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lenm

Ocracoke 20 in OZ

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Hi all,

Len from OZ.

Excited to be building hull #39.

This should be quite a challenge as I have not actually built a vessel before!

I am hoping my skills in epoxy/composites (windsurfer construction) and measurements (surveyor) will get me over the line, in conjunction with Grahame's good plans:-) and hopefully some advise from experienced builders on this forum.

Planning to setup the boat for my favourite fishing being saltwater fly fishing and light tackle game fishing. It will replace my current 15 foot catamaran which has been in service for close to a decade now.

Jumped straight in and started roughing up a 1/10 scale model so I can get my head around the design.

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Len,

 

The model was a good idea, it looks really sweet. There is one exception; it appears that the sheer clamp passes over the stem. We had a builder over here that did that on the full size boat which led to a lot of work to rectify.

 

Remember that the bearding line marked on the stem and keel is the line that shows where the planking meets the outboard edge of the stem/keel. As the stringers and sheer clamp are on the inside of the planking, they must not be outside of the bearding line. The outside of the stringers/ clamp must not be proud of the bearding line. Because of the twisting force required, the upper edge may be end up proud of the bearding line, it is okay to plane that off.

 

There is a lot of bending and twisting of the stringers near the sheer line and the intermediate sheer. I have been redrawing the intermediate sheer on this boat to make it easier to bend by taking out some of the twist. The framing is fair and if the stringers lay tight to the framing, the surface will be fair. I have lowered forward end of the intermediate sheer at the stem about 6" (.150) so that it will take some of the twisting out of the operation. The stringer above and below have also been dropped forward to to evenly fill the space. I am going to recommend tapering the intermediate sheer down to stringer width at the stem to ease the bending.

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Rectifying the sheer clamp will be a lot easier in 1/10 scale than full size.  Building the model has already paid off and it will be cool to have a miniature replica of your boat to put on the mantel.

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Hi Grahame, many thanks for looking over this plus your detailed explanation. I get what you are saying in regards to the bearding line.

Can I say that this should be one sweet design for around here, and I suspect a real head turner given its beautiful lines and dimensions/layout. As you would be aware having spent time over here, 'flare' and 'tumblehome' is unique, and something only really seen on the odd rare US imported 35ft plus gamefisher (which we all drool over).

Hi ken, I am located in South East Queensland.

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Hi Len,

Good to see there is another Queenslander in the fold! I am currently building the OB-20, but without the cabin, as up here in Townsville it (the cabin) would become an "oven" in the summer. I too was drawn in by the flare and shape of Graham's designs and think that the OB will preform quite well in our bay and nearby islands. We look forward to some build pictures from you. (I still haven't figured out how to do it yet)

Trev

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Hi Trev, yes I would think an OB would be a great rig for your region. Are you going to incorporate a basic sun shade in substitute for a full cabin?

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Len,

Thinking along the lines of a simple collapsible sunshade, at least to cover the driving position and can be folded down for rod fishing etc. A long way to go yet and am still wrestling with the sanding and fairing part of the build.

Trev

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Hi Trev

To post photos you need to press "more reply options" at the bottom right corner of the "reply to this topic" section at the bottom of the last post.

This takes you to the page on which you can type your reply but also has a "choose files" option at the bottom. Press this and you should be able to select photos from your computer to add into the post. 

Many photos are very large files so you might want to reduce them to a comfortable size. I use EZ thumbnails for this.

Cheers

Peter HK

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Thanks , I will give it a try. Here's a couple of shots (hopefully) of the OB up to the glassed stage. Not much different to everyone's build, but never the less a stage to be happy with.

Trev.

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Hi everyone,

Good day to everyone we are joining from south cost of Turkey. We two amateurs we start to built OC 20 and any comments negative or positive highly appreciated..

Thanks to everyone and safe voyages.

I should say from this part of the world Graham and Carla they are both great people and they are very helpful.post-5254-0-70024800-1438620829_thumb.jpgpost-5254-0-84998200-1438620852_thumb.jpgpost-5254-0-21668800-1438620871_thumb.jpgpost-5254-0-52461400-1438620890_thumb.jpgpost-5254-0-12143200-1438620907_thumb.jpgpost-5254-0-92819100-1438620927_thumb.jpg

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Hi Len,

Nice choice of vessel I'd like to build one also but budget is a bit smaller, and now looking at building the Marrisa, I live in central Queensland and was after any info you could pass on with regards to obtaining the Australian Builders Plate.

Regards Joe 

 

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Hi joe, sorry for the late reply. There are a couple of options with respect to this. Basically you need to engage a 'qualified' person to sign the paperwork for lodgement. A 'qualified' person can be someone such as a marine surveyor, or even the outboard dealer who fits the outboard. I am having a surveyor go over mine, he is going to do two inspections, the first when the ribs are all complete, then a final inspection/sign off.

You don't really need a builders plate, however it may become problem if you ever try to sell the boat. Probably best for insurance reasons as well.

Len

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Hey Len ,

many thanks for that info,I've found contact details for a surveyor that visits Mackay regularly,

I'll drop him a line and get the requirements I need.

Regards Joe.

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