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Pete McCrary

Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

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Regarding placement of the mast retaing bolt.  I'm not sure, but I think both Jay and Chick have sliding hatch covers for their forward cabin hatches.  That allows the hatch opening to be much closer to the tabernacle and easier for the skipper to reach the bolt-end sticking out into the anchor well while holding the mast upright with one hand.  I tried that (in the shop during construction) from the hatch opening further aft (I.e., with a forward edge at Blk #2) -- it was possible, but not easy.  Also, with a bulkhead-mounted bolt two slots need to be cut into the mast -- a bit harder than one thru the wooded bulkhead.  However, that said, if I had the hatch up close to the tabernacle, I would probably go for the bolt on the bulkhead.

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Q:. Where to stow the Boat Hook?  A:. Within easy reach from the cockpit.

 

Here's what I did:

image.thumb.jpeg.b8e13ca3fbcf811036ebb2f25e506489.jpeg

 

The cutout is just over a "half-circle."  With a little flexibility [in the wood]] and a little trimming with a file -- the plastic & rubber ends of the Boat Hook "snap" nicely in place.  Secure but easily removed.

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I'd say it's pretty much out of the way and easily accessible.  Don't have to open a hatch or go below.  However, easily pinched in a parking lot.  But it's not "high value" like a cell phone or GPS device.

image.thumb.jpeg.0ec971a6db0e5733bf734407149c9be2.jpeg

 

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Solution for car park thieves - what you can't chain and lock goes below or in lockers in transit and is mounted before launch. At least that is my approach.

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I wouldn't worry about boat hook thieves. Outboards, inflatables, trolling motors, etc. are the things that tend to get stolen. I know someone that lost his Laser sail once, though I suspect the thief was a Laser skipper, needing a sail and took an opportunity, when it came up. It was nice sail, though worn out according to the owner, so the thief got what he deserved. Lastly, thieves steal what looks good and appears easy to get, so some well placed paint drips, ugly handles, etc. can go a long way to making things less appetising. The sight of a padlock can also deter the casual thief. It doesn't have to be locked, just visible, with the side the bale slides into hidden somehow.

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Here are some photos of Chessie on the water taken by a fellow boater from his slip at the Sweenen Point Marina on the Potomac's Mattawaoman Creek.  Persons aboard are myself, my son Jim and daughter-in-law, Patricia and sailing friend John Zohlen.  One really needs a chase boat and or telephoto lense to get good photos of boats on the water.  Anyway, here are the pixs:

 

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Maybe I'll be able to get some more at the MASCF.  I'm presently planning to arrive (with Chessie) on Thursday afternoon, and hopefully, participate in the sail-over to Wye Island.

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Pete, the pics look great. I'll have my SP there and if I can keep up, I'll take pictures. I've volunteered to put the presentation for the awards Saturday night together so I'll have good camera equipment. As soon as Pete Lesher put out the email for the "Wye Island Gunkhole" I'll see you get a copy. I am pretty sure there is a short skippers meeting and a small collection of funds (5 or 6 bucks to camp) and then its off to Wye Island. I believe the meeting may be at noon or 1 pm. You would want to have your boat rigged by then. It's great fun sailing out together. I am going down on Wednesday. If I get an early start I will get the boat in the water Wednesday, but if not launch Thursday morning. Excited you are coming. See you soon.

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Great news. Will you be sailing out to Wye Island? Are you camping at the museum?

 

Look for me on WildCat, my Sea Pearl. Next year I'll be bringing "Jazz Hands". I've never sailed on a Core Sound anything, but have sailed with them many times. I'll be looking over the rigs more than usual this time.

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I managed to get a few more things done for Chessie:

 

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Here's a little Tach & Hour meter.  The pickup is just a small wire wrapped (~ 4 turns) turns around the spark plug cable.  You can see the other end at lower left on the meter.  No external power required.  I'm told that there's an internal battery (power for low-drain liquid crystal display) with > 10 yr life.

 

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A small Ritchie hand-held compass mounted on a bracket just held on the mizzen partner by friction.

 

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Proof of concept cabin shelf dry-fitted on the port side.  I had a similar shelf on Tattoo -- and it was very convenient and didn't get in the way.  My 3-day cruise at the MASCF will be the real test.

 

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Chessie is now sporting her "badges."  They still need several more coats of clearcoat.

 

Hope to see some of you at the MASCF.  I hope to arrive there Thursday afternoon.  Probably won't do the Wye Island trip this year.  Maybe next year.

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A reboarding ladder.  Here's my preliminary design sketch based on photos provided by Chick last year.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.fde5c2d649aa9a276a5196c1bd03ba4e.jpeg

 

The next step will be to make [to scale] a "stick figure" of an "overboard sailor" and try to visualize her grabbing the transom lip and placing her (right ?) foot on the bottom step (~ 16" below the DWL) -- and then leveraging herself up (high enough) to get her (other) foot on the top step (~ at the DWL) -- and her torso over the transom onto the aft deck (~ 25" above the DWL).

 

I'm trying to keep the stowed system entirely below the top edge of the transom -- and deployable by a tired sailor in the water.  And that would include the "gin-pole" (stowed inside the coaming) described below.

 

I'm thinking I need something like a removable "gin-pole" that could be something like a 1.25" wooden dowel sticking up thru a hole in the top of the cockpit coaming and held upright with a "step" at its base.  The gin-pole could be stowed inside the coaming and deployed by the overboard sailor by reaching it thru the aft opening of the coaming.  Instead of [it] standing straight up (providing only vertical leverage), the gin-pole could be made to also provide some horizontal leverage by arranging the hole (in the coaming) to be on the cockpit-side of the coaming so that it would stick out at about a 45 degree angle and a little aft.  Rigging the gin-pole into its opening [and step] could be a problem and something the sailor should practice.  Maybe tomorrow I'll try to sketch the concept on paper.

 

Critical comments and suggestions would be appreciated.

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In thinking about reboarding in other than flat calm conditions, I came up with these observations.

  • The inboard ends of the frame are secured by a 1/4" rod thru 1" x 3/4" wood legs. The jerking loads as the stern heaves up & down could be large. I think that there should be metal straps on the sides so that the forces are not all taken by the strip of end grain against the rod.
  • The bottom step could be better secured. Maybe make the step tread 7" with the sides of the frame notched in and epoxyed.
  • Having the frame buoyant may be a problem for the swimmer, I think. lots of metal braces, metal frame, or weighted bottom step could help.
  • An easy to grab line (maybe 3/8" or 1/2" dia) with a series of knots fastened to the top of the transom would be handy to hold on to to scramble up the steps before setting up the gin pole.
  • Instead of hinges, you might think of pivoting both the frame and the top step on the rod with 2 or 4 plates off the transom, perhaps pieces of angle 'iron'

Despite all the pickiness above, I think the ladder is maybe the best idea I have seen for the problem.

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I have a "store bought" ladder on Summer Breeze that is easy to swing down when needed. My big mistake was mounting it too high on the transom (Too much sweet tea musta dulled my poor, feeble old brain on installation day.) As is, it catches the mizzen sheet, but mounted down low where it is SUPPOSED to be, it would be fine.

 

My computer died and lost all of my pictures, so I can't post any. I'll see if I can find one on my building thread.

Here is one. If the ladder was mounted as low as it would go, it would be fine. it would be easier to use, too. It's on my list to fix. Gonna make a mess where I remove it and the wood blocks at the mounting points!

image.png.4cedb4327a640d87243d6849729d2545.png

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Thanks, Alex, for the comments -- all of which, in one form or another, will be incorporated into the final version.  However, as a lover of wood, I'll probably stick mostly to wood and fiberglass, limiting the metal parts to the hinge and SS rod.  I will strengthen the rod-hinge assembly with more robust framing, including epoxy filled over-size holes later drilled for the SS rod.  I'm also thinking of some scuba diving weights into the bottom half of the bottom step.  Of course, all outside edges will be rounded off with [as large of] radii as possible to soften human bumps and mizzen sheet entanglements.

 

Note that the inside surface of the transom is already reinforced with 3/4" yellow pine blocking from the chine to the side of the aft locker.

 

Hete's a sketch of my concept for the "deployable" Gin-Pole.  I think it's a feasible concept that would greatly air reboarding.  At the top-right I've shown a plan view illustrating how I would tilt the pole a bit aft.  However, I need to better understand the ergonomics before final details are settled.  Maybe a person would get more useful purchase with the pole tilted forward?  I have a hand-grip above my bathtub just above the tub's top edge.  It's almost useless because at that level (it's too hard to push-up) -- however, if it was higher (i.e., at arms length), I'd have much better leverage to pull-up my entire weight.

 

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Skip, I think you are right to lower your ladder.  You'll get an easier to mount bottom step and less entanglement of the mizzen sheet.  But I have to thank you for the pix you posted last year.  I couldn't have conceived this design without the ideas that it provides.

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Chick's picture of the stern of his boat gave me an idea. (Danger Will Robinson!) You could drop the tongue of the trailer to raise the stern and mock up something the level of the tread and platform on the floor behind the boat and try to climb aboard. Maybe a grab handle on the afterdeck could be reached from the step (after pulling up on the knotted line) and avoid setting up the Gin Pole.

I think having you, your wife, & grandkids trying it out will point out stuff we haven't even considered.

Graham's answer brings up another idea- a boomkin like Carlita's would be a good handhold to climb up.

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Graham, actually, I hadn't thought of that. That's why you are the Master! I'll give that some thought. I may need braces fro near the top of the "poles" down forward to the top of the coaming to resist the bending force when the sail/sprit is forward when on a run. Doggone---I LIKE the idea. Get's the sheet away from Mr. Zuki, too!

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Pete, I considered building a ladder but in the end decided on one similar to the one Chick has used, but mounted lower than his. It seems to work nicely and being stainless steel it is a lot stronger than anything I could reasonably build without ending up with something large and chunky.

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I've actually done what Alex suggested when finding the travel limits for the rudder-tiller assembly.  However, without building a mockup, I've made a "stick-figure" of a six foot sailor [to scale 4:1] and positioned it on the 4:1 drawing as if reboarding.  Here's the sketch:

 

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It's my opinion that reboarding for me (age 84) will be a challenge.  Perhaps the toughest part would be placing one foot on the bottom step while holding onto the transom lip.  I envision being in the water in a near veriticle position and holding onto the top of the transom with both hands.  Then trying to place one foot on the bottom step.  Could I raise myself up with my arms high enough so that I could flex my leg (again high enough) to place one foot on the bottom step?  Maybe.  Once a foot is in position on the step, the next problem will be to stand upright.  At my age it is very difficult to stand upright (sometimes I just can't do it) from a squatting position using BOTH legs.  However, if I can have a "hand grip," that little extra leverage will get me up.  The buoyancy of the water will help some -- but what if "Chessie" is floating high?

 

The real-life dynamics is really hard to predict.  I'll just have to build the prototype and try it on-the-water.  But as a precaution, I think I'll add a back-up folding third step (shown on the drawing in green) that will be about 4" lower than the present bottom step and probably make reboarding much less problematic.

 

What do you think?  Has any reader had actual experience with a ladder with this approximate configuration?  Am I making too much of this "potential" problem?

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