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Steve W

Core Sound 20 Mark III #3 "Jazz Hands"

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Hi All, I tried a 2 pin plug for my mast,  pretty corrosive area with the salty anchor rhode and stuff, in 2 months it was useless.  Chic has the right idea, I removed the plug,  next time I pull the boat (mast up) into the carport I’ll worry about the wires then.....

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There are a few different connectors you can use, but the ones that work in these applications are "deck connectors" which have a threaded sleeve and rubber seal, that insure it can't come undone and water can't get in. Some cheaper ones, usually plastic have a 1/4 turn locking mechnisium, which works, but are not as tough if kicked or beat up.

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This is the "SeaDog" piece, with built in strain relief and chrome plated brass construction.

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This is the plastic version and it doesn't look like it has a positive lock. Just a passive lip that gets stretched over the base (maybe).

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This is what I'd recommend for a "combo" masthead light. If using just as an anchor, you can use the extra wires for masthead cockpit lighting, which is darn handy, when fishing around the bottom of the cooler for the last cold beer, well after sundown.

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PAR, I was gonna use one of those two pin jobbers until I discovered that the light I ordered required three wires. I probably woulda used the bottom one you show if I'd found it. Who makes/sells that one?

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Over the many years of marine surveying I have always looked in contempt at the deck fittings shown. After a while water seems to get into pins. On my voyaging boat I built a stainless tube swan neck epoxied to the cabin top. The wires ran from the mast up into the tube and down into the cabin where they went into a terminal block. The wires were caulked where they went into the tube but because it was down facing, UV degradation could not happen. All of the connections inside were smothered in a dielectric grease before the cover went on. IT WORKED.

 

On Carlita I used a cheap fitting like the one shown but installed it under deck so that sun and water should not mess with it and I liberally coated it with tef gel.

 

The only aggravation that I have had with it is gravity. It has fallen out bouncing on the highway. It does not have a screw and depends on friction to hold it in place. A screw on fitting would be better. My pins are round and are split  I have been able to gently force a knife blade and spread the pins which has worked.

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I've used the gooseneck approuch on masts, but prefer "bulkhead" connectors, to deck connectors. It seems the O ring/formed ring gets crunched pretty easily, but if replaced, they work pretty good, if mounted horizontally. They have better ones than the ones above, some with double water penetration, sleeves and gaskets, but these too wear out. The setup I like the most on mast wiring is the male/female wire ends that screw together (inline connectors). It's like above except no base, just the fitting on the wire. The connection can be taped, to further seal it, but it's easy enough to remove and the wire exit from the mast can be caulked (or placed in an exit box) and the wire going into the deck or cabin top can be handled the same way. I've been using Amphenol products and the "Amphe-EX" is a bullet (actually explosion) proof setup, for not a lot of money, assuming you don't wan to replace it in a generation. Available in deck, bulkhead, inline, etc. configurations, with many pin arrangements as you can like, including USB, coax and standard data transfer and power (2, 3, 4, 5 + pins, etc.). The EX series have waterproof, double strain relief connections.

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Thanks for all the help! Makes me want to go back to sanding........lol. I'm just waiting for a few more lights to mount before I move on from the electrical phase and back to construction. I started out thinking AA powered gizmos and simplicity to what we refer in the software business to "Feature creep". Proves I'm human.

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Updates from the frozen North. We got about a foot of snow Friday night/Saturday morning, so we went Nordic Skiing after cleaning up the driveway. I only worked on the boat about 4 hours this weekend total, but the snow was so good what can you do? And yes, that sliding glass door in my basement will give birth to a boat someday.

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I wanted to minimize intrusion into the cabin to allow me and others to lounge below so figuring out where to put the electrical gear baffled me. Some mornings I get a cup of coffee and just sit inside the boat. There are so many good ways to sit I didn't want to affect any of them. I finally decided that this was a good compromise.  And I can still reach the switches from the cockpit.

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I put a fuse block/buss bar on the inside with a removable cover. I ran all the wires for the most part just to be sure I had everything pre-drilled properly.  Those are 12V power outlets on each side. My goal is to paint the interior and so I want to seal all the edges in the holes first. I'm going to make a slide in plexiglass cover for the hole.

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Thanks to your recommendations I found a plug to send the nav/anchor light wiring through. I tucked it high and out of the way to keep it projected and dry. I wanted to get all this done before I glue on the roof which may happen later today. I temporarily wired the masthead light to test it all out. 

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The Solar charge controller is going here. My battery is in the the front of the bunks and I couldn't see any reason to bring wire aft then forward so this seemed like a good compromise location. I can see the voltage readings from the cockpit. The wires that came with my 50 Watt panel seem like they could jump start a car, and running them all the way to the battery is going to be tough to keep neat and unsightly, but I think this should work. Not shown I have two LED Cabin lights that are hooked to the cabin light switch on the panel, two LED reading lights on there own switches and a small dome light that will get mounted below the hatch garage. I have another 12V plug and I'm debating putting it out in the cockpit. 

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So now I can move on to putting the cabin roof on and building hatches. I read once that boat building is all about being stubborn. Seems about right!

 

 

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I like your approach Steve and, like you, we like both skiing and sailing but don't need to shovel our driveway clear. I have also put the solar panel controller up on one of the forard cabin knees and it is fine there. One day I will wire in a voltmeter, but my multimeter tells me I get a good solid charge from the panel even in poor light. Because I lengthened my cabin I have the switch panel up on the aft bulkhead and that works very nicely and is pretty well out of the way.I used rectangular conduit glued in alongside the cabin stringers to keep the wiring tidy.

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Thanks for the comments. Chick, I saw your boat so if you say it's "purty" that's a good thing. Last night, with the assistance of my wife and youngest son, I glued on the cabin top. It seems like a big milestone.

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I was singing " Come in, she said, I'll give ya shelter from the storm". 

 

Tonight I can get the opening trimmed to make access easier. And then the next round of fun begins!

 

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