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Ravenswood Bow and Stern Finishing


bwhip

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I'm skinning a Ravenswood with 11.6 oz. polyester, using the double corded stitch method. I'm planning on sewing from the cockpit toward the the bow and stern, just like Jeff described in his Youtube video. I guess my main question is, will the fabric follow the upswept underside of the bow and stern as I progress to the ends of the boat? Jeff mentioned that it would, in this video (https://youtu.be/g9vYF2LWg9M?t=124) but that's with 8 oz. fabric.

 

I sewed a zig-zag basting stitch to pre-tension the skin (per Brian Schulz's youtube video https://youtu.be/VznUjj7fcs4?t=1712) and tightened it up pretty good, but the fabric didn't snug up on the ends. I haven't started sewing the corded seam because of this. Should I just jump in and start sewing?

 

Any advice from you professionals is appreciated.

 

I would include photos, but I went swimming with my camera, which didn't take kindly to the salt water.

 

thanks,

Rich

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First, I feel instructions/directions are like antibiotics. Don't mix them, and follow the whole course.

I'm not entirely sure what you are worried about, but I think you are worried about the ends being tight enough on the frame?

The double corded stitch allows you to pull a ton of tension into the fabric without tearing it. The cloth should resolve itself as you approach the ends. Just keep the pulling the cloth tight as you go, and adjust your stitches to keep even tension.

I think you are psyching yourself out. It isn't the bugaboo people think. After about twenty stitches it will all make sense, honest.

The hardest step is the first one...

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Thanks Robert. I think you're right about psyching myself out. I feel kind of like Calvin when he was learning to ride his kid-eating bicycle.

 

I'm wondering about whether I'm going to end up seamless where the red arrows are. The skin is going to have to move a whole lot in order for this to happen on mine. From what you say, it should gradually stretch into place. Time to dive in I guess.

 

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I got ha. My freeb was fat and no way would all the seam end up on top, but on some boats it will.

If not, you can cut and staple the overlaps and cover with a rub strip, or sew it up.

I sewed my freeb stems. A simple running stitch, then cut off, rolled under, and stitched over. Whip stitch, I guess.

I got a little fancy and hot knifed my seam ends to look more stemmy, and less ho-hoey or jelly-rolly.

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Waiting to see what others said and did. I learn this way too.  But no, you will never be able to pull the 11 oz up around the bow.  The weave is way to tight. The 8 oz is loose enough that you can stretch (actually shift the weave) it enough to have a smooth bow line.

 

What I like to do and this is just personal preference, is the staple the ends to the bow strip and then cover it with a brass rub strip.  I like the brass and the way it looks and protects.  

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There you go. Now all you need is a set of those nifty red push pins like in post #3! :)

Jeff, do you just staple down the cloth, one side over the other, then paint it? The rub strip gets bedded in caulk or somesuch, right? Just wanting to learn a bit more my own self.

I'm almost done with my Firefly interlude, and weighing my options early, though I do like the stitched cloth stems, too...

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Yes, I split it, trim it a little wider than the bow.  Pull it tight and staple it to the side of the bow strip.  Then I take the other side, pull it tight and staple it on the face or edge of the plywood. the hard part is trimming it tight with a hot knife and not putting a hold in the other side that you just stapled in place.  This is where canvas pliers really shine1

 

Next paint it and then add the brass strip with caulking under it.  I have had very good luck doing it this way, but I will warn that the 11 oz is thick enough it is not always easy to get it to lay perfectly flat sometimes.  8 oz. works very well.

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