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Painting Aluminum Mast


Dale Niemann

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I have stripped all the old Rustolem for Aluminum spray can paint off 'Lively's' Masts and now want to paint with something that might last longer.  It lasted about 4 years before beginning to peel off.

 

Anybody out there know about a 2 part paint made to cover Aluminum?

 

thanks,

 

dale

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Dale-As you know I have not had a lot of time on water, but I checked into the subject pretty good after stripping MY rustoleum, and used Interlux Perfection and its corresponding epoxy primer, which I am pretty sure is Epoxy PrimeKote. So far, very good.

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Dale-As you know I have not had a lot of time on water, but I checked into the subject pretty good after stripping MY rustoleum, and used Interlux Perfection and its corresponding epoxy primer, which I am pretty sure is Epoxy PrimeKote. So far, very good.

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The trick with painting aluminum is how fast you can get the primer down, after you've cleaned and/or etched the surface, prior to paint. Aluminum oxidizes as soon as you abate the surface, so the best method has you abating as you're coating, such as scuffing the aluminum while applying epoxy. The usual solution is an etch primer and there are several. The top coat can be anything, though the LPU's will be the most durable, but if the primer is well attached, before much oxidation occurred, it'll last. If you waited even a few minutes between sanding and priming, some of the freshly cut aluminum will have developed an oxide, that just spreads under any coatings in time. So the story is, sand/etch and get the primer on as fast as you physically can, maybe a two person job, with someone painting, as you sand and wipe just ahead of them.

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Interlux interprotect 2000 has lasted 4 years on my boat and masts. Over this I used some Dark Green spray paint for aluminum from Lowes. I touched up some areas where it was down to metal due to wear and tear with just the straight up metal spray paint and it has been fine after prepping the surface prior to applying. 

 

As far as corrosion goes several companies sell thin plastic washers that are intended for going between things like SS snaps and aluminum hatches. They are as thin as milk container plastic, and saved the work to cut a milk container for the same thing.  Where ever I riveted the track I used the washer between track and mast, and on the rivets applied light anti seize.

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  • 2 weeks later...

As I previously said, I appreciate everyone's suggestions and I said I would report back on what I did use.

 

Well, time got away from me and I was panicked about getting the boat done in time for the Cedar Key, FL event which is the biggest small boat event in FL.  So I ended up buying Rust Oleam Professional primer for Aluminum and their topcoat in white enamel.  It looks great now, we will see how it lasts. I was very careful to sand and prime immediately. Two coats prime and two coats of enamel.

 

I made it to Cedar Key and had a wonderful weekend with just about perfect conditions.  There were only about 50 boats or so which was a little smaller than last year.

 

dale

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I am doing the same, but I am using self etching Rustoleum primer and a Valspar cover.  Did a lot of research and I gots to get this done.  Old submarine painter and I put together an approach.  He paints yard art, aluminum, iron, and steel.  For aluminum he uses RustO self etching primer and two to three good light coats.  We selected Valspar anti-rust for the top coat.  Ivory tint oil based paint.  His approach is it ain't the statue of liberty lets get this done.  I sanded the stops to a fine taper and did an 80 grit sand with mineral spirit wipe and then rough broad cloth wipe with acetone then primed, all went well and smooth.  Three coats about 45 minute apart and let set up for 30 hours or better.  Another rough broadcloth rubdown and we did the first coat of Valspar, oil based armor paint.  Using 4 inch high density foam rollers and it goes on smooth and light.  We figure three coats.  I want to keep it thin but complete coverage.  It looks good and it is efficient, still a bit tacky and when dry for 24 hours we'll sand 120 grit and do second coat and repeat for third coat.  Next step will be sail tracks and hardware on the boat.  We are arranging for 12 Bonniffied.........Certttiffffffied ...........and Homeland Security approved Lepppprrrechannnns to perform some magic on a full moon to lift the boat onto the trailer.  We are figuring to have lots of drums, bagpipes, green beer and a huge bonfire as some Irish fairies magically elevate the boat to its preferred resting place onto the trailer.  We will weep tears of joy, my bride will cancel the Viking funeral where I was to be the primary guest and "toasted" celebrity if this is not launched.    That would be a hot night that I would not look forward to, 6 years of effort brings us to this point and it had been a great adventure.

 

I plan on a light sand on her decks, bright mahogany stain and 6 coats of hard floor varnish.  Touch up the hull paint a bit for brightness and .

we'll take a picture or two and post.  Blessings to all

 

 

Jim Atkinson

 

Maria CS 20  104

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I gots to float or get the goat, I don't mind sanding and buffing the deck each year keeps me from the yard work.............. a well planned approach.  An excuse to clean and buff keeps me off the lawn mower and no weed wacker will touch my hands.  Little green folks are already applying for the party

 

 

Blessings to all

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