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Vardo Build


rustyshaklfurd

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Action,

Thanks for the timely reply.  I'll stop by the local SW store and see if I can get some samples and try them out on some scraps.  Getting more than one use out of the paint is definitely a win win.

 

Swim Smooth looks like a really good site with lots of good articles and resources.  Thanks much!

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You bet. I was inside trying to hide from the sun. It's 105 or somesuch misery, so, siesta time. I'm training for a marathon and a 40 miler, too, even though I quit all that nonsense last year. And hand watering a serious kitchen garden to feed the five of us. Boat time is for the evening, and I'm almost back to my kayak...

Not many folks in my town like triathlon AND weird little homemade boats.

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A few quick updates.  I was pleasantly surprised at how much the 11oz shrank. I was pretty worried with how things looked after I finished sewing, (lots of wrinkles), but for the most part everything ironed out and tightened up.  I pulled the trigger at SW and got two quarts of their All Surface Enamel Oil Base in indigo.  I know some people on here do not like dark boats but I believe the boat will turn out very nice (fingers crossed).  I cleaned the boat in preparation for putting on the first coat tomorrow.

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post-4951-0-00621000-1435946052_thumb.jpg

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Great! I was introduced to hockey by some friends who moved here from Michigan about 6 or 8 years ago, and I'm still unsure of all the nuances. My attempts to play have been comical, but I really enjoy the game.

What color are you going to do the deck lines and whatnot on your boat?

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The deck lines will be black.  I ordered about 8 ft of shock cord from Jeff's site.  Now I am thinking I might need more but I'll see where I am at.  I am thinking of using the skin boat school method for installation.  Two lines up front, two in back, and one way up front and back respectively.  I am debating about the color for the painters.  I think a yellow might look nice. Also I put the third coat on the bottom today after work.  The third coat should go on top tomorrow afternoon.  

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Thanks Jeff!  I have been mulling that over all day and cannot think of a way to make a perimeter line work with SBS method for the deck lines.  Looks like it is the tried and true nylon webbing instead.  I am also mulling over the idea of toggles.  Some of the local kayak groups require them for their group paddles.  My question is how do I make them, and from what materials?

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... I am also mulling over the idea of toggles.  Some of the local kayak groups require them for their group paddles.  My question is how do I make them, and from what materials?

 

I don't understand that, life lines are much more important and much more accessible than just toggles on the end.

 

Toggles are shown in the manual. If you want a handle I take a peice of gunwale stringer stock, drill a hole and thread both end through the hole and a knot. But I rarely every carry mine my them. I just pick it up and put it on my shoulder.

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Jeff,

Thanks for your reply.  I do not understand it either and I might reach out just to clarify.  Thanks for the idea about the handle, I'll check the manual for the toggles.  Tonight I plan to add the final coat on top and to pick up some nylon webbing for the life lines and deck rigging.

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I think if you had to hang on to your kayak for any length of time a toggle on the bow or stern would be the way to go.  But without perimeter life lines in the open and especially in wind your kayak would get away from you before you got to the toggles and they would become useless.

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Thanks!

 

I was reading the Nathan C's post on his shad build looking at how he did his toggles and deck rigging and came across the posting that a builder should not use a semi-gloss or flat for their paint on their boat as these tend to seep water.I thought I read something in the book or manual along the lines of "I have recently started going to the pain store and having my colors mixed. I just ask for their best exterior oil based enamel paint. ... If you are going to use paint I suggest a semi-gloss or even a flat finish."  My question is will I be ok since I used a satin?  I was going to fill the boat up with a few gallons of water prior to the launch.  I am probably worrying too much here but I am getting anxious for the water.  Here is a link http://www.sherwinwilliams.com/document/PDS/en/035777476406/ to the data sheet for the paint for what it may be worth.  Thanks in advance.

 

 

 

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Sorry. Canoe work, baseball coaching, running, tomato and pepper canning...

I used satin latex on my FreeB because it was there. I might have even skimped a bit on my base coats because I planned to do all the striping, and she don't leak at all.

If nothing else, you can always put some gloss poly or whatnot over your paint.

My favorite skin was the skin on the boat in my profile pic. It was the second canvas skin on that boat (still got the knuckles to prove I payed my canvas dues), and I got a bunch of orange shellac free, so I gobbed it on. I made patches and swirls and lines with overlapping coats, and it sort of looked like animals from far away. Still have the frame, the story stick, and the forms, such as they are, but that is a boat built for young me.

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No worries and thank you for the quick reply.

 

That is great about your FreeB and the satin.  I used an oil based satin exterior but the one post got me a bit anxious. Good to know about adding a gloss or poly over it if need be.  I held off on the deck rigging until I get a chance to "test launch" hopefully tomorrow.  I do not want to have to add paint of poly once hardware is installed.

 

I was wondering about the boat in the profile pic.  It looks pretty cool.

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