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Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .


Pete McCrary

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I had the date wrong for the paint shop appointment.  It's Feb 10, not the 3rd.  I'm kind'o glade because I can get several more things done first.  Like the drop boards:

Alan had these machine-cut for me.  Obviously from the same piece of marine veneered-plywood.  Notice how the grain pattern continues from the top board to the bottom board.  A beautiful pattern.  Noticing that, I decided to finish the boards "bright" rather than with primer and paint.

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The inside corner of the top board got clipped.  It has been repaired with a dab of glue.  Notice that there is a very small gap between the outside edges where the boards meet.  Maybe that will facilitate draining.  Should I consider slightly expanding the gap and inserting a wedge so that water won't be trapped in the lower corner?  The wedge would have an angle slightly more than the slope of Blk 3.

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Alan also had the boards machine-cut the rabbets and bezels for the elliptical windows.  And the screw-holes were machine-marked.  With the greatest care -- I couldn't of done the job so perfectly.

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Next will be the vertical framing to channel the drop boards.

 

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I'm assuming you are edge banding these, and if so you could take a slight skim off the to piece and shorten the lap a bit. Not sure if it's important. Did you order the deadlights from B & B as well? After watching Alan's video on Carlita I think when the time comes that might be a good option.

And while we are talking about that, in the video I noticed Graham had added hinges to all the bunk hatches. I had my concerns they would bounce out. Are you planning on hinging them? Looking great BTW.

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Steve: If by "edge banding" you mean gluing on a piece to cover the end-grain of the plywood -- no, that's not my plan.  Just a little extra epoxy.  For the present I've decided not to worry about water collecting in the corner of the rabbet.  I think the spacing is sufficient so that any water collecting in the rabbet will drain out one end or the other.  If I see some residue of moisture, than I'll consider some kind'o fix or another.

Yes, the deadlights were part of the drop-board kit.  And no, I'm not planning to hinge the bunk hatches.  On a road test we hit a road "hump" a little fast and jostled things around a bit.  Although there were no bunk cushions, every hatch cover remained in its place.

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"Chessie" is almost ready for the paint shop day-after-tomorrow.  Last night I glued on the inside spacer & drop board guides.  I'm not going to have a "retainer" for the sliding hatch.  The cockpit-side guides will serve that purpose by extending them up to the top of the slid rails.  If (when) the sliding hatch needs to be removed -- I'll just remove the (cockpit-side) guides.  They won't be glued in place, but rather bedded and [carriage] bolted to Blk 3.  Carriage bolts (instead of screws) are used for security because they can't be removed by a casual thief outside the cabin.  Of course, a serious thief could use the chain saw that he always has handy.

 

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Each guide will have a drain hole cut just at the aft end of the drain channels on the inboard side of the hatch rails.  Those holes are not yet showing in the photo.

 

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Notice the gap (~ 3/16") above the top drop board and the end grain on the sliding hatch.  Also notice the yellow pine cleat on top of the hatch.  The final cleat (will be mahogany) and modified with a rabbet (~ 1/2 + 3/16) 11/16" x 3/8" that will cover the end grain and provide a drip edge so tha no water will ingress.  The top of the drop boards are at the same height as the companionway coamings.  The rabbets in the rails are just oversized (~ a little < 1/16") so as to allow the hatch to be raised slightly -- allowing the drip edge to clear the drop board and coaming when moving the hatch forward.

 

Tomorrow and Thursday I will be fairing many improfections on the hull with an epoxy puddy compound.

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Here's a mast-heel plug to keep out critters and rain wether in the driveway or on the road.

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The kerf left after a 3" hole-saw cut needed just a little trimming for a perfect fit as shown below:

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The main and mizzen masts are stowed outside under the roof overhang along with the rub rails.  I hope to bed the rails (and the 3/4" half ovals) next week.

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"Chessie" went to the paint shop this afternoon for two coats of AWLGRIP 545 primer.  She'll return Wednesday, February 15, ready for masts installitations, fitting out, and final paint jobs (upon arrival of warm weather).  Here's what she looks like:

 

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The spot on the footwell sole for the mizzen step must be kept bare (i.e, w/o primer) so that it may be effectively epoxied in place after careful alliingment of the main and mizzen masts.

 

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Here she is on the city scale.  Total trailer & boat (sans all hatches and garage cover) = 1,360.  Axle only = 1,180.  Therefore tongue weight = 180.

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Now I have four days off.  Taxes, honey-do, vacuum entire shop, etc., etc., ...  Relax ??

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Curious:  Why did you decide to go to the spray shop for this batch of primer?  I thought your own paint job on topside, etc., had turned out pretty well.  Looks good from Wisconsin, anyway.  Conversely, why stop at primer, why not have the spray shop do finish coats, too, as long as you're there?

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Lots of reasons.  First, I really don't like the ordeal of applying 545.  It's really for professionals, which I'm not.  And (in Virgina this time of year) it requires a heated shop, which mine isn't.  Of several body shops I tried none (but this speciality shop) would have anything to do with anything other than insurance funded work.  My guy would reluctantly do the whole job (two coats of 545 primer plus two coats of paint (three colors) for a "time & materials" contract with an estimate of 2k to 4k or more $$!  His rate was a reasonable $70/hour.  I said suppose I have the boat in his shop ready for 545 application (sanded, taped, vacuumed, etc.) along with sufficient 545 for his application on an afternoon for the first primer coat and then the 2nd primer coat the next day -- thereby not requiring any sanding between coats.  And I'd do the over-painting myself in warmer weather.  He said he would do it for $70/man-hour.  The bottom (up to the sheer line) is already done -- he only has to do the sheer strake and above, hatch covers, cabin roof, foredeck, cockpit deck & coamings, and foot sole.  I'm guessing close to $1,000, not more than $1,500.  We'll see.  I'll let you all know.  I'm hopeful -- mainly because I like the guy.  And because when he and his crew saw "Chessie" they were very impressed and seemed enthusiastic to be a part of the effort.  She'll be ready Wednesday am and I'll report the results.

 

BTW, the 545 will be rolled & tipped, not sprayed.

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I come across this decision fairly often and I simply ask, how many boats will you paint in the next decade. The client gets the deer in the headlights look and I suggest a basic cost, for a full up spray setup. A good homeowner system will run $1,500 (minimum) and this is a 5 HP Harbor Freight compressor, cheap but pretty good guns, water/oil traps, etc. This can easily top $2K, but this also is the cost of a moderately priced professional job, so if you plan on a few builds and maybe touching up your other half's car too, consider a home built spray booth (can be a temporary arrangement) and modest equipment. You're not going to be able to do production work with this setup, but a dozen boats and/or cars isn't unreasonable, before the compressor takes a dump.

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Presently, I haven't the patience to create a near perfect "finish."  A solid "20-footer" is my goal.  I've had success with Interlux Topside single-part for what will go over the AWLGRIP 545.

 

Here's my design for the cleat at the aft end of the sliding hatch.  Hopefully, that drip edge should prevent any ingress of rainwater over the top of the drop boards.  Also shown is my arrangement for "companionway" security.  Of course, this won't prevent an intrusion while the cabin is occupied.

 

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I'll cut that from a left-over piece of mahogany.  The same scrap will be used for the hatch cleats and the breakwater for the forward hatch.  Those cleats and the drop-boards will be the only "bright work" on "Chessie."

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Pete,

 

Here are shots of my hatch and locking system. The first two show the drip groove in the top wash board. Third shows the drip groove under the hatch, sorry about the poor focus. Fourth shows the hasp and staple. Fifth shows the staple turned 90 degrees. Sixth, locked. Seventh shows the hatch wide open, the staple is far enough to the side that it is not in the way.

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Graham,...

Thanks for the photos.  I learned of "drip edges" from my father, but I had never heard of (or thought of) a "drip groove" on the top of a drop board.   I'll certainly do that.

 

Sometimes we just fail to see the obvious.  Remindes me of the inventor that made talking movies possible (sound track on the film's edge) .  His invention incorporated a flywheel into the projector's film-track to smooth out the shuttelling of the [film] frames.  The problem was unsolved for years -- until his invention.  His patten application was denied on the grounds that the solution was "obvious" and therefore not inventive !!  The U. S. Supreme Court upheld the ruling of the Patten Office.

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"Chessie" is back from the paint shop showing off (in her underwear) -- and impatient for her "fitting out."  After making her "rain-proof," I'm going to permanently install the mizzen partner and step making sure that the masts are parallel and in the same plane.  On Monday I'll tow her to the canvas shop where her cabin cushions will be fabricated.  And they will give me an estimate for a "dodger."  For their design guidance I've found on "Carlita's" build computer generated images of Graham's concept of a dodger for his CS17.3.

 

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She was admired by two curious locals, Lucy and Paige.

 

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The roses for my honey were half-price (at Costco) on the 15th.  I'm getting cheap and overconfident in my old age.

 

BTW, the two coats of AWLGRIP 545 only cost $576.  I supplied the primer, they supplied the labor, rollers, and making supplies.  I couldn't help myself -- I said "I that all?!"  I was expecting somewhere between $1,000 and $1,500.  But I know he was doing me a favor.

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Wow....looking good.

 

Questions:

  1. What kind of paint did you use in the interior?
  2. Did you decide what you are going to do for cabin port lights? I like the oval dead-lights Graham has on Carlita. I don't think I need opening ones.
  3. Cab you see around the hull with standard mirrors?
  4. Is the grey below the waterline a barrier coat or the finished paint?
  5. Does that yellow dotted boundary on the driveway have any significance or is that your side after bringing the flowers late?
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1. It's two coats of white AlwGrip 545.  I'll probably just leave it at that.

2. At the start I bought 4 opening ports from B & B.  Expensive, but good ventilation.

3. Just barely.  But I have all my side mirrors set up to see the "blind spot" on the aft quarter.  I'm more concerned about what's in the adjacent lanes.

4. It's the barrier coat as well as the finish (AWLG 545).  "Chessie" won't routinely be in any slip or at a mooring.  She'll mostly live in my driveway.

5. Now that I'm her morning hair dresser, I can do no wrong.  But as she recovers (broken wrist) and won't need help doing hair, I better be more attentive.  With a long driveway to a back-yard garage, the yellow lines help a great deal.

 

Today laid on the 2nd varnish coat for the two sprit booms.

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Alan sent me this CAD drawing of Graham's concept for a dodger.  On Monday I'm trailing "Chessie" to the canvas shop and negotiate a deal for bunk cushions and possibly a dodger.

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Here's the mizzen partner being permanently epoxied in place.  Tomorrow I'll locate the mizzen step.

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I've copied Graham's security system.

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My caps for the drop board channels also serve as the retainer for the sliding hatch.  They have to be removed in order to remove the hatch.  They'll be bedded (not glued) in place.  The permanent fasteners will be bronze 3/16" carriage bolts so that they can't be removed without having access to the cabin.  Small measure of security.

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She's now "rain-proof" and ready for the road trip to the canvas shop.

 

I'm very close to rigging the mast and getting ready for the maiden voyage.  Hope it won't be like the Titanic.

 

On a sad note -- my neighbor, friend, and boatbuilding / sailing buddy had a heart attack last Thursday.  His second (requiring) open-heart surgery.  He's ok and will be home tomorrow.  He'll have a couple of months recovery before he can again help me in the shop.  But he's planning on sailing with me this summer.  He and his wife are avid dancers.  The meds told him that he got thru this ok because he was in such good shape from dancing.  He's my age and I've told him that his dancing will extend his life -- like I think boatbuilding.and sailing will co for me.

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At Alan's suggestion I set up two faux masts and fixed the mizzen step's position so that both masts were in the longitudinal vertical plane and parallel to each other.  The mainmast rake was fixed BR the CAD parts -- the mizzen's step was adjusted to match.  Here's the setup:

 

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One side,  Then the other.

 

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Mizzen & mainmast made plum with nose jack.  OK, compared to neighbors' house sides

 

When all's right -- the step is permanently located.

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Tomorrow,...  Final prep for trailering her to the canvas shop on Monday.

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