problems swiveling it. Of course that makes it snag the sheets a little more.  Chick, it appears that your transom may be cut out a little which may cause the problem with the handle.

 

dale 

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Dale, the sheer was higher on my Mk-2 than the Mk-1, and I had actual seat back / coamings which are higher. My motor is a short shaft, commonly called "15 inch". (Actually, the transom height is about 17 inch for this motor rather than 15 inch. All very confusing.) On a sail boat, you need to be sure that the cavitation plate (In reality "anti-cavitation plate") is well below the water line.

 

Boat stuff is confusing anyway. Ever here where the terms "port" and "starboard" came from? Here 'tis: In the olden days, way back before even my old pappy's time, the sailing ships in good old mother England would come out of port and turn either right or left. Iffen they turned left to go with the flow, the ports would be on that side---the port side. And there'd be nuttin on the other side but stars---the starboard side. Now I know this is a true story cause I got it from real members of my family. Cousin Johnson and his brother, Mr. Evin Rude. They would NEVER tell me wrong, y'all!

 

Now, as for the term "snotter"......well. I think I'll leave this one to your imagination...

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  • 2 weeks later...

I don't like having the motor on the transom because it was always fouling the mizzen sheets. On Bandaloop, the motor lives on the port side on an adjustable bracket. I mostly steer with the rudder under power, so having the motor tiller on the wrong side isn't an issue. Having it on the port side also makes the F-N-R shift lever more accessible. 

The transom isn't strong enough to trailer the motor on the bracket, so I always remove the outboard and put it on the back of my car. 

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I have the stern deck, and find it convenient to sit on the deck when running the motor that is mounted to port.  I too, steer with the tiller, but will grab the tiller in the event of a need for evasive maneuvers such as at a crowded boat ramp (thank you East Providence boaters, please load and go.).  

 

The point about having access to the F-N is a good one.  I turn the Tohatsu 3.5 180 degrees for reverse.  I do need to remember that when it is not all the way over, I can hit the rudder blade with the prop.  So far, no harm, no fowl.  Still thinking the Honda 2.5 might have been a better choice.  On a bracket, it would miss the rudder, but would be more difficult to reach.  Mizzen sheet fowls either way, so I have put a ring with a bungee on the sheet to pull it forward when reaching and running and it works very well.  

 

Installing oar locks and making 9'6" oars so I can leave the motor home more often when we are not pressed for time.  

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