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Marissa 18 Eco Build ~ PHOTOS~


MikeLTour61

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  • 3 weeks later...

Sorry for the delay in updates.  I had to travel for work but I'm back at it.  I have rigged up for flipping the boat and put the first coat of topcoat on the hull.  The bottom will stay white (one or 2 more coats) and I will finish with fighting lady yellow above the bootstripe (which will be red) as in Dale's Salty.

 

I've had some cratering issues with the Awlgrip topcoat - not a lot but in a few spots.  The hull was cleaned with the Awlgrip prep solution just prior to painting.  I'm going to get some Crater-X and hope for the best.  Other than the craters, the Awlgrip flows very well.  I'm finding that thin coats are best to avoid sags.  I'm guessing that the Crater-X will allow the paint to sag more readily so I'll be on the lookout for that.

 

Also, I made a gizmo to hold the bow of the boat up with my engine hoist when I flip it.  I'll use a spreader and come-alongs mounted to the ceiling at bulkhead 2 to rotate the hull.

 

As always, any advice is welcome.

 

Mike

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I can't tell your ceiling height.  My garage ceiling height is about 9'3".  I had the eye bolts just about flush with the ceiling.  I used come-alongs.  Be aware depending on how long they are you may not have enough room to turn her over.  I thought I had plenty of room and ended Just barely having enough.  I had to rest it and sort of manually lift it then she wanted to go over fast so be aware.  I had two straps through pulleys hanging from the come-alongs.  The idea was we would lift her up then just run the line though the pulley as she swung over.  Once we got her slightly over half way she just when over mostly uncontrolled.  No real problems but scary.

 

Hope that makes some sense.

 

That sure is a great color scheme you have chosen. I love it.

 

dale

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Thanks Dale. 

 

My ceiling is 10'.  I'm planning on removing the horses and setting the boat down to the floor (+1 1/2") prior to starting the rolling evolution.

 

Since I'm pivoting on the stem, I expect the boat will really want to roll once it gets past the halfway point.  I plan on countering this by bolting a 2x6 spreader to bulkhead-2 using angle iron & flat bar for backup.  Then lift on one side of the spreader and use the 'down side' as a fulcrum on the floor (with plenty of padding around in case the hull hits the floor).  That should mitigate the chance of it getting out of control at the balance point except for when it comes completely off the floor.  Then I plan to raise the low side and lower the high side until it's level.  I'm not planning on using any straps because all the lifting will be done via the spreader. 

 

What do you think?  My only concerns at this point are will the hull be able to withstand the twisting forces and is bulkhead-2 strong enough to hold 1/2 of the boat's weight.  What do you think the boat weighs at this point?

 

Thanks!!

 

Mike

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Sorry, I cannot answer your last questions. But I can tell you the boat is very strong. Why don't you move whatever you are doing at bulkhead 2 toward the center of the boat?

 

I am not sure I totally understand what you are doing but the lowering of the boat when it is upside down to the floor may not be good because when the boat moves to become totally on it side will essentially make your pivot point be half the beam width above the floor.  You are right to be concerned about it flipping fast.  I tried to control it with ropes and that did not work.

 

Hope that helps.

 

dale

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I used cross bracing screwed to forms, rolled the boat out of the garage to the lawn on 3 dollys then used the bracing as handles on one side and pivot on ground side to turn over. Inwhales were not yet installed so the bracing supplied rigidity. Easily accomplished with 2 daughters and son in law. Then had them lift front while I walked a trailer underneath.

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Greetings all.

 

I am new to this forum and highly interested in the Marissa build. The comments and photos are great and very encouraging.

The main reason I have not taken the plunge yet is because the availability of free time is an issue. Can anyone give me an indication of approximately

how much man hours it takes for a build. I am not an accomplished carpenter as Lotus is but I am an above average all rounder in mechanical and fabrication

with a little experience in carpentry but none in fiberglass and epoxy application.

 

You guys insight will be very helpful towards making a decision.

Blessings,

CJB

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Well come to the forum CJB.

 

I think its difficult that any one can tell how many hours it would take to build because it can vary for many reasons . But I can assure you that part of the fun is building the boat itself so it doesn't matter how long dose it take , 4 months or 4 years . The important thing is having fun in whats your doing or building !!

 

If you are an all rounder you will not find any difficulties in building the Marissa as the plans are very straight forward and helpful. 

 

All I can suggest you is get the plans and start this project ;) 

 

Good lack CJB and obviously don't hesitate to ask for any help you need !!

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Thanks for your input dale and tturtleboy.  Nobody seems to have had big problems in flipping their boats so I hope to stop loosing sleep over it any day now.

 

I'll be finishing up the bottom paint and bootstripe within a week or so and hope to have it upright by the start of the Christmas break.

 

CJB:  As far as build time goes, I can't speak to how long it will take to finish or how many hours I've spent up to now.  I started this project in July but I've been taking my time.  I have (or had) minimal experience working with epoxy and have learned a lot through trial and error and from this forum. 

 

If I was short on time or wanted to get on the water as fast as possible, I don't think building a boat would have been the right choice.  Lotus has lots of experience and may have more time than I do to devote to his boat and the build was VERY fast and VERY well done.  To come close to his results, I have to take my time... measure 20 times, cut once. 

 

Depending on your financial situation, tool situation and patience, you may want to buy the kit from Graham.  I did and I'm glad.  I know the parts will fit and there's less opportunity for human (me) error.

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Dale and anyone else who's flipped one of these:

 

I've attached some drawings of my plan to flip the boat.  As I said earlier, I'll use an engine hoist on the stem as a pivot point as shown in the photo.  The other shots are the sequence of events that I hope will transpire when the day comes.  I hope they are shown in order but if not, I think you'll get the idea.  Any input will be appreciated!

 

 

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Mike, how will prevent the boat pivoting lengthwise so the bow or stern doesn't crash down?  Is there more than one attachment point on each side, or have you figured it out and it won't be a problem?  To be clear, I haven't done this before so I can't offer advice, that's just something that I thought might be a problem.

 

Your boat looks great.

 

Matt

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Hi Mike , the boat looks great !. 

 

My opinion regard flipping the boat is find 3 or 4  other persons and just roll it over her sides. This way you will have more control on some unexpected movements she may take.

 

The boat is very lightweight at this stage but bulky to handle  , so please DON'T TRY TO FLIP IT BY YOURSELF   ask for some help !!  

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Thanks for the advice Lotus.  I've heard varying opinions... from always have help to always do it alone.  I plan to have help on hand but I don't know if I'll have enough to do the job.

 

Wile E., The plan is to have 3 lift points:  The bow will be a pivot point and the two points on the stern will be controlling the rolling motion.  The two lift points shown on the diagrams will be far aft at bulkhead 2.  That will keep weight on the bow pivot.  I don't think the boat will want to flip completely if it's only suspended by two points as in 'Flip 3' (bow and one side).  It should find its center of gravity somewhere past the halfway point.  Do you think I'm missing something?  If so, please let me know.

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I thought I would add this picture of my Marissa "flip" I used a single 1/2" rope a pulley and a rented machine, find the center of balance, lift and flip, flips very easily, stay back when she goes over center and or use another rope to hold her back as she will turn quickly. This is the same as Graham did it.

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Mike T.

I had to flip my boat alone and it wasn't nearly as hard as I'd thought Using  the Bow "U" bolt as my pivot point and the transom mount "U" bolts. By crossing the transom mounts. raising boat off work table then raising one side in increments and slacking the other side until she was a the tipping point. I attached a 2nd rope to the high side transom "U" bolt to limit tip-over, then I manhandled her past that which was a little nervous, but  worked great. Hope the pics make more sense..  .post-2180-0-01588800-1417533949_thumb.jpgpost-2180-0-83422300-1417534000_thumb.jpgpost-2180-0-05127100-1417534054_thumb.jpgpost-2180-0-23746000-1417534073_thumb.jpg

As can be seen from the paint scheme I did this twice. Be slow and cautious

 

MM 

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First, I spent a lot of time worrying too.  In the end it was not as bad as I thought it would be.

 

Two things I worry about what you are doing.  The pivot point will be carrying about 1/2 boat weight so Make sure it is firmly attached. I like MM's idea of using the bow and stearn bolts.  They are through bolted and therefore very strong.   I had the most problem with garage height and then the when boat reached your drawing #3.  It wanted to flip quickly.  It seems to me that your pivot point will make it flip even more quickly.  It seems like MMs cross at the stearn might be able to slow it.  I had two lines holding it up.  Basically wrapped around the hull and able to move freely. One about two feet from the stern and another about 6 feet or so from the bow.

 

I agree that it is good to have several strong men helping.  They can man handle it if necessary.  My son and his friend were there to help me which was very welcome and helped a lot.

 

Sorry, I tried to find photos then remembered that my other son was designated video man and he thought he had turned the camera on but did not so we have no record of the big event. 

 

Get someone to take videos from your phone or camera so you will be able help those who need it in the future.  A picture is worth a thousand words.

 

Good luck.

 

dale

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Thanks everyone for your input.  I like the bow eye & stern eye idea too.  The fixture I made is VERY heavy duty and bolted VERY tightly with 1/2" bolts but it is at the end of the stem.  My fear is that the end of the stem may split or break from the strain. 

 

I'll have one or two people available but because I tend to get distracted when I'm 'entertaining', I'd prefer to go it alone. 

 

Soooo.... here's what I'm thinking now - Install and use the bow and stern eyes.  Using the bow eye will reduce the flipping force and eliminate the chance of the great fixture I made from breaking something important. I agree that the stern eyes will be the most solid point to attach and lift.  Below are my revised diagrams.

 

Again, thanks to all for your input.  You're saving my bacon!

 

 

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It looks good to me.  However, I will point out one thing.  I believe Graham still recommends "U" bolts for the bow and stern.  I do not know why but I am sure he has his reasons.  I believe the "U" bolts are usually mounted vertically on the stern as well as the bow.

 

I believe your plan looks good and also that I think it will work with "U" bolts.

 

dale

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Thank you gentlemen for your insight and advice,

 

Lke you MikeT I will more than likely measure 20 times and hopefully be as precise as Mr. Lotus. :)

My friend and I have been discussing this potential endeavour and yes finances are an issue in that a build allows you time to shoulder the costs

incurred as opposed to finding the funds for an upfront purchase, I could always finance but I prefer to keep the bank at arms length. A wise man once said

that the borrower is a slave to the lender and in my view I'd like to keep slavery abolished! Hence the desire for a build, the fun and satifaction of D.I.Y.ing,

the ability to shoulder the cost over time, and a longing to get back on the water.

My friend and I have been doing some research via google and youtube and we have one question for now regarding this build. We are averse to using so much wood

as we have seen boats here that have suffered from serious Duck Ant (Termite) infestation here in Jamaica. Not on a wide basis but we have seen them none the less,

these boats being regular fiber over ply. Sure the boats may have been sitting idle and unattended for long periods but as we say down here "prevention bettah den cure!!" :)

We took notice on youtube of a process where the builder was using a semi rigid type of styrofoam sheeting over the ribbing instead of ply and then doing the fiberglass process.

We have started to do some digging and it appears that this same sheeting is actually manufactured here and is possibly cheaper than marine ply.

 

I would really appreciate your thoughts and expertise on this. Would the use of styrofoam compromise hull strength and integrity? Or will it be just as strong, lighter and hence more fuel efficient. We endeavour to be cost effective in all that we do however my friend who is also in fabrication and I put quality and safety above thrift.

 

Thanks in advance for your comments. I may not be on until January, that being the case may I wish you all a Merry Christmas and a Prosperous New Year.

 

Bless up!

CJB

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