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Steve W

Core Sound 20 Mark III #3 "Jazz Hands"

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Thanks gentlemen. I'm gluing the mizzen step/seat in tonight and have the mizzen tube to make. I have plenty of time to make the tiller before launch. I'll hold off until after the messabout. I like the curved tiller as there is enough straight lines on these boats. I took some pictures of Grahams but I think it relies on getting some of its strength from the glue up to the rudder head. 

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OK, next questions. 

 

1. I'm thinking of sealing the seat backs except for a storage cubby forward. I want to round the coaming to soften the lines just aft a bit. I also am not a fan of that opening in the back.  I can't think of a good reason this is a bad idea except that I lose oar storage.  Anybody care to comment?

 

2. since I'm not willing to give up oars, in thinking about storage I've come up with a solution. I'm thinking of putting a plastic port in the aft locker (probably starboard side) on the forward bulkhead. The lockers on the 20 are over 5 feet long and would allow 2 piece oars to slip through this port when stowing and then lay in the bottom of the locker when pulled back.  Putting the port lid back on would reseal the cabin. Reverse to remove.   I'm guessing 9.5 - 10 foot long based on my narrow Sea Pearl. I think with my height I won't have to lower the gunnel like Graham, but who knows. If she was out of my basement shop I could sort of get a feel. So does anyone have any idea if 10 foot oars are long enough? 

 

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1. In my Renegade we had storage under the combing which is basically the same as your in the combing storage would be.  It is very convenient.  I kept winch handles, sunscreen, sundries and didn't have to worry about them bouncing around the cockpit. It had an oval opening that kept stuff from sliding out.  If the surface is fair, having a cut out doesn't really interfere with being a back rest.  And you can use cushions.  Depends on how much you like some convenient cockpit storage.

 

2. Oar length is mostly determined by width at the rowing station.  My 5'-6½" beam Lapwing when plugged into the formula yielded 10' oars.  I find them a little long.  Dunno if that is because I am a weakling or they really are.  Duckworks sells carbon fiber ferrules for 2" diameter oars.  Note that most oarlocks won't accommodate 2".  I suppose the oars don't have to be accessed in seconds, but then I have a paddle on the side of my centerboard trunk for quick access as well as the oars.  I use the paddle often getting away from the boat ramp.

 

The decisions become fun at this point.

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For what it's worth, here's an oar length plot I made up using oar length formulas from Shaw and Tenney, and from Collars.  I think freeboard might be another important parameter, but freeboard is not included in their formulas.

Bob

oar_lengths.PNG.c1e6b75db02803a0f0a51018eb9cf95f.PNG

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Freeboard can be a huge consideration, plus the seat rise height and distance the seat is below the rail too. I've found you just have to climb in and try various lengths, without previous builds providing a reasonable answer.

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I got to see a few boats a the MASCF. Meesters CS15 with the Lug Rig was really a neat boat and I watched it sail really fast in the race. I took the pictures for the award ceremony and while I met most of the builders I am not sure we crossed paths. 

 

I saw Pete's CS20.3 and he was having motor troubles and decided not to launch. I'll hopefully sail on her at the messabout. Carlita was looking her fine self and the buzz around her was something. Graham and Alan did a great job as the featured speaker Saturday night and I got a lot of "wow that is what your building?" after that. All in all it was a great weekend. hopefully next year I'll have "Jazz Hands" there.  The gunkhole trip to Wye Island had pretty good wind and its fun sailing in a fleet like that.

 

As for the race, I got a new watch with a touch screen. I got it wet and it was rendered useless. So I got a really bad start in the race. My crew counted "one potato two potato" as our means of timing from the 1 minute flag. When he got to 43 the gun went off. Oops, but we had a lot of fun!

 

I'll see many of you in a few weeks!

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Steve,

For what it's worth, I left my combings open at the stern, but I've trimmed them w a 3/8" trim to cover the ply edge and framing. I wanted the cockpit openings to store the kind of stuff Hirolonde mentions, and likely my oars too. One thought I had was that if you were to broach or knockdown and the combing filled, you'd be in a bad way until they drained. Leaving the end open seemed to offer some prospect for quicker drainage than a weep hole.

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Steve, we will have our boat at the Messabout both you and Amos are welcome aboard for a sail.  Looking forward to seeing everyone at the Messabout! 

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I saw a variety of holes cut in the seat comings and decided to go for my own look. I made a paper template and decided on a look.The top of the opening follows the radius of the top of the coming. It looked goofy until that change.

 

Then I made a template (becomes a backing plate) and taped it to again make sure it looked good. I also maybe want to put a way to put a drink holder somehow in there and tested that. I thought they looked great but was reminded how simple this probably is on a CNC machine and Alan or Graham could have done the design, looked at in a model, adjusted it if necessary and "printed" out the part in short order. But it was fun.

 

I made a second one with a pattern bit and the router table and then gang cut the two openings on the real coming. Next I put a small radius on the two backing plates (formerly templates) and glued them on to the backside of the comings. this may not be necessary, but they stiffen things a bit and allow a bigger radius (1/4") and give a more robust (thicker) appearance to the opening.

2017-10-14 11.35.53.jpg

 

And a morning was used up.

 

2017-10-17 07.18.20.jpg

 

It's a marathon, not a sprint.

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Nice looking cut-outs for the seat coaming. For what it is worth, I chose to reinforce the seat back by putting about three  small bulkheads in. This helped maintain the shape and add strength. I added 1/2 inch weep holes into the cockpit at each small bulkhead and a hole in the bulkhead halfway up for air to circulate (if all that makes sense).

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When I bought my "kit" the windows weren't designed yet but I really like the look of Carlita's.

 

Graham, as promised had templates he made waiting for me at the messabout. I also got some riv-nuts from Alan. I had to cut up the templates to fit them in my suitcase for the flight back to NY, but last night I taped them back together. I had "eyeballed" in the location of where I thought they should go and was only off by a bit when I clamped them into position. I used the template to mark the openings and cut them out with a jig saw. Then I re-clamped the templates back and used a drill bit to transfer the holes and a trim router to make the openings perfect. Cool beans! Thank you Graham. Pictures soon.

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Steve, I like the look of the elliptical ports better too. Summer Breeze came along before I saw them though. I prefer opening to fixed ports after living in Florida and needing all the circulation I could get. There are elliptical ports available. https://www.five-oceans.com/articulo/elliptical-white-porthole-16-1-8-x-8-5-8-20x-40-cm-/3622

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Inspired by a piece of plywood I saw in the B & B shop nicely kerfed and curved, I went back home with a vague plan. I love the Mark 3 boats, but the opening to the "Oar storage" looks a bit unfinished for my taste. I decided that I'd give up the oar storage (more on that in the near future) and add a bit of decorative touch. Here is what I came up with. I wasted a whole Saturday fooling around and changed my mind numerous times, and the port one fits slightly better than the starboard, but my son Andrew and I had a lot of fun.

 

59f9b94e59ac8_2017-11-0106_48_00.thumb.jpg.349985b4eb8d61b0d92f32038e045a49.jpg

We fooled around with a bunch of templates on the stern openings and ultimately decided on round. Simple.

 

I wound up using the okume I had cut out from the windows for stock on everything including the doubling (gives a thicker appearance to match forward)

 

59f9b94fedfb5_2017-11-0106_50_46.thumb.jpg.c329edaec7970c4e7f9ceb35409dcec9.jpg 

 

I glued in the Riv-nuts for the portslights. Tonight I'll glue on the trim rings. I wanted to get this done before working on the cabin top as I could reach everything easy now.

59f9bb30ba0f4_2017-11-0106_47_47.thumb.jpg.9164689fdcc39774d79d42330359ec57.jpg

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Probably not. No money in the budget. I will maybe do a few things on the Breeze. Looks like she's staying with me. I like the galley shelf that Graham built in Carlita. Also need some shelves up forward. Other than that, I only have my "tin" Starcraft outboard runabout to renovate.

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Chick— If you bring that tin boat to the next mess-about, I’m getting out the can opener!  (Just joking, mostly.)

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