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Steve W

Core Sound 20 Mark III #3 "Jazz Hands"

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Chick Ludwig    112

Steve. I haven't built the board yet for Summer Breeze, but I've come to the same conclusion as you about the lead "shoe" so won't be doing the rope trick. Doing the panels flat seems like a good idea. Yes, the holes were in mine already. Be sure that the inside edges of the holes get plenty of epoxy coats to seal the edge grain.

 

I will be adding an extra access hatch to the dry area behind the ballast tank. I don't trust totally enclosed areas with no access or way to dry them. Seems like moisture often finds it's way into places like this somehow. I always open the hatches on all enclosed areas like this compartment and the ballast tank to allow them to "air out" between cruises.

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MickG    1

Steve: 
Where do you do most of your sailing? I see that you live in Honeoye Falls,Ny. I l ive in Orchard Park, Ny and have s summer place on Silver Lake, in Wyoming County, not to far from Geneseo. I ave a CS 20 (my 2nd one) I do a bit of Antique & Classic Boat judging and attend the shows in Hamondsport and Skeanatlas. If you are interested in some conversation give me a call at 71-662 1949. 

 

Regards, Mick Griffin

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Steve W    41

Do you know my friend Sean Quigley? His family (wife Michelle) has a cottage not far from the state ramp.  I've taken my Spindrift 11N to Silver lake once to sail on Sunday. They have a bunch of Sunfish they sail around for fun. BTW, I grew up in Wales Center, which I'm sure you drive through to get to Silver Lake.

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PAR    194

Yeah Steve, a squeegee or plastic applicator. It's faster, applies a more uniform film and uses less goo. Brushes and rollers are very wasteful of goo.

 

If you have a lead leading edge, there's no advantage to also using rope. It's a one or the other kind of thing. I prefer to weight boards, so you don't need a downhaul and a great place to put it, is along the leading edge. It protects the board and places the weight at the lowest point on the boat when it's retracted. 

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Steve W    41

Last night was fun. I put a third coat of resin on stuff I had already glassed and then worked on assembling the module. I had actually put a support stringer on the top of one of the tank baffles at 1 x 3/4 instead of 3/4 x 3/4. Yes it was on the assembly manual correct. Anyway, I had bought a Rabbet  plane at a flea market and it was a rusty mess. I spent about two hours cleaning it and sharpening the blade to a razor sharp edge and adjusting it, and about 5 minutes fixing the actual problem. I'm in no hurry and I am enjoying the process. I will soon get a system to post pictures.

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Steve W    41

New Dilemma. How much clearance should the Centerboard have within the centerboard trunk? I got everything ready to glue up and laid a straight edge across the perfectly flat trunk assembly with the board laying flat at it's head between the trunk framing and it looks like only about 1/16 of clearance.It seems both precise and possibly too precise (potentially too tight)!

 

I used a dial caliper to measure everything as I constructed it, The only thing I couldn't control was the thickness of the glass and resin combo on the board and the glass on the port side of the trunk, but I squeegeed it so I don't believe there is excess resin. It swings easily, but I have heard others wish they had more clearance. While the board is a bit thinner lower, I also anm unsure if the glass shhull sheathing wraps into the trunk and would narrow the opening. I have a bunch of thoughts as to how to repair this if it;s determined to be too tight, but I'm open to suggestions.

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Chick Ludwig    112

Steve. I don't think that 1/16 inch clearance is enough. I like to leave 1/8 inch, and I think that this is what Graham recommends too. Other than grinding the board down and re-covering it, I'm not sure how to fix it when the trunk is glued together and installed, but if it isn't, and if I'm reading you right , it isn't, then I'd add a strip of wood on the side of your king posts (framing) to space the sides further apart. ( Hey---that was a long sentence!)

 

As for the "glass sheathing", grind a taper around the bottom of the trunk opening to accept this. I would use two layers of glass over the joint. One layer is the hull sheathing plus one layer of glass strip. This is an important joint that will get a lot of stress. A leak here can "spoil your day" eventually when it starts to rot.

 

Welcome to the world of problem solving while building boats. That's why we have a "moaning chair" somewhere in our shop. Graham has said that a sign of a good workman isn't that he doesn't make mistakes, but how he fixes them. (Loosely paraphrased)

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Steve W    41

I agree that the clearance isn't enough. But whatever happened happenned. I'd already planned to add a strip of wood to the top of the trunk frames. The only bad part is that I put the glass cloth down inside the frames and this would leave a bit of wood exposed edge, so I'm going to have to taper the current glass back and then run another layer on the inside of the frames. Luckily there is plenty of clearance for that.

 

BTW, Graham is right. 

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Jknight611    21

Steve, after we spent so much effort/time to get a tight "wobble" free fit in the board case, it was balky in lowering the board. I had to drop the board and thin the "cheeks" on the board a bit. I have probably 3/16 clearance or wobble on the board, goes up and down just fine now, and doesn't seem to make any difference in performance. I coated the wear area between the board and trunk sides with epoxy with graphite. Sand that if you want to make a mess!

Works good now.....

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Steve W    41

I'm leaning towards making it a full 3/16 like you and then shimming the board if I need to. I've just had my miserable sailing life of dagger and centerboards flash before me eyes....

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Hirilonde    174

I'm leaning towards making it a full 3/16 like you and then shimming the board if I need to. I've just had my miserable sailing life of dagger and centerboards flash before me eyes....

That would not be the worst thing you could do.  I made my trunk a tad fat and then added a coat of epoxy to the board after fitting it to the installed trunk.  When you glass tape the outside of the hull into the trunk, you make it skinnier too.  It ends up being a tweaking process to get a nice fit.  Finding the board binds is a lot harder to compensate for.   It is easier to make the board slightly fatter than any other option I can think of. 

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meester    22

I'm roughly at the same stage as Steve, preparing to install the centerboard case.  In Alan's CS15 video, he puts some blocks in the CB case to keep the sides from getting squeezed in during the filleting and taping, and for making adjustments to keeps the sides straight.  I think I made enough clearance but, would there be any harm in making the blocks just a little big to spring the sides out a little?  

 

If the king posts are glued to one side already, how about including FG cloth in the final joint as you glue the two sides of the CB case together?

 

Bob

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Chick Ludwig    112

Meester, the binding problem probably will occur in the pivot area of the board, so springing the sides may not help. I'd just use the spacer board cut to the tolerance required as Alan shows. When you make your board, just be sure it is no thicker than called for. A strip or two of glass in the joint will give a bit more clearance if you really need it, but if you build everything to specs, all should be well. As per your quote: "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement"

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Steve W    41

Between my 8th graders band concert and hosting an open mic night I spent 20 minutes thinking. I figured out where I went wrong. Alan gave me a full size drawing of the centerboard that included a cross section. Being the knucklehead I am I built a sweet board exactly to the drawing in Douglas fir, without subtracting the glass thickness. I did taper the blade to match the lead tip. I realized the only thing I needed to do was what Jay did and remove the glass off of one of the cheeks. Late last night I snuck out to the garage with the board and with a heat gun, respirator and a knife I removed the glass off of the cheek and later today I'll get an old No 6 Stanley hand plane and scrape off about 1/8 of an inch, re-radius it and re-glass. I think of the two solutions this is the easiest, and keeps the boat as close to stock as possible. I'll need to taper in the new glass along the blade, but that shouldn't be hard. We'll see.

 

I like all the quotes, but Jays I shared at breakfast this morning with my kids. "Experience, something you gain right after you need it."

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Action Tiger    140

Scary how a little heat makes epoxy let got like that, eh?

Glad you're figuring out your problems. Issues like this will only add to your pride and satisfaction when you are done and sailing your cool boat.

It will all work out in the end, so if it hasn't worked out yet, you're not at the end. :)

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Steve W    41

So some pics to show problem and solution.

 

Board too thick as explained above:

 

2015-12-12%25252011.12.16.jpg

 

I scored the board with a skill saw to use as a guide while planing.

 

2015-12-12%25252011.33.54.jpg

The board 2.0

2015-12-13%25252011.31.41.jpg

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