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2016 R2AK Prep


ecgossett

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I'm starting a new topic for the 2016 R2AK since I understand some other B&B owners are considering the race.

 

I'll start by discussing the upgrades I'm working on for my CS17 MK1.

 

1) Pink hard foam under sides of decks, to help prevent water in the boat in case of a hard capsize. Also under forward deck. The foam will run all the way to seats, am figuring out how much I need to shave off near seats to keep  a comfortable seating angle. Up near underside of deck will have 4 inches, going to about 1/2" at bottom.

2) Replacing my bunkboards with 1/2" pink foam laminated with Glass. I saw this as deck boards on another small boat and thought they are a great way to provide floation and insulation for sleeping. Would make each side in two parts that locks down, versus having a total of two bunkboards one on each side. I discovered it was a pain to pull up the bunkboard to get to stuff when sailing, especially when ropes got caught trying to put it back down.

3) Finding a suitable VHF antenna for mast, to plug into portable VHF to extend range.

4) Installing the 3rd mast position I would have never considered using... If a mast breaks I need a way to sail the boat. ensuring the main mast has an extra halard installed, might mean a type of jig could be rigged if either mast where to break.

5) Looking at a SS or PVC arch across by the mizzan mast, to attach canvas running to dodger which is also getting stalled. I need a way for crew to sleep.

6) Upgraded solar capabilities

7)  Last but not least, I am looking at weight and room lost to put pink foam in the bottom of the boat to make the cockpit mostly self bailing (well by anderson self bailer). I would also mount some type of water storage on each side of centerboard to provide ballast and drinking water.

 

Last weekend I tested out a mustang work suit of which I took two on the race. Amazing floation, however it let water in, and it is extremely bulky and hard to store. Drysuit with layers under is much better for the race.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Small update:

 

After getting with my crewmate for the race yesterday, and going over the boat, Bruce came up with a novel idea. Use 3M 4200, and caulk the forward completely hatch shut, leaving bungees underneath it to ensure it's secured. Under the forward overhang install a rectactangle 9" tall waterproof hatch from duck works. We might be able to get a 14" tall but I need to figure out how much swing room the hatch needs.

 

Secondly we both think installing a 3rd mast position is an good idea (I need some help from the forum, I no longer have that sheet of plans), especially if a mast where to break in race.

 

Third, neither of us wants to race and be dangerous, but we don't plan on stopping to sleep on beaches.

 

Last, what do you guys think of graphite mixed with epoxy for bottom paint? Currently that is what I have, and the only thing I never did was wet sand the bottom, which is now a plan to increase speed.

 

Bruce will be attending B&B yacht messabout in OCT, and could you guys please show him the following:

1) 3rd mast position.

2) Dodger and sleep ideas

3) ladders for reboarding

4) tiller tamer

5) and useful ideas from expedition boats.

 

Oh we also intend on getting Alan nailed down on NACA foils, and what it would take to convert to a basket rudder with deeper foil, and a NACA centerboard, or at a minimum how much someone want to sell a nice CNC cut and weighed centerboard. Has anyone done NACA foils on there B&B?

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Dodger plans are following this idea: http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?193512-A-dodger-cuddy-tent-for-a-camping-rowboat

Thinking about PVC instead of wood. Also, front will be 30mil vinyl instead of solid color..

 

I'm tying to figure out how to make the aft cockpit tent on that link work, and have some sort of foldable clear vinyl flap to come centerline about the mizzen mast, so the aft part doesn't fill with air.. Also, a laminiated wood strip over tiller to give it space to move and attach the tent to.

 

Not sure if all this will make the boat to high a profile. The dodger I'm not worried about because it can be folder forward, and I plan on having rolled up fabric along the back edge that can unroll over person sleeping or cargo in high winds.

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Phil, do you have some good photos and description of your dodger? How high under the sail.. Did you rig any special downhauls to avoid having to go forward at all? How fast was it to get the dodger down? Could you see around it with no window?

 

DO you think there should be some kind of aft dodger for the guy driving? Especially in cold northern water.

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I have a very simple recipe for a tiller tamer:

  1. Attach a cleat to the top surface of the tiller, about 2/3 of the way forward.
  2. Attach both ends of a shock cord to points near the corners of the transom.
  3. Use the middle of the shock cord to tie off to the cleat on the tiller.

You can see the setup in this picture... though the tamer is disengaged at this moment.

 

Keys_Trip__Don___Jason_Dec._27-Jan_1__20

 

An 'S Wrap' works best to engage it-- you snag the shock cord on the right side of one of the cleat's horns, then run the other side of the cord around the left side of the other horn-- to give you an easily adjustable tiller, and it's super easy to pop off the cleat if you need to disengage.

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I have an SOS bivy which I love.. I have been looking with envy at those goretex mil-spec bivy's. 

 

Currently I have a system based on Wes's (Roguepaddle.com) core sound 20's. Terry's system on my new tiller handle would work better and lenghten the shock core. I also need a slightly smaller eye bolt, because it interferes with turning rudder hard over.

 

For those long nights or days, when teammate is sleeping, and I want to screw around with GPS in light winds, or have to adjust something, grab food/drink, I think a electronic autotiller that can be used could really help.

 

I verified with Sailrite that he Shelterrite Vinyl Coated Polester really does glue together with the right glue, and is as strong or stronger then stitches (less chance of leaks). However, the Urethane Coated nylon cannon be glued to aft end of dodger, and will have to be stapled http://www.sailrite.com/Ripstop-White-1-9oz-60-Urethane-Coated.

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  • 3 weeks later...

We built a dodger from a Sailrite kit.  It came almost to the mizzen mast and provided a lot of protection for the off duty sailor and a good sleeping area using floorboards meant to bridge the area between the seat and the centerboard trunk.  Pictures at http://capt-doug.blogspot.com/2012/02/completed-boat-work-on-core-sound-20.html

 

I also think you should add the third mast step.  It is not much rouble to add and provides an excellent option in a dismasting.  It was designed for the sleeve sails without reefing, but it can be a godsend.

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Ed,

A Raymarine ST1000 came included with my Belhaven.  I would never have spent $400 on such a frivolous device but have become addicted to it for long trips under power.  I had two round trips this summer from Seattle to Port Townsend (30 miles one way) with no wind.  The auto tiller worked on one trip and failed on the other.   After it failed the 8 hours at the helm with an outboard in my ear was a completely different experience than using the auto tiller and being able to move around the boat and do other things like cook, clean, read, and hide from the weather. It is also nice to use under sail in light weather but is really kind of a novelty since a ketch self steers pretty well and I generally put kids and passengers on the tiller anyway.  

I don't know if it would be worth the expense on a CS17 where you're never far from the tiller, especially since you wouldn't want to use auto tiller under sail close hauled in anything but the lightest of winds.  

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