Designer Posted April 24, 2017 Report Share Posted April 24, 2017 Pete, You do not need a temporary crutch while you remove the mast crutch prior to stepping the mizzen. You have to have to carry a type 4 throw cushion, I put mine on the aft end of the sliding hatch. I just lift both of my masts off of he crutch and lower them onto the cushion. I have to slide the mizzen further forward so that it does not tip backwards. I can now remove the mast crutch and stow it and then step the mizzen. I put a crutch an the side of my tabernacle to carry the head of the mizzen mast. I carry the mizzen with the head forward. This requires a smaller crutch and sets the mast in the right direction for raising the mizzen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Stewart Posted April 24, 2017 Report Share Posted April 24, 2017 pic of that in the Carlita album Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted April 28, 2017 Report Share Posted April 28, 2017 On a larger boat than typical here I use a boat trailer winch to raise the main in a hefty tabernacle. An eye bolt at the base of the mast, just above the locking pin location is where the winch line (strap actually) clips on. The winch is fitted with a "U" shaped bracket that slides over the back of the centerboard case. I use to crank the mast up and remove the winch, stowing it in a locker, but now just leave it in place. It was causing line hangups, so I replaced the crank with a small "destroyer" wheel and it's much better in this regard. The hoisting routine is simple, place the mast in the tabernacle, inserting the pivot pin, grab, pull out, then feed the strap through a turning block (flat trailer roller) and attach the hook in the eye and start cranking. This places huge loads on the tabernacle, so I usually hoist the mast up on my shoulder, walking it up to the winch, then take up the slack. The tabernacle is a "U" shaped aluminum channel I welded up, faced with some 1/8" oak, for looks. It's stout, but at the first part of the hoist, a noticeable bend can be seen in the tabernacle uprights. I used 3/16" 6160, but probably should have used 1/4". In hindsight, I should have had Tom bend up some 1/4" plate for the tabernacle, increased the cantilever height from 36" to 48" (eye bolt to pivot pin) and used cable with a snatch block, but it still works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted May 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 Got all the rigging done including the anchor setup. But not in time for the SWS Spring Cruise. Good thing I bent the sails while in my driveway. Needed to widen the downhaul hooks -- needed a small blow torch and some leverage to open them up. Also discovered (I should've known) that the sail tracks should have been carefully trimmed (with a file or Emory paper) and lubed with silicone. Same for the sail slugs. Made a list of adjustments needed. That'll be next before her first sail. Here are a few pixs: I'll probably trail the rudder like this. I'll rig a safety line up to the [lowerer] mast. Here's the anchor in its "on-the-water" position. Notice the accidental lineup of the fluke with the graceful extension of the sheer line. The roller and anchor seem to blend in nicely with the boat. I was concerned that it would be an ugly appendage. This is how the anchor is secured while sailing. But for road transport, my plan is to carry it in the anchor well. Here she is, sails bent on, in her driveway. I'm trying to raise a crew of one experienced sailor for her first trial sail. Probably have to do it solo. Results will be posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken_Potts Posted May 1, 2017 Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 Chessie looks great! An inattentive tailgater might not see that rudder though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted May 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 'Hadn't thought of that. Something to consider. But if the tailgater is that close, the likelihood of major additional damage is very high. In other words, the probability of an actual collision occurring, where there's only damage to the rudder, is very low. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken_Potts Posted May 2, 2017 Report Share Posted May 2, 2017 I was thinking more along the lines of someone pulling up extra close behind you at an intersection and stopping short of the brightly-colored transom but not quite missing the rudder that they didn't quite see because it was pointed straight at them. One way to avoid the problem would be a bright yellow rudder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted May 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2017 Or a bright Sunbrella cover (uv protection) for the rudder -- supported (overhead) to one of the masts overhanging the transom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W Posted May 2, 2017 Report Share Posted May 2, 2017 I'm kind of paranoid. The day after I met you at the MASCF I got my Sea Pearl rear-ended by an inattentive driver texting. Here is a pic. Nothing I could do about it. A Sea Pearl is build like a brick $%)t-house. It bounce up on the ladies hood and smashed her windshield. My trailer was toast but the boat survived with little damage. But a plywood boat would be kindling. My plan is to mound a third brake light at eye level and take the rudder off. One thing I have learned. running with the 4 way flashers keeps people from tailgating. Check local regulations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted May 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2017 And I've seen on this forum a brake light that "blinks" loudly as opposed to simply going brighter. Motorcyclests love them. Any auto parts store. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meester Posted May 3, 2017 Report Share Posted May 3, 2017 Pete, I like the idea of the cover - rudder sling thing. Red ribbon on the end, and tiller to port so that your tailgater sees the side of the rudder instead of seeing it end on. But what to call this thing? Dock strap? Rudder udder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken_Potts Posted May 3, 2017 Report Share Posted May 3, 2017 Just make sure there's a ribbon on it that says "Remove before flight". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted May 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 Maybe this is how I'll road-transport the rudder assembly: Maybe also tie a yellow ribbon on the end of it. Today I rolled the [lowered] masts sail-tracks up, and took a file and some emory cloth to the sail tracks to rid them of any "burrs" or other dinks that could impead easy sliding of the sail slides. Especially where sections [of sailtrack] meet. Also some Teflon lubricant. Then turned them over with sail-tracks down. Next I'll lub the sail slides. Solo raising/lowering of the mainmast is getting easier. Here are photos showing just how high the mainmast must be raised in order to open/close the forward hatch. I'll make a permanent mark on the mizzen to index that position. It's 18.5 inches above the mizzen where the OD change from 3" to 2.5". After the initial launching (w/o sails) and with only about 90 minutes on the water -- I found more than a gallon of water in the bilges around the ballast tank. My initial concern was that there was a leak. Now, I'm not so sure. It could have been rainwater intrusion over several weeks outside and not yet made completely rain proof. Before the 90 minute voyage the cabin sole was dry -- but I didn't check the bilges aft of Blk 3! There could have significant water in those places that I didn't know about. And a gallon in just 90 minutes is a very big leak. So, now I'm investigating. At this point she's completely dry inside -- and as rainproof as I can make her. Bedded hardware including the Lexan windows in the dropbaards. There are only little 1/16" holes in the sheerstrake indicating the locations of the not-yet installed portholes. And they are partially filled with 4 coats of primer & paint. She's closed up tight with a rain gauge on the garage. After a few inches of expected rain I'll make an inspection of the entire interior. If there is any intrusion -- I should be able to locate it. Next I'll fill the ballast tank with a garden hose and see what happens. Hopefully, I'll learn that rainwater was already in the bilges when we made the 90 minute cruise. If that test passes, then I'll make another cruise on tHe water. This time sailing. I'll report the results of thes observations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmosSwogger Posted May 13, 2017 Report Share Posted May 13, 2017 With your engineering skills I'm confident you'll figure out a fix. I'm interested to hear the results of your tests. What did you use to cover over the access holes for the dry storage area aft of the ballast tank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted May 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2017 6 hours ago, AmosSwogger said: ... access holes for the dry storage area aft of the ballast tank? By that do you mean the space under the footwell sole? If so, then it's covered with a deck plate just like the one over the ballast tank. The cockpit lockers (port & starboard) have hatch covers where the framing has gutters all around. I expected those lockers to be bone-dry -- but they have significant water intrusion after rain. I haven't been able to locate the leak points and I'm beginning to suspect the hatch covers. But the gutters look like they would channel all runoff into the footwell. I didn't install any gaskets -- thinking that the gutters would do the job. The deck plates in the footwell sole are keeping rainwater out. They are closed by a hand-turned knob which compresses a rubber gasket. The locker aft of the footwell leaks a lot of rainwater. Here also I didn't install a gasket. But I think I will have an easy fix for that. Presently rainwater flows in from the aft deck and down the inside-side of the hatch right into the bilge. I think I can channel that runoff to the bottom of the hatch frame and into the footwell. As mentioned before I had drilled 16 holes (1/16") in the sheerstrake [locating the four portholes]. After drying out the boat, I covered them with masking tape. And last Thursday we had at least 1.5" of rain -- and no water intrusion into the cabin. That problem seems to be solved. Speaking of portholes -- I've started their installation. Here are a few pixs: The layout provides a 1/8" spaceing all-around for bedding. A hole cutter (D = 2.75") at the corners made the job easy. I'll epoxy and waterproof the edges before before bedding the portholes. You can see my thumb holding it in place. The "spigot" will be trimmed flush before bedding. Hope to get all four installed this coming week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drew Posted May 14, 2017 Report Share Posted May 14, 2017 Peter, your portholes look so good. I have chosen to go for non-standard shapes so I am simply covering with 3/16 polycarbonate bedded on sealant and screwed in place. The vertical lines in between the ports are where I added a section because I had cut the cabin sides to the plan before I decided to extend the cabin length. No one will know when I am finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted May 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2017 Started last Saturday installing the portholes. Cutting, dry-fitting, shimming in 16 places because of the curved surfaces, and recruiting help took until this am (3 days). My Annie agreed to be the inside-the-boat-person. The first one took an hour. The next three about 75 minutes. Here's what the starboard side looks like: Sometimes my driveway boat activity is observed be our neighborhood Barred Owl: Wingspan ~ 5 feet. We call him (her ?) "Owl Jolson" . . "Chessie" is now on schedule for a sailing family outing Memorial Day weekend at the Maritime Museum in Solomons Island, Maryland. Then a grandson's confirmation in Norfolk. After that Annie & I and "Chessie" will be at the B & B yard and dock on Friday, June 2nd, for a checkup and sailing tips for her cat-ketch rig. Building her has been a pleasure and a challenge over a two year period. That was a year longer than I anticipated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drew Posted May 17, 2017 Report Share Posted May 17, 2017 The portholes really set off the uppers nicely Pete. Well done. The perseverance paid off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted May 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2017 "Chessie" is anxious to travel and wants her skipper to make her road-ready. She has her tires at 50 psi and her tow vehicle on standby in her stall: She'll just have to be patient. Tomorrow I load her with safety equipment try to make rain gutters for the aft locker's hatch. Thursday she'll be made road-ready for departure Friday am for Solomons Island and the Chesapeake CatBoat Association's annual Patuxant River Shootout (handycapped races) on Sunday. I hope that we (son Jim & I) beat them all. But they will probably assign a handicap factor that will set us back to reality. After this weekend sail we take Chessie to North Carolina for B & B to look her over and give me a few tips on sailing a "cat-ketch" rig. And especially lowering sails and furling them as if in an emergency. Hopefully we'll get a few good photos which will be shared on the forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drew Posted May 24, 2017 Report Share Posted May 24, 2017 Good luck Pete. Chessie is looking really great. I'm liking the sail covers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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