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Drew

Aussie CS 20-3#5 "Dragonfly"

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Pete McCrary    38

Graham,...

I've been calling my CS20.3 "Chessie" the #5 hull. Alan thought pretty sure that was my number. If that is the number for Drew -- what # should be assigned for "Chessie" ? Earlier I asked to whom #4 had been assigned. No one seemed to know. I think that #1 is Dough, #2 is Jay, #3 is Steve W. Question: Is my Cs20 Mk III ("Chessie") #4 or #6 or some other number? I don't have a preference -- just looking for consistency.

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Designer    161

Peter,

 

According to Carla's records for the CS20 mk3, Doug is #1 Jay and Carol #2, Steve is #3, you are #4, Drew is #5, #6&7 are in the Philippines and #8 is in Australia.

 

If We have missed anyone out, please let us know. 

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Steve W    41

Two years from now I bet hull # 28 will under construction!

 

Hopefully hull #3 won't! Making great progress Jay. We need more pics of Southern Express.

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Pete McCrary    38

Sorry, I should have verified my hull number with Carla. I'm ok with #4. But my "Build log" is missed named. Is there anyway that "Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #5 started . ." can be corrected to show #4 started? Maybe our "Forum problems?" guy (Frank) could fix it.

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Pete McCrary    38

Thanks, Steve,...

That was easy. Now I just have to remember that my "Chessie" is #4. That'll be like the canary in the coal mine. Sometimes I climb out of the boat to get a tool -- and by the time I get to my work bench ..??? Talk about "measuring twice,...", !!

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Hello everyone,

This is my first post so please excuse any unintended impoliteness. I'm a novice boatbuilder located in Melbourne, Aus (the CS20Mk3 will only be my second after a CLC Northeaster Dory build fron plans a couple of years back) so these threads are extremely valuable to me.

In post #6 Drew showed his hull pieces ready to be unfolded. I am just wondering whether there is an adjustment in bulkhead size to be made when one builds from the plans rather than the kit, as the kit square tooth jointing method would lose an inch or so of material. Also, I notice Drew has pre-jointed the bow sections as recommended by the designer and I am keen to understand how he implemented those - did you use some sort of a jig?

I plan to start my build in the first qtr of 2016 (need to construct a lean-to shelter on the side of the house first - the first boat was built in our games room and I'm not bold enough to do that again). Seeing the posts on hull numbers, my letter from Carla had hull #9 written on it.

Blessings, John T

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Steve W    41

Welcome John. I am sure Alan and Graham have that all figured out. When I build my Spindrift 11N, I butted the two panels together and adjusted the distance from the corners of the panels and then fiberglassed taped the two sections in symmetrical pairs. I bet it is the same, just bigger. I am totally dreaming of the day I finish #3. I got side tracked on a few honey-do projects and a Christmas project with the kids. but I'm back at it in earnest now. I look forward to hearing another voice in this group!

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Thanks Steve, I'm looking forward to participating where I can. You are no doubt right, the designers would have it all figured out. The set of plans that I received didn't have any views of the boat from the bow or the stern, it doesn't look like they are needed for the build but I did wonder about this as the drawing sheets are not numbered. Has anyone measured the "head-room" within the cabin?

All the best with the completion of your build.

Blessings, John

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Lochland    0

Hi all

 

 Thought I would check in now. I will be building CS20mk3 hull #10 from templates. I am Greg Mc and I live in Colorado. My goal is to have "Saga" built by next August and go to the Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival with it. I thought I might have had my plywood ordered by now from Edensaw but I suddenly need to buy a replacement vehicle so my big start is on hold for a bit. I'll start my own thread when I can begin in earnest. Looking forward to building a boat that has so much support.

 

  Cheers

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Casper    2

Hi Drew

 

Sorry I didn't know earlier that you are up on the Sunshine Coast at Chrissie. I am in Caloundra and I am on the home straight with a Core Sound 20. I have made birdsmouth masts and they are lighter than they look. Be careful of the profile in ally as an oval fore and aft section (a' la Hobbie) is good fore and aft, but floppy athwartships !

 

I am interested in your decision regarding a lead foot. Is the boat a little tender without it?

 

Looking forward to seeing your progress. All the best for the new year.

 

Howard

 

 

post-2522-0-75683400-1451460152_thumb.jpg

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Designer    161

John T,

 

The plans version has been modified from the kit. Just follow the full size templates. You do not have to cut dovetails or notches along the chine joint, they are for alignment not strength. While they are nice to have, with a little extra care with alignment your hull will end up no different from the kit version.

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Steve W    41

This question of headroom seems to come up a bit. I traveled all the way to Tennessee to look at Doug's CS20.3 #1. The original thread has a lot of info and is here:

 

http://messing-about.com/forums/topic/8838-cs17-mk3-and-cs20-mk3/

 

Post 203 was my report. Another thanks for Doug's hospitality. I put a pic of myself sitting in the cabin. I'm 6'0" and without a cushion I could sit easily, but if you were any taller it gets iffy. A cushion in the berth lifts you, but a back cushion brings you away to more headroom and I decided I was good to go. To me there is no sense having a cabin if you can't sit in it and read. In the kit version the roof is supported much differently than Doug's.

 

And Howard.....if that is your boat...Wow!

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casimkus    0

I have arrived at the point where the two halves of the hull are ready and waiting to be joined. 3D before Christmas? Depends on how many jobs the boss gives me around the house!

Hi Drew, I'm also in Canberra and have been considering the CS20.3. Would be happy to help if you need an extra pair of hands unfolding the hull panels at some stage in 2016.

 

Chris

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Drew    13

Thanks Graham, good to know the hull number. Well, I'm back at it after the Christmas break and guess what I found in my garage today. All those hull bits came together nicely. Thanks again Graham for a beautiful looking design. She looks fast and sea kindly just sitting on the cradle. The 6oz glass on the stem is temporary and will mostly be ground away, but I wanted extra insurance to keep the stem true as I set the chines. Procedures and Mods? I decided to glue the edges of the chines as I wired them in place to seal the ply edge and to help maintain shape until I fillet and glass them. Only mod so far is a decision to install a 9mm thick transom for additional strength in the stern. Sorry, I can't persuade the second pic to stay right way up. Tip your computer over guys :)

post-4623-0-24003800-1452340364_thumb.jpgpost-4623-0-94010500-1452340448_thumb.jpg

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Drew    13

Oh, I forgot. Because I butt joined the sheets and used 6mm ply backing over the butt joints, on the forard hull joins I sawed halfway through the ply in a fore and aft direction, a bit like cabinet makers use to get curves in solid timber. This allowed the lovely curve to take place in the fore foot. The second photo vaguely shows it where the lead weights are sitting. Howard, what a bummer. I should have kept up to date with the forum. I was in Caloundra over Christmas. That's my home town - grew up and wreaked havoc there as a kid. Then the navy kidnapped me for a few years...

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Steve W    41

Looking good. I am not sure, but it looks like you are filleting the boat already. I'd be thinking of putting the bulkheads in at the very least to get the shape of the sides vertically right before the glue sets. I have the panels ready to unfold but I'm waiting to get the cockpit module built to unfold as per the manual. You want that boat to be nice and true. I think pete's boat was built this way and I am pretty sure the pics show the bulkheads held in temporarily. I also think somewhere there is a video of Alan clamping a temporary gunnel to keep it true.

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