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Aussie CS 20-3#5 "Dragonfly 2"


Drew

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On 10/1/2017 at 11:51 AM, PAR said:

The best advice is to not get greedy and sail too close. Divided rigs by their nature prefer to sail lower. If you sail too high, about 40% of the boat's drive is working in the backwind of the main, so free her up, enjoy the speed and make an extra tack or two.

 

I knew this intellectually when I built my Lapwing, but it was still hard for me to accept that my new boat was not as weatherly as a sloop and I needed to modify my technique a little.  Sailing on a shallow salt pond with narrow channels and strong tidal currents in some of the channels, having to keep my board partially up and resetting the release cleat even so eventually got through to me that sailing a bit fat and keeping up a good speed works better than pinching in these boats.  Pinching is rarely a good idea, but the effects are exaggerated in a divided rig.

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A tongue and cheek reply to Dave's observations on the cat ketch's pointing abilities, where I obviously should have been more clear. I made this upgrade on a conventional ketch of mine, just to see what would happen and I can nearly hang with a sloop and it's far better, than the traditionally proportioned fixed ketch rig. On small craft such as the Lapwing of Dave's, it's not a major revision, though does add some complication. I use a cordless drill to move mine, though originally used a 3 part tackle.

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Yep, I've found the upper 2/3's of the mizzen provides effective drive to windward with the windward cant. Typically the mizzen is mostly blanketed, but if you can get it to peek out from behind the main a bit, she does much better. I get a total of 15 degrees of cant and more doesn't seem to help much, but this canoe body I'm using it on likes to sail flat anyway.

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On 10/1/2017 at 6:17 AM, Drew said:

As various people have said in the past, the Coresound flies when reaching and running, but I would love to hear any advice from experienced people (are you there Alan?) about getting the best performance upwind, especially close hauled. On my first attempts I have not been able to get her to point particularly high and still keep way on. If I close haul the sails too tight she just wallows without going anywhere fast. Suggestions guys?

 

Drew, 

 

The boat looks great and I am quite jealous as my wife an I started building ours but have not made much progress thus far due to me being very busy and also (mostly) that I took on a refit of my parents Core Sound 20 that we built in 2007 and she is stripped down awaiting re-painting. 

 

I would echo what the others have said with regards to sailing hard on the wind. to sneak up on being close hauled in light air and not to over sheet. I typically have the main sheeted to where the end of the sprit is in line with the gunwale or just inside it and the mizzen just a touch further inside the gunwale (sheeted slightly more than the main). Also make sure the the board is all the way down of course. 

 

We will be in close proximity to two finished 20 mark 3's weekend after next at our mess-about and Graham and I plan to get some good sailing time on them. 

 

-Alan 

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  • Drew changed the title to Aussie CS 20-3#5 "Dragonfly 2"

Yes, a thread on sailing tips would be great. I have gotten some good feedback on "Sailing the CS17". Thanks Alan for your tip on close hauling in light air on this thread. I often find that searching the forum is not as productive as i wished so having all these sailing tips in one place would be really nice.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well guys, I took Dragonfly2 out to race today, but they wouldn't let me. It seems that they can't find a rating for the Coresound 20. I will have to apply to the Australian Yachting peak body for a rating if I want to race. Ho hum! So I tagged along instead which meant starting behind the pack and no competing for line position. It was blowing 10-15 knots with gusts to 23. Our lake is renown for wind from every direction and strong gusts on a windy day. Other days are drifting races! I sailed single handed, full ballast tank and reefed, and on the down wind I was overhauling Careels and the like and interestingly both of the NIS Sharpies. One big one and one little one (no idea, maybe 18 to 20 foot). The small one had to deal with a death roll a couple of times when running, but I had no such problems. The Coresound could point as high, but the NIS made better speed at a high angle of tack and that enabled him to do one less tack than me and slip around a small headland in the lake and get away from me. Now that I have a bit of weight up forard, (anchor tackle and the battery), the boat seems to point better. An enjoyable day that confirmed that I still like cruising over short course racing. We have a race in Oz called the Marlay Point overnight race, I think the Coresound could do well in that.

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  • 2 months later...

Over the Christmas break we took the boat to Moreton Bay in Queensland and cruised around for a couple of days. My wife really enjoyed the boat and the accommodation below, so that is a big plus for future cruising. I hope to attach a few pics for you winter-bound yachties.

As many people have commented, the two and three step boarding ladders are great for stepping into the boat from shallow water when moored, but next to impossible to get into the boat from deep water.

The solar panel on the cabin top was no problem with raising and lowering the masts. I guess that would depend on one's agility, but I found it easy to walk the mainmast up by walking on each side of the sliding hatch and solar panel. 

Having the porta potti in a special locker in the cabin was no problem and we suffered no unpleasant chemical smells.

The only water leaks blew in under the front of the sliding hatch when we were driving through a serious rainstorm on the road.

Having the small galley in the cabin was great, and as extra protection we taped aluminum foil to the deckhead above the stove to protect from heat and grease.

Hopefully, here are some pics:

 

IMG_1633.JPG

Sun Shade.jpg

Alongside (768x1024).jpg

Looking Aft (768x1024).jpg

Looking Forard (768x1024).jpg

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12 hours ago, Jknight611 said:

Good idea!  I had a spacer in the centerboard trunk.  Started off as a good idea when we lifted the module into the hull, but some time in the build, some stray epoxy bonded the spacer into the trunk.  That was a heck of a mess! 

 

Jay, I HEAR ya about the spacer. Back when i was building some small fiberglass boats in my little boat company, I learned that lesson, too. With a bit of work, I got it out without ruining the boat. Back when I worked for good 'ol Charlie Morgan, I learned how to accomplish this sorta delicate task. "Don't force it---get a BIGGER hammer!"

 

But why this reply on this post???

 

And Drew, I'll add my thanks for the pictures. It's not been outa the 30s most days here in the Carolina mountains.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well friends, here is my latest little experiment on the wonderful Coresound 20 Mk3. Like many others I have found it inconvenient getting into the cabin when the masts are shipped due to the drop hatch being unable to be lifted out of its slide. We often want to get into the cabin enroute or prior to rigging to unclip the forard hatch cover. So this is my experimental solution. I originally used aluminum channels to slide the hatch into, so I removed the starboard channel and replaced it with some 10mm Al angle. I then made up a wooden sliding lock as the following pictures will show and also put a strip of Aluminum on the sliding hatch to act as a hard edge and add to its water resistance. I hope to load three pics showing the hatch closed in its normal slide role, then opening at the side to remove the hatch, and then a final shot of the hatch sliding up. The lock could feasibly be screwed down tight if conditions called for it. The rag and rope are purely to hold the hatch for the photo.  I will experiment further in the near future to see if the idea can be improved on without going to laser cut parts.5a7169a50e6ce_IMG_7230(1024x683).thumb.jpg.7bf0501f62df0e1daaf8d8c36ec3bf27.jpg5a7169ac80619_IMG_7232(1024x683).thumb.jpg.74d4751525eebb402035898a97026b29.jpg5a7169b541e5b_IMG_7234(1024x683).thumb.jpg.c1de88a424a7c67422ed5f27131726aa.jpg

 

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Drew, 


This is definitely an issue on the Mk3 with the masts in tabernacles and now more-so that we have added a mizzen tabernacle to the design in the latest version of the kit. Graham originally split his hatch (drop-boards, wash-boards, whatever you want to call em) horizontally into two so that he could remove them and stow them more easily. Personally, I thought having two boards was a pain but there is no doubt the two are easier to stow. I like what Jay and Caroll did on their 20mk3. It is split vertically down the middle and the doors hinge out like shutters but this can get in the way of cleats and is maybe not as waterproof although it seems to work just fine for them. They also have theirs on lift-off hinges so they can be stowed in nice weather. 

 

In any case, I came up with a change (see below) that we have incorporated into the ever-evolving 20mk3 kit. Now we have a 1 piece drop board which can be cut into two if the builder wished. The tapered sides means that the hatch only has to lift a few inches in order to be released from the front and back lips. This is in no way a new idea and these can be sort of awkward to drop in when you miss the edges but in my experience, you get used to what you have. 

 

8.jpg

new drop baords.JPG

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