Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

[meester]

A few times I have gotten myself penned in by the tiller in the aft corner during a quick turn.   I don't remember how I got there, maybe dodging a log in the water or something.  A lifting tiller gives an escape from that dumb situation.  

[Don Silsbe]

I'm gonna have one on my boat, too.

[Chick Ludwig]

Don, ya mean you're gonna have a "log" in your boat? (As in "log in the water"?) Sorry, been around Action Tiger too much...

[Action Tiger]

Oh. I thought he meant he'd have a dumb situation in his boat...

[Chick Ludwig]

...or maybe a "dummy".

[Action Tiger]

In the interest of total disclosure, every boat I'm on has at least one dummy.

[Don Silsbe]

So, Pete!  How's that Chessie boat coming along?  

[Pete McCrary]

Well, Don ...

Fairly well, considering that the effort and traveling involved in selling my CLC PocketShip "Tattoo" lost me about two weeks. Plus some very cold weather. But now things are looking up!

The Bunk Tops have been dry-fitted and adjustments made to fill-in a too-narrow fwd end. With that done, I traced their outline on "contractor's" paper and made cut-outs for each side. They'll be laid on the bunk tops (after [the tops] are glued to the support frames) for protection from foot scuffing by the builder. The photo shows the paper cutouts in place.

The next photo shows the first epoxy coat on a Bunk Top bottom-side spread on at 10:30 this am. I'll do the second coat after the "thin film" sets -- hopefully after supper tonight. Presently, the outside temp is about 37 degrees -- and I manage to get the inside temp up to 64. If I can do the second coat this evening, then I'll do the other bunk top tomorrow.

After that, I'll start gluing them down onto their frames. I'm not setting a deadline, but I'm predicting a rate of progress that may have me on the water by September. But lots of things could get in the way of that.

[Chick Ludwig]

Just keep pluggin' along. It'll get done. Lookin' good so far!

 

Finally warm enough to get some sanding done on Summer Breeze.  .....after the "Honey do's" and "life" stuff for the day.

[Drew]

Here's a question to ponder. I wonder why Graham chose to use the area aft of the bunks as empty storage type space instead of carrying through for the tail end of quarter berths? The sides would need strengthening to make up for less web in the bulkhead, but it could be useful space as a bunk and then for bedding storage with no risk of bedding in the bilges.

[Pete McCrary]

Drew,... I think because it's useful in-cabin stowage. In the Cs20.3 the bunks are 7' 6.5" long and my legs won't even reach Blk#4. I considered the space aft of the bunks to be very hard to access -- so I fabricated drawers in which I could keep galley equipment and other stuff. See my posting at:

http://messing-about.com/forums/topic/9727-battery-base-pull-out-galley/

Also, if I can't stow the drop boards up under the deck between the fwd hinged hatch and the aft sliding hatch, I'll have shelving up under the cockpit deck between Blk#4 and Blk#5, port and starboard. Each shelf will be a distance under the deck such that two drop boards could be stacked. The other shelf will be useful for things that are kinda flat -- like charts, log books, etc.

[Don Silsbe]

Keep on keeping on, Pete.  The cold weather has us all juggling our tasks.  

[Pete McCrary]

I keep finding things to do before wiring on the sheer strakes.

My latest are sliding shelving up under the cabin space between Blks 4 & 5. The shelf height has 3 adjustable locations -- below the underside of the cockpit deck by 4.875", 3.875", and 4.75". The supporting shelf is actual 1/4" regular plywood. It has (underneath) a 3/4" square beam on its centerline for support. The sliding part is 3/16" ply with an oak veneer (top & bottom). It will have 1/2" x 3/4" quarter round on all 4 sides (flat side facing inward) to stiffen it.

I'm thinking the spaces could be used for stowage of drop-boards, drop-screens, hatch screens, charts, notebooks, socks & underware, pjs, pretty much anything fairly light, etc. It would remain dry even if the crew left the companionway hatch open during a downpour (while out-to-lunch, literally and/or figuratively).

After I add the quarter round I'll attach more photos. Maybe this will complete my pre-closeup tasks -- unless you guys can suggest more cool things easier-to-do-now than later.

[Action Tiger]

Charts. I got mocked for using charts the other day. They called me a Cave Man. Then they logged on to report to their 84 hard won followers the clever way they had mocked another person. Good thing they didn't find out we got a wall mount pencil sharpener and watch VHS tapes too...

You're boat is fantasticly clever so far. I just love watching it happen.

[Pete McCrary]

Well, guys ... I'm getting closer to wiring on the sheer strakes. Here's what I finished yesterday.

The quarter-round edges to the slide-out shelves were screwed on (to be glued later). Under the adjustable shelf I attached a 3/4" beam on its centerline (tapered to 1/4" at each end) to stiffen it length-wise. Before gluing, all exposed edges and corners of the shelving and support pieces will be rounded over. I'm thinking that I won't epoxy any of this, but will prime and paint.

The last photo gives you an idea of what the port-side drawer and shelving will look like from the cabin after the Blk #3 is in place along with the cockpit decking. I'd say NOT EASY to get to. But these drawers and sliding shelving will make access much easier. Under the drawers there is lots of space for several gallons of drinking-water bladders. Down as low as possible -- providing extra weight at least down low.

This morning I fretted with how I would deploy my anchor, handle its chain and rode. I've gone to the Internet for anchor rollers. Actually order one, which had to be returned as totally not appropriate for a Cs20.3. Finally found a "Marine Stainless Steel Hinged Self-launching Bow Anchor Roller 16-1/2" for Boat" by Five Oceans. The Amazon web page had a dimensional drawing. Using that and my 13 lb Rocna anchor -- I cut full-scale templates so that I could visualize an installation. It looks like it will be a very good fit just on top of the foredeck at the stem. I've already cut and fitted a breasthook at the top edge of the side strakes. That will be built up between the sheer strakes (and under the foredeck) to make a solid foundation for attachment.

The angle of the Anchor Roller will be set slightly (pointing to port) so that the pull of the rode on the starboard side of the tabernacle will be "in-line." The first 10' (or so) of the road is chain. I'll need some kind of chain grabber so that it can be secured when the anchor is fully retrieved into the roller. Probably find a place for it on the starboard side of the foredeck. When deployed, I think that I'll belay the three-strand rode to a cleat on the starboard side of the tabernacle. It will, of course, have to have a secure base.

My goal is to be able to accomplish (single-handed) any and all anchor tasks while standing on the forward bunk up-thru the the forward deck hatch WITHOUT EVER NEEDING TO CLIMB UP ON THE CABIN ROOF! I would really welcome any critical commentary on this approach. Also, ideas on the placement of such deck hardware that's needed to handle the anchor's rode, both chain and three-strand.

[Chick Ludwig]

I love your drawers and shelves. I plan to go back and add them to "Breeze", but how much harder it will be with the decks all in place...

 

I'll be mounting my Danforth on a bow sprit and non-tilting roller. Your roller approach will be better as it's a bit harder to "tip" the anchor up so it will "launch". I have a gadget with a pin that engages the chain to hold the anchor when stowed. i only use a short length of chain---maybe 3 or 4 feet. Haven't decided on whether to angle the whole works a bit. Depends on where my cleat will wind up. Plan is next to the tabernacle as close as I can get it, but clearing all of the turning blocks for the running rigging.

[Pete McCrary]

Now I'm getting ready to wire on the sheer strakes. Alan alerted me to a problem noticed with some other builders. It appears that after unfolding the hull and installing Blks 1 & 2 and the module, the shape of the hull (at the sheer line) between Blks 2 and 3 is slightly narrower than the design dimension. I think that should be expected considering the distance between Blk 2 and Blk 3.

Unless corrected, this leads to the hanging knees leaning inboard a bit so that the roof line and companionway hatch won't line up with the design positions and for the carln knotches in Blks 1 & 2. Alan recommended "some temporary props put in place across the inside of the hull until the sheer strakes are installed." He gave the inside beam design dimensions (at the sheer line) as 67-1/8 at the first hanging knee and 73-7/16 at the second knee.

So I cut the beam props to the specified lengths and inserted them at the knee positions. For the aft knee I needed to stretch the sides out about 2.5" and the forward knee almost 2". But the side strakes (at the sheer) were no longer fair. There were kinks where the props pushed out the sides. The next two photos show a fair batten clamped to the outside. Notice the kinks and "air-gaps."

Thinking that a thick stringer on the inside would force the sheer line to be closer to "fair" -- I cut two stringers (3/4 x 1 x 80) -- the last 10" at each end tapered down to 1/4". I copied the designers stringer cross section of 3/4" x 1".

The following photos shows the "air-gaps" almost gone. I plan to move the temporary props to push on the stringer in at least two places -- cutting the lengths to what will make the ID at the sheer match the design dimensions. By doing that (and not pushing out on the strakes' edges -- I think the strakes will be perfectly fair. Hopefully!

I'll place the stringers just about 2-1/2" below the sheer edge so that I'll have room to wire on the sheer strake, fillet, and glass tape the intersection, stem to stern. The stringer will first be clamped in place and then "fixed" with two drywall screws spaced about 10" apart at the center (all clamps removed). I think I'll put packaging tape on its underside so that any spilled epoxy won't bind it permanently to the side strake. I'll remove the stringers after the filleting and glassing cure for a couple of days.

Any predictions on what the "spring-back" will be after the stringers and props are removed? My guess is maybe about 1/4" each side MAX. Should I anticipate the "spring-back" and push the setup dimensions an extra 1/2"? Does anyone have any actual experience with this problem. Am I missing anything? Comments and suggestions would be appreciated.

[Chick Ludwig]

On Summer Breeze, CS-17 Mk-3, I didn't notice much problem when I wired in my strakes. I did use sheer stringers along the top of the strakes, and temporarily put spreaders across where the hanging knees go before glass taping the strakes in place. BUT, ehen I finally set my top in place, it was narrower than the strakes in the way of bulkheads #1 and #2. The foredeck didn't fit right either. (Look at first picture @ http://messing-about.com/forums/topic/9480-core-sound-17-mk-3-summer-breeze/page-8)

 

Then when I finally installed my rubrails, I did notice some unfairness in the way of the bulkheads. If you follow my build, you'll see how i went about the whole deal.

 

I never checked the dimensions across the top of the bulkheads and didn't use the hanging Knees. I think that if I'd been more careful to measure EVERYTHING, used props to force the side out a bit, and been sure that the bulkheads were exactly where they should have been (The marked lines on the hull sides and strakes didn't match.), all would have been well.

 

I'm amazed at the accuracy of the kit, and well planned manner that it all goes together. GREAT JOB to the Master and his young Padawan---actually Alan has earned his "Mastershipness" by now.

[Jknight611]

Pete cudos to you for leaving the sheer strakes off till.... I didn't have that self discipline and ended up with orangutan arms! I not only couldn't resist installing the sheer strakes, I installed the hanging knees! And I have the scratches on my back proving it was another bad idea!

I know you will love the way the boat sails, I am just getting comfortable with a cat ketch rig after many years with cutter rigged sloops.

Looking good!

[Steve W]

"He gave the inside beam design dimensions (at the sheer line) as 67-1/8 at the first hanging knee and 73-7/16 at the second knee." Is there any reason that a stringer clamped to the top outside of the hull panels securely couldn't just be pushed apart until this dimension is left? 

 

I'm at this point trying to get the module to lay flat in the bottom. I glassed the keel first, and I'm having a hard time getting it all to fit together real well. The module is sitting a bit proud and I've been taking shavings here and there to get it to lay on the bottom perfectly, but I've only got it close. (as much as 3/16 gap in some places). Up front, the mast bulkhead is narrow compared to where the panels want to go, while the second bulkhead was tough to get into place.

 

I really want to get his close before it's permanent.