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lenm

Ocracoke 20 in OZ

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Thanks Alan for your detailed reply.

I tried what you suggested and discovered the highs were voids full of epoxy.

I then tried larger pads in conjunction with pressing the sheet down with my hands a bit harder (to help expel any excess/pooling resin) before torquing the screws.

Problem solved!

Also helped tightening the screw in the middle of the planks first then working outwards (helped squeeze the excess resin out the sides).

 

 

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On 11/10/2017 at 8:03 AM, Alan Stewart said:

When it comes time to fair the hull (before sheathing) I would apply some kind of guide coat to the surface such as a light dusting with some contrasting color of rattle can primer (it doesn't take much) or spritzing the boat down with a spray bottle solution of denatured alcohol with some red food coloring in it. The alcohol evaps away leaving the light pigment on the surface. Then once you begin sanding all the small low spots will jump out at you and you can go in with a wide putty knife and apply microspheres to each area, then fair again and it should be ready for glass. You can repeat the coloring again if you wish depending on how far you want to take the surface. 

 

That's what i'd do anyway. 

-Alan

.

 

This is what I've seen done countless times.  Thanks.

 

I mentioned this a while back on another boat building forum and was blasted for even suggesting that any faring material go under the glass.  I shook my head & kept quiet (which is a struggle for me...).

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It is my opinion and observation that applying fairing compound under glass work is not always the best. Shrinkage comes into play when you have a disproportionate amount of resin to the faring balloons that's meant to float across a surface making it easier to sand. By far the thicker filler materials are harder to sand and can cause some craters in the wood, which is normally softer than the thickened resin. A mixture of fairing compounds and a final blend of cabosil is what I normally apply if I have any real deep dish on the woods. Then if need be apply a skin coat of fairing after sanding the harder materials. This is actually done with a soft pad and grinder to knock the surface skin off. Then go back with a DA. or random orbiter.

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