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Core Sound 20 Mark III #3 "Skeena"


Steve W

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I'm not sure why I can't post pictures from Google anymore, so for now you all will just have to take my word on my progress. I thought I was about done with all the printed manual stuff, but just before I was to glue the bunk tops down I noticed some detail I missed to glass the forward bunk locker bottoms. So last night I did and got up at 4 am to trim the fabric tight to the stringers. Nice! Maybe this weekend the bunk tops will go on.

 

Then it's time to start going vertical. I think there may be some advantages to building the seat hatches and getting all that installed first so I'm not leaning over the coamings. Thoughts?

 

I am determined to stick with a trench type opening. I'm going to figure something out one way or another.

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Steve, I'm sure (?) that you'll be glassing and sealing all of the surfaces and edges of your cockpit module BEFORE installing it. It is MUCH easier when out of the boat where you can turn it on edge, upside down, or whichever way you can reach everything. Then just having to glass tape it into the hull won't be so bad.

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Doggone if I know. i just us pictures from my digital camera that I download into a folder. Then I transfer them to my post. Anything beyond that is way over my head. I'm sur one of the other guys will help. Or you can always ask Frank at:  http://messing-about.com/forums/forum/12-website-q-a/

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  • 2 weeks later...

I haven't posted here for awhile but I've been busy. Progress has been good and steady. I'm currently in Las Vegas for work, but it was my goal to have the bunk tops, forward storage and anchor lockers down before I left, and while I forgot to take final pictures, here is some along the way:

 

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It seems like you all have dive weights, but all I got was bricks and dumbbells:

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I had just a small gap in the forward part of the floorboards. I made a little shim. I'm painting the interior so no worries.

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Such a big hatch would be easy to lose stuff in. I added a bit of white pigment to the final two finish coats of epoxy to brighten things up. I took this picture just before gluing the top down.

post-853-0-64066300-1484625875_thumb.jpg

 

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Chick....added some non skid to my 11N. It was a paint additive. What did you do?

 

Also, I'm curious as to when to attach the battens to the shear strake. Pete attached the strake first. And then cut notches in his knees, I assume with a multi-tool and then glued on the battens. Is this the way to go about this?

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Steve,...

I think my sequence was to attach the knees & Blk 3 first, then the sheer strakes. I didn't even know about the need for the inwale battens (at the corner of the knees at the cabin roof line) until after I had attached the strakes. If I had, I would've cut the notches first. It was a "bear" of a job to do it afterwards including notches in Blks 2 & 3. Probably makes sense to notch them all first. Maybe also attach the roof-line inwales first? A view of "Carlita" pixs would probably show how Graham did it.

At Graham's suggestion I made a pair of 3/4" x 1.5" x 21 foot battens attached to the outside of the side planks a little "proud" of the plank edge that provided a "lip" against which the sheer strakes could rest. Those battens doubled as future rub rails. They made the job of attaching the sheer strakes much easier.

You'll need inwales along the sheer line with to top edges flush with the top edge of the side planks. They're not needed for structural strength -- but mainly as a backup for screwing on the RubRail. No notches needed -- the inwales are just installed between the stem, bulkheads, knees and transom. Note, however, that these shouldn't be installed until after the sheer strakes are epoxied in place. Since they are in pieces (not a stem-to-stern batten) they would disturbe the fairness of the sheer if installed before the sheer line is made immobile by the attached sheer strake.

Although you wouldn't install the sheer-line inwales until after attaching the sheer strakes, it would be much easier to measure and cut (and dry-fir) each section before putting on the sheer strakes. The inwale thickness was 1/2" x 1" (not sure of the width?). The half-inch thickness provided a 3/4 inch "bite" for the RubRail screws while remaining flexable enough to fit the inside curve of the sheer line. I'm going with memory, so it would be prudent to verify my cited dimensions.

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I set the side strakes on Saturday. What a mental lift. I spend a half an hour sitting aboard day-dreaming!

 

Anyway.....a quick question ......Does the cockpit floor get glassed? It seems like it should.

 

Fwiw, I have not glassed the cockpit floor on my 17 and don't plan to.   Assuming you mean glass cloth.  I certainly epoxied it.  I did not use cloth on my previous boat and never had an issue with wear and tear.  I am, as Chick noted, using non-skid.  So, it will be paint over epoxy. 

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Steve, "Chick....added some non skid to my 11N. It was a paint additive. What did you do?" I have done it by sprinkling it onto wet paint, and painting over. I've also done it as a paint additive. I've also done it with the additive using a paint roller. The additive comes from Lowe's. Best is spraying it (with a "primer" gun---big nozzle). Seems like careful application is the key. Getting it even is what's tough. Either way gives good---or bad results. I'm kinda wishy-washy 'cause I don't remember what I used on Summer Breeze.

 

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I've found sprinkling it on wet paint gives the best results and more even coverage. All paint stores sell particulates, for use in textured paint. Some of the manufacture have different grades (particulate size), so some experimentation might be necessary to get the look and feel you want. 

   The better way is to tape off the waterways and around stuff you don't want texture and apply a uniform thickness of straight goo. Once it's applied wait until it's near the "gel" stage and run a roller through it, which will pickup and "tuff up" the epoxy, but because it's about to kick off, doesn't have time to lay back down and self level, so you end up with texture literally cast into the cured goo. You can kiss the surface with sandpaper to knock down and overly aggressive texture if you want, then prep for paint. The things I like about this process is you have raised texture areas, between the waterways, so they actually act as waterways and you can be really consistent about the type and amount of texture you get, plus it can't fall out like some particulates do with foot traffic.81.jpg

The deck here shows this technique.85.jpg

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"... apply a uniform thickness of straight goo. Once it's applied wait until it's near the "gel" stage and run a roller through it, which will pickup and "tuff up" the epoxy, but because it's about to kick off, doesn't have time to lay back down and self level, so you end up with texture literally cast into the cured goo."

I've done this with gel coat back in my "polyester boat building days". I thickened the gelcoat with Cabosil. It did work just like PAR said, except i didn't have to wait for it to "kick off". I wonder if the cabosil would work this way with epoxy so you don't have to guess at the right time to run the roller through it?

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As we discussed at your place last summer, I've done it both ways. I now slightly thicken the goo, most times, though you usually need to use a textured roller to get consistent texture. The advantage is you don't have to wait. The disadvantage is the texture can be clumpy or bubbly looking. By waiting and rolling out straight goo, the texture seems to be pointier and tighter, without the clumpy, bubbliness of thickened stuff. KiwiGrip seems to do this too, if you look at the application images.

kiwigrip_color_textures.jpg

KiwiGrip image.

   Okay, it's textured, but I don't much like to look.

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I'm looking over the plans and for the life of me I can't find a dimension for the cabin cross beams. I'm guessing they are 3/4 x 3/4 or less because I think it would be hard to bend anything thicker to that radius. I'm heading over to a friends to cut all the cabin beams from stock as my shop has a boat in it making it tough to run long stock through my table saw.

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Steve,...

"Chessie's" cabin beams were cut from 3/4" sock yellow pine and not bent.  Alan gave me dimensions between the sheers at each bulkhead and cabin knee.  I braced (forced) these dimensions with temporary adjustable beams until I could fits the cross-members.

I made a rectangular frame that constituted the longitudinal .75" x 1.5" beams and cross-members at each bulkhead and cabin knee.  I stretched a batten over each space in order to mark the profile (arch) appropriate for each station.  They are close, but not identical.  Note that the roof surface is slightly conical and not cylindrical.  I made the mistake of assuming each had the same radius -- and later had to add shims to two or three [of them] in order to get the right profile.  It all worked out very nicely.

image.jpeg

I made the framework on the bench to assure that the edges were parallel and cross beams perpendicular to the side rails.  The 1 x 3s are the cross beams before cutting the arching profiles.

image.jpegimage.jpeg

Notice the shims that I had to add to the cabin knees because the elevation on the port side didn't always line up with the stbd side elevation.  Close, but not perfect.  However, considering the ~ 6' beam and possible slight errors in the keel, chine, and sheer joints -- I considered the line up remarkably close.

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Pete, I am sure glad you built before me and are so willing to help. I went back and looked at your build pictures and now I understand your method. The directions on the plans say "Leave the cross beams solid until fore and aft beams at each intersection and let them into the cross beams and knees notching the cross beams as needed." which sounds quite different. I like what you did. I am going to keep studying a bit. I just went to my friends and ripped all the longitudinal beams. I can rip anything shorter than 8' in my shop.

Incidentally my friend (also Pete) is building a cedar strip paddle board. I'll take pictures. Very neat design and execution. I told him I'd help glass it if he helped me. Good trade I'd say!

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