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Core Sound 20 Mark III #3 "Skeena"


Steve W

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Steve,...

On "Chessie" I cut only two longitudinal beams, one for Port and the other starboard.  They ran from the forward side of Blk 3 all the way forward thru the knotches in Blk 1 right up against the sheer strake (needs a sharp bevel there).  With those on the bench, I then inserted the rough-cut [as to the arches] cross beans at Blk 2 and the fwd and aft knees.  So it was a fram open at each end and cross beams (exactly 23" lengths) at Blks 1 & 2 and fwd & aft kneel.  I made all the other pieces [on the boat] fit that exact rectangle.  That took quite a bit of trimming and adding of shims.  Some of the knee ends needed to be added to and some subtracted from.  But in the end the companionway-hatch openings were true rectangles.  Once all was right and dry-fitted, I marked the arches on the cross-beams and removed them -- and cut the arches for final dry assembly.

Note that there were cleats on Blk 3 already beveled to the roof line.  That also provided a "corner" into which the longitudinal beams could be set (butting up against the aft side of Blk 3).  After all was in place (about as good as I could get it) I permanently epoxied everything.  All the roof support beams (cross & length-wise) still needed adjustment (shimms and trimming) so that it would be truly conical so that the big roof plywood piece would fit nicely everywhere.

Edited by Pete McCrary
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Over the weekend I read and read all the ways to but the seat hatches together. I was chicken to do it the way Alan shows in his video with a glue gun. I couldn't figure a good way to clamp things so tonight I just went for it Alan style. All I can say is that in twenty minutes I had the seats tops and frames glued together. Straight as an arrow. No clamps. Amazing.

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I have the seat locker assemblies glued up and I've decided to glass them on top. The thought is to radius the top edge with a router and then drape glass cloth over the edge. In Alan's CS15 video, he shows the finished product, which looks sweet. When you do this, what happens in the corners?  Wrap it like a present? Drape it and pleat the corners, trimming when green? Cut and overlap a bit?

 

And finally, what weight cloth would you use? I might have some 4 ounce around.

 

 

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So I finally got the courage to glue down the cockpit floor. This might not seem like such a big deal, but to me it was a mental hurdle that I finally got over on Saturday. For those that don't know, the issue is the aft bulkhead of the water ballast tank. The floor goes right over it and not getting a good seal here will cause a leak that would suck, but also be really difficult to fix. My tank has every face glass cloth covered, except the edges of all the round passageways, and those I coated very well.

 

On the top of all the cleat stock I coated everything very heavy. Not being able to attend to the joints after putting the top down means any water getting in any cracks is trapped and a potential source of rot. I considered cutting across the floor at the bulkhead location so it would be in two pieces, and I still think this isn't a bad idea. It would allow one to handle the tank sealing separately from the aft air chamber and I don't think it would have any effect on strength, especially if you glass it. That module is like a giant torsion box and its amazing how rigid the boat has become. Anyway, I wound up probably using more epoxy than necessary. First I lightly sanded and re-coated the bottom of the floor and all the cleats with unfilled epoxy. When it started to kick I took one of my daughters pastry bags and filled it with thickened epoxy and squeezed a nice thick bead across all the cleats and doubled up the aft bulkhead that I worried so much and then I set her down.

 

Jay had a great idea of using a cell phone to look in and see if there was squeeze out. I took his advice and slid a flashlight in the hatch openings and through the big vent holes followed by a recording camera. The good news.....squeeze out. The bad news.....squeeze out. My OCD doesn't like the idea I couldn't reach in to wipe the joints nice and clean and I probably used more epoxy than necessary, but she's done. Hurray!

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More good news. Installing a hatch in the aft section allows you to check for, and remove any water that finds it's way in. Sounds like with all that squeeze-out, you won't have a problem. So quit worrying, already! She's lookin' fine! As far as your OCD is concerned---don't look under there anymore!

 

Maybe I missed it, but have ya got a name yet?

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Chick, lot's of potential names, but none that have stuck. I know she'll come. Yeah....that OCD is tough. The good news is tonight I'll have the seat hatches just about done except for glassing the tops. That was a finicky but fun job!

 

Question of the day. On the aft cabin panel, which tips forward a couple of degree, is the cross section of the cleat tapered or cut in any configuration. I can see the width scribed out on the panel, but I'm not sure if it's rectangular in x-section. It seems it should be cut at an angle so the seat tops glue properly.

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I assume you are asking about the cleat attached to the aft side of Bulkhead 3: I beveled the cleat with a handplane to the proper angle so the seat top would lay flat on it.  I epoxied it to the bulkhead on the workbench prior to installing the bulkhead in the boat.  I obtained the angle by dry fitting the bulkhead using the CNC drawn lines on the side panels and using a bevel gauge placed on the longitudinal cleats and the bulkhead.

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Head for your local "big box" store. Look for weather stripping for doors and windows. Here is one: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Frost-King-0-75-in-x-10-ft-Black-Foam-Door-Weatherstrip/3047980

 

It won't stick well by itself. Graham recommends washing the adhesive off with acetone and gluing the stripping down with epoxy. I glued mine on with weather strip adhesive from an auto parts store, without the acetone wash, and it seemed to work fine.

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Strange Quandary. Remember, my boat is #3, so this might be just applicable to early boats. In the pic below, you can see that the forward bulkhead has a width of just over 24". In Pete's fantastic notes he mentions he shaved a bit off the outside of the slot to get 24.5. No problem.

 

The hanging knees I wired in and set the width at 24.5, giving two 3/4" beams a width of 23", same as the cabin opening. When measuring the hull width at both sets of knees it is perfect. Truly amazing ho accurate this kit is.

 

The problem is at the 2nd bulkhead back. It is exactly 24". I put a board on it with a couple of spring clamps to keep it straight. Could it be squeezed in from 24.5 to exactly 24? If it did, it certainly can't be pressed back now that it's glassed in. Should I just cut 1/4" inch off both sides? 

Bulkheads.jpg

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Steve,

short answer is yes trim them 1/4". we changed the fwd bulkhead and hanging knees in the kit to go all the way across from one side to the other with notching for the deck beams after we realized it made it a lot easier to ensure the hull maintained the correct beam at the knees. 

-Alan

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  • 2 weeks later...

I find these logs of progress really interesting and feel like I have gotten to know many of you. With that in mind, I just want to post the sad news of losing my Dad Wednesday night. This is his obituary that my niece put together.

 

"The captain has set sail for heavenly waters. Hugh M. Warfle, age 79, of Geneva, NY passed away peacefully surrounded by family on March 1. He was born in Blossburg, PA on March 15, 1937. Hugh graduated from Wellsboro, PA High School in 1955, and Bryant and Stratton Business Institute in 1957. He then served in the U.S. Coast Guard in Baltimore, MD from 1958 to 1962, where he developed his lifelong love for boating.

 

He worked for NYS Electric & Gas for 26 years, and was a longstanding member of the NYS Canal Society. After retirement, Hugh obtained his master captain’s license for 200 ton vessels, and captained a tour boat and other charters for many years. He was also an avid motorcyclist.Hugh was a friend to all and the life of every gathering. Friends and family will remember Hugh’s congenial nature and endless stories from his childhood in Wellsboro, PA, his time in the Coast Guard, raising his children in East Aurora, and his later years in the pink cottage on Seneca Lake. Hugh will also be remembered as a father and grandfather of many talents, from pesky loose tooth-pulling, to the best boat maneuvers for maximum tubing wake, to flooding a farm pond for smoother ice-skating."

 

There are many more details of his four kids, thirteen grand-kids and one great grandchild, but you get the picture. He was super positive, sometimes too much so. Most people thought I was nuts to build this boat, but Dad thought "why not?". I inherited my moms craftsmanship, but those who know me know I can talk and my "What could go wrong?" attitude.....that's all dad. I owe my love of the water to him and my heart is just heavy. Thanks Dad for everything.

 

 
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