mcdermitt Posted October 1, 2014 Report Share Posted October 1, 2014 I read a reply on the forum about doing the hull it was rather long but very informative. the writer said some thing about rolling the glass out cutting it and marking where it when before you mix any epoxy and on and on I can not find it maybe some one can put me on to it. I was ready to start and they called me to have my rotator cuff operated on and I lost where I was. Now I am starting to get things started again in the next few weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted October 2, 2014 Report Share Posted October 2, 2014 If it was a long winded post, I might be the culprit, just ask my other half about my verbosity. After a few dozen post on this site, I'll need a little more detail about which it might be and I can help you find it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcdermitt Posted October 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 been a while since I read itthe post started of with a list of every thing you need to have on hand before you start every thing you needed then there was a part about rolling the glass out and marking on the hull and the glass index marks so it stayed in place and did not move when you start. and cut some places in it for the bow portion. then there was a part about starting to put the epoxy on the hull and let the glass wet itself that way before you poured and on. them not sure brush roll it on then squege the excess and then move on to the next section rolling out more cloththat is all I can recall. I was wondering it you do bottom and side all at the same time. it seems as if the epoxy on the side would just run off or do you use thickened epoxy.about how much epoxy does it take to do the bottom and side. how long do you think it would take if all the ducks are lined upit will be a while before I can start but I think I will do it in the late afternoon and evening so it does not kick off while I am doing it it will be a one man show I think. my one grand son goes to school in the afternoon and the other thinks he is in love I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnjost Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 I did the side and bottom at the same time. 1/2 hulls then the transom. If you roll the epoxy on thin enough it won't sag. Use a roller and a plastic squeegee. It takes at least 3 coats of epoxy to fill the weave. If you are not finishing clear, then use something like WEST 410 to fair the final finish. This will need a little thixotropic powder added to prevent it from sagging. I did one side at a time, and mixed small batches. after two hours, I cut off the excess once it reached the plastic stage, then proceeded to the other side and transom. IT is the finishing of the surface that takes the time. Many, many, hours of sanding / Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcdermitt Posted October 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 I am building a cs-17 nd have the epoxy and glass from Graham I am going to use awlgrip 545 for a primer. I have sanded the hull and filled all the low spots where the scarf joints are and all the holes from screws. I feels real smooth to the feel. I used a longboard that they use in body shops. I used epoxy thickened and loots of micro baloons in the mix I used to do the fairing. I used 50 grit paper in the longboard I think it was 15 inches long. It did not take a lot to smooth it down. I am not going to look for a show boat but I want it to look good and last a good while. I would do half one day and the other the next. So you went all the way from the top of transom all the way to the top of the bow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 Floyd- i will just add that if you don't have wide enough glass and there is a seam, make the seam at bottom half, not on side so it won't be visible in the water. 50" glass is just wide enough as I recall. I rolled on the goo on the wood, but then squeegeed the goo into the glass to work it in. An extra set of hands helps position the glass and smooth it out. good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom151 Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 about how much epoxy does it take to do the bottom and side (?) I find it useful to estimate the amount of resin to mix by planning on a 50/50 ratio of glass to epoxy in the finished product. Use the weight per sq yard of the glass you're using and multiply by the yards of glass you're doing (for each session) - that should approximate the total amount of epoxy you need to use. If I remember (no guarantee, here) I'd mix half of that amount and spread it on the surface then roll the precut glass onto the surface and squeegee it until the glass shows clear - then apply the remaining epoxy after the glass is properly positioned and smoothed with the initial coat. By rolling up the glass piece into a tube before applying I found that I could usually do this easily without any second set of hands for helping to hold and position the glass fabric onto the wet surface. Usually I'd start unrolling from the transom end, keeping the straight edge aligned along the keel/centerline of the hull and working out the wrinkles as I go. Lastly, about filling the weave... If the glass shows the weave after the epoxy has gone green but before it goes full hard -- I use a wide scraper (hardware store paint scraper, about 4" to 6" wide with sharp blade) to scrape the epoxy smooth (use EXTREME care to NOT scrape into the fiberglass. For me, this greatly reduces (nearly eliminates) the extra coats of epoxy needed for filling the weave (and the sanding needed to get a smooth finish). Saves the weight and cost of extra coats of epoxy too. Just saying. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnjost Posted October 4, 2014 Report Share Posted October 4, 2014 Tom has a good point here. Scraping the glass just prior to hardening will save hours of sanding and filling. If you do use a filler, go with the ultralight such as WEST 410. today, I put on two coats of primer (system 3 LPU waterbase). It is amazing how many dips and bumps become apparent when it is viewed from a coat of paint. Still, It is one of my BETTER fairing jobs. The paint seems to fill the low spots and the high spots can be sanded relatively smooth. Rain screwed up the Centerboard, will need to scrape, sand and prime again. Good luck David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted October 4, 2014 Report Share Posted October 4, 2014 If you do use a filler, go with the ultralight such as WEST 410. 410 is really soft. I will sometimes add some to 407 if I will have to do a lot of sanding, but I keep it to a minimum. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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