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Core Sound 20 Mark III #3 "Skeena"


Steve W

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So sorry to hear about your Dad. He sounds like a wonderful man and father. I know how much you'll miss him. I often think of my Dad, and sometimes I'll be doing or seeing something, and I'll think to myself, "I gotta tell Dad about this". I know you'll value the memories. 

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My own father left when I was 8. 

 

I can't even begin to imagine what you must feel, but please remember all the good times with your dad. And remember that he wanted this boat to be.

 

This boat will be so special when you finish it.

 

You have persevered through a bunch of doodoo, Brother.

Your strength and resolve are inspiring.

 

Peace,

Robert 

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  • 1 month later...

In case you all thought I had given up on "UnNamed", you would be wrong. I've been very busy with life, but not so busy I couldn't chip away at stuff. Her is a picture of my seat hatch frame as proof.

 

It's been good therapy. I think I'm going to concentrate on he cockpit for a bit before I move to the cabin top.

 

 

2017-04-16 00.20.41.jpg

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Don, yes! I think the high free-board demands a good ladder. I'm hoping this solution works good. Unfortunately the reverse angle transom will cause installation issues, but I have a plan!

 

Question for CS sailors: I am going to put those U-bolt cleats like Graham has on Carlita. Is there a rule as to where to locate them? They look like they could conveniently catch the mizzen sheet. I'm thinking the motor will catch it bad enough. Any thoughts? I want to drill and fill the holes before I add the aft deck.

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Graham, what do you think without the boomkin? I'm not going to have one as I'm hoping to fit this boat in my garage (I'll put a hinge on the tongue and it should be OK).

 

Looking at the drawings it seems the arc of the mizzen sheet puts them right where they might snag. On my Sea Pearl it's a battle and so maybe I'm over sensitive to this issue. To lessen the possibility on the SP I moved the sheet attachment a bit forward, but this seems not possible on this type of rig. Maybe I'm worrying too much. Jay, Doug, Chick?

 

Last night I fitted the cockpit drainage tubes. Not much excitement, but progress nonetheless.

 

A suggestion to the good folks at B & B and anyone building this boat. At the point you attach the sheer strakes (and maybe even attaching the stern panel), put a "prop rod" between the aft bulkhead (blue below) and the hull, which of course is backed by the temporary gunnel. You could lay the cockpit top in to get the correct measurement. I was careful to try and get his geometry correct, but my seats don't quite fit until I forced them out a bit with what is going to be a permanent stringer now, right on the seat top/panel joint. I think it was Pete who commented on this first, and while I was careful, it still wasn't quite right. Pushing it out forcefully lets the tops sit right where they belong.

2017-04-16 00.20.41.jpg

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I forgot to hit "submit reply" back when I wrote this. So sorry to hear about your Dad. He sounds like a wonderful man and father. I know how much you'll miss him. I often think of my Dad, and sometimes I'll be doing or seeing something, and I'll think to myself, "I gotta tell Dad about this". I know you'll value the memories. 

 

As for the mizzen sheet. I don't think mine would be a problem except that it hangs up on the "foot" of my motor when it's tilted. Also some times on my transom ladder. The ladder is mounted too high on the transom and sticks up.

DSCN1986.JPG

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Hey Steve, 

 

Boat is looking good. That missing dimension is 2 3/8" forward of the aft edge of the tabernacle side. 

 

On fitting the seat tops, be careful when adding a prop like that as you could force a little bump in the sheer. It would be better to trim the side of the aft seat top so it just drops into place especially since it doesn't matter since it's getting covered over by the cockpit coaming anyway. We never intended every piece to fit perfectly. Well I mean we did but the computer model is one thing and bending wood is another thing. :) We also could have deducted 1/8" all the way around the seat tops from the beginning for a looser fit which I think we did on the cockpit sole or else it would have been an interference fit. 

 

-Alan

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Thanks Alan for the dimension. I'm having fun.

 

I here you about the stick pushing the side out. I think if I did this a second time I'd not fiberglass the transom (just wire it) in until the temporary gunnels were attached and then I'd use these "spreaders" to force the stern wide. You could also just lay the aft deck panel in to spread it. But my temporary gunnels wanted to force the top of the hull a bit straighter than the design. Pete had the same problem. I wound up off by about 5/16 of an inch on both sides where the spreaders are. I decided to glue in the deck support stringers using screw/pads from outside and then before the glue kicked put the spreaders in to push it our a bit. As far as I can tell there is no bump and the amount is so subtle the aft part of the gunnel isn't concave. But I will relax and split the difference to be sure. Part of my problem is I am too fussy!

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My port side is about 3/16 closer to the centreline than my stbd side at the place you have put a spreader Steve. I decided that it really doesn't matter. It won't affect the boat's handling and is one of those unique things about a hand built boat. I guess I messed up a bit when I joined the transom to the sides. Que sera!

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Chipping away. I had some old growth Douglas fir I was saving for a special occasion. I decided this qualifies. Tonight I'll fiberglass the pivot area as per plans. This took way more time than it should have, but that's typical. I can't permanently install it or my boat won't come out my walk out basement door, but I want to fasten it temporarily while I get the cabin top together which is coming soon.

 

5900fa1a59538_2017-04-2607_40_32.thumb.jpg.9f3d453747ea6bc21ba35349ebd8e33c.jpg

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OK, so I placed two layers of glass on the top of the tabernacle on each inner and outer face per instructions. Now that it is cured, when I put the bolt through the mast I'm left with about a full 1/8 to 3/16 total gap for both sides, which seems kind of sloppy. Is that right or should I add more glass strips to the interior faces to snug it up?

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